whitetiger

knowing how ATs work in general, i wouldnt just replace the tail piece and send it. the trans should be checked over for other damage. the energy dispersion could have gone anywhere in that case.

make sure that your boost control systems are not compromised. check the WG/BPV and BCS and associated vacuum lines. you dont need and AFR gauge, just a OBD2 scan tool monitoring the front O2 senor since it is a wide-band sensor. How are you monitoring boost? do you have a mechanical gauge or are you reading a PID?

the size in question vs the OE setup. there may be both fender and spring perch clearance issues on the oe front strut

what's rim offset?

its not horrible, and for what its worth, red does not mean bad. if i were you, id try to get the left more negative to match the right side up front. id be more concerned with the rear. you need to get your thrust angle to 0.000 and you should get the whiteline KCA399 kit to help you even out the camber in the rear. the philosophy should be even on both sides, especially in the rear.

1. IIRC the front struts are not compatible, only the rears work. 2. i would not lower the car at all on OE struts, or any other strut for that matter that was not designed for increased spring rates or limited suspension travel. 3. this fixation with using 3rd gen struts is unwarranted if you are buying new aftermarket units. just buy KYBs listed for the 4th gen.

no OE strut is good enough for an aftermarket spring, and since the 4th gen has aftermarket konis and bilstein shocks available for its platform, why bother with 3rd gen shocks? even the KYB-GR2s the are available will probably be better than an OE shock(though i would still not put crappy tein lowering springs on them).

Why dont you read the manual and actually find out what a 30k service includes. Then maybe you can make an informed decision.

yeah that tuner sounds suspect unless they give you a reason.

the next thread will be concern over the HVAC set at 75 degrees while blowing 74.5 degrees.

buy the one with the best compression/leak down and oil analysis test results along with a turbo shaft play test.

all tires vary slightly in circumference, and change as they wear. a 1 mph difference is not worth being concerned over. the fact that it was as precise as it was with your OE tires was probably luck of the draw.

https://www.thedrive.com/news/31403/this-ferrari-badged-saturn-sky-is-one-of-the-most-depressing-cars-weve-seen-in-2019

3mm isnt a big deal. the CV jounts have more plunge allowances that that. id just bolt it all up with the shock out and see if in the range of suspension travel the CV joints reach their limits before you start taking metal off load bearing components.

thats what happens when the world limbo champ has 1 too many.

it will fit if the FD is the 4.11

buy new, and get the 2.4T

you should do the resister for good measure. its not like its expensive.

+1 to finding a new tuner

you don't have a charging issue, you have a draw issue. definitley get the optima battery and a Capacitor, or even 2. maybe wire your setup for 4 ohms as well.

sounds like you need a capacitor for your system, not an alternator.. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-57S8w76VrIs/learn/car-what-is-a-capacitor-faq.html

I'd go for the Denso. Rock auto also lists Bosch, which is good too.

OE replacement or exhaust shop repair for your leaks. rockauto.com has OE style replacement mufflers for under $100. KYB GR-2 for the struts, or you can get a full assembly brand new on rockauto.com from Monroe or FCS which includes springs and top mounts all fully assembled. they are about $100 per corner.

24hrs of le donk.

and there in lies the problem. what level of performance do you really want? As of late, the new top extreme performance 200TW dry weather king is the Yokohama A052, followed closely by the Bridgestone RE-71r and the BFgoodridge Rivals 1.5-S. After that you have the dunlop zIII as mentioned, along with hankook RS4 and the yokohama AD08, and a couple others not mentioned. All of these tires sacrifice tread wear for max traction, sometimes to the point where they may only last a couple track days of about 50 autox runs on a heavy camber challenged car. a good compromise is the Michelin pilot super sport if you want more longevity and rain traction. R888r's are terrible on the street, so unless you are buying 2 sets(in that case you may as well get hoosier R7's) stick with a good extreme performance tire(or Max performance). as mentioned above, the ZIII's sacrifice a little grip compared to the A052, but they will last longer.