markc0220k

this is the number. it's wired, i searched the number and couldn't trace where it's from..

how soon do you need it and where do you live? i just disassembled my stock exh.

i thought it was just hammer out as ppl/youtube suggested. but half way i realised there was a inner pin, so i removed the mount(?) in order to have mroe space to remove the inner pin. then i hammer the main spring pin again and its still persisting there

how did you hammer the pin out? from underneath? i mean..just hammer?? i'd tried but the pin seemed didn't move a bit. is this the pin in the pic (just make sure )

have you check your battery and its terminals? weak/old battery and rusty terminals may little sensitive to cold..

reason i compared my spec B with miata, because miata's chasis inherently is much softer than the legacy, but yet when my legacy approached to a corner (diff track, MSR houston), the initial turn-in somehow there was little lag between the front wheel and the rear wheel. Unlikely legacy, miata reacted as a single one piece during cornering. sorry it was the last pic of my miata...

i could understand this part.. but i'd personally driven two same gen of miatas. One with less chasis-support (only a hotdog bar/single diagonl) with a set of ps2 tires and the other miata with 10pt cage and set of regular all season tires (the owner let me tried before putting his slicks on). When approached to 1~1.1g(i had a g tech recorded) corner, the one with ps2 didn't give me enough confidence to accelarate early right after apex. but the miata with cage i could almost predict the whole body movement when i started applying the gas padel right at the apex. back to my spec b. yea, if i went back to the same track, the same corner would becomes no-brain, easy pass thru. but how the chasis would it be reacted? i don't know. but i'm sure the chasis wouldn't give me same "feeling" as my miata gave me! maybe i'm still green (rookie)... thts why i came up an idea to tighten the chasis, thanks

i could undetrstand blanket for track day since you would drain the engine oil by the end of the day before oil getting cool down and becomes sticky. But how about daily driving? would blanket bad (heat) for the engine oil from daily drive? i searched and found many good reviews on how blanket keep heat on the turbine and away from the compressor and rest of parts under the hood. But i didn't see anyone talk about the oil? mark

i'm from south texas and i got a call from subaru couple days ago. on the phone the lady asked me which dealer i want to go, it will take only 2hrs. i said my car is still "in the air" in my garage. then she still wanted to schedule me to one of dealers where nearby my home. i said i really don't know when i could get it back on the road, i'm still waiting for my supervisor to approve my vacation (to fix my car) ...

i have few parts (axle bushing/suspension/shifter bushing/TBE) are about to install soon, waiting for the vacation approved from my supervisor . Popped up an idea to add some tightness on the chasis as well, but which subframe (?) brace shall i start from? there are tons of diff bars and braces they aint cheap (comparing with those for my miata). i had miata and had learnt drifting abit when i was young. from my understanding the "braces" should add from the weakest points first, otherwise it'll speeding up ageing of the chasis. but i couldnt see anyone has mention it on the forum. Well, some suggested to upgrade few mounts (trans/engine) and pitch stop. but i'm not sure if that would weaken other parts of the chasis. anyone has any idea, please? mark

so what did the dealer say? i had 09 legacy and 15 forester, they both have exact same issue like yours. they all worked just fine until a morning i tried to unlocked my forester, its key fob did nothing. tried the spare one next day, same! So, i put new batteries in all three keys yesterday, then found found my legacy's battery is dead (1.42v!). So i recharged the legacy car battery, now it's fine. And i thought the battery in forester is weak too. But reading is 12.41v. im charging it anyway and see what's happen tonite. i searched over the internet and found no answer. most ppl suggested to replace a new battery in the keyfob (i did) and check the battery connection (i did), check car's battery (12.41v) and may interference around (i did at work where is about 20+mins away from home, still not work)! The car alarm works fine too ( i locked from inside driver's side door, closed the door, then open the door with the key, its alarm went off, and with the key i could ignite the engine.

ok, thanks rhino.. just placed the order.

thanks Rhino, ... just to confirm, inner = next to differential; outer = behind the brake, right? sorry for my stupidity!

need a clarify before place my order: 1, Subaru PN: 28396A020 (blue) or 2, Subaru PN: 28397AG000 (red) as the topic, which one is the replacement boot that located next to the front differential (not the boot behind the brake)? beside, left and right are the same parts? i need both for driver and psgr side , thanks.

no, well..beside, my skill, they should be rebuildable.. still searching/learning tricks to get it done. (will see if i could take some pics.. the boot has little openwound other than that ..they work fine sicne 2~3yrs ago i found it started leaking grease )

thanks Shawn, that's exactly what i'm searching these few days. some of ptj boot for 6MT are only 07, 08 and 09, , Genuine Subaru also has similar info for the parts (its for for 07-09), and your pn is for 06? thats why i'm little confused. coz pretty much at the time i find out the boot is not for mine, the package is already opened and wont be able to return. thanks again

yea, that's what i'm planning too.

ok. ..but same quality/durability?

thanks for remind me Choco! Spent a whole morning to learn how to rebuild the cv boots.. yes, the job is little dirty, but the stock shaft itself is much reliable/trouble free! So where can i find those rebuild kit? i searched and found there are two diffrerent lenght but same diameter?! thanks

Is this 06 spec B axle also fit on 09 spec B? are left and right side the same? they are so hard to find for specfically 09 Spec B. i need both driver/pgr sides. pretty much will need to order and fix them soon. beside, any tips of installation would help please! thanks, mark

ok, i think i'm narrowing down to three options: a. RCE tarmac zero, but didn't find anywhere available for 2009 lgt b. RCE black + Bilstein B6 (or lower strut, B8?) .. but i found RCE Black drops both front and rear 20mm c. Swift + Bilstein B6? but still Swift street are 0.8" both front and rear. meaning like RCE black which lower both front/rear but yet butts saggy? yes, i had another post and asked for pink springs, but it was so hard to find anywhere. btw, anyone know stock Spec B springs rate? found someone mention that stock Spec B are Front - wire12.9mm/winds 4.5 and rear - 11.8mm/6.625. but how to convert to kg/mm or lbs? need to see how far 280lbs and 350lbs from stock. thanks

ok, i think i'm narrowing down to three options: a. RCE tarmac zero, but didn't find anywhere available for 2009 lgt b. RCE black + Bilstein B6 (or lower strut, B8?) .. but i found RCE Black drops both front and rear 20mm c. Swift + Bilstein B6? but still Swift street are 0.8" both front and rear. meaning like RCE black which lower both front/rear but yet butts saggy? thanks

If so, all i need is a fakra female-to-female cable like this one, right?

oh, is it what he means?? (sorry, stole his pic.. )

Thanks for searching for me, i also read this walkthru last nite, but one thing i'm still confused is.. 1. i understand the part "plug the wire that came with your reciever into that (the pink socket?) " , but then "and the other end in to the Satellite receiver" ??