markc0220k

mine burnt 1/2 to 3/4qt of oil at around 2200~2500miles too, so i fill it up then do oil change after 3300~3500 (depend on oils color, no more than 4k miles). thinking of get it rebuilt after 150k (now it's 120k) too. omg, it was sitting in garage for a yr

sorry, was a bit rush watching the video before heading to work .. and yes, after watching a whole video plus their and , thats a good design, why not many ppl talked about this (maybe i didn't spend much time enough to search here?) on both nasioc and here lgt? why subaru didn't make such tiny simple part for their entire products? ok, now i have another question, would this reverse cooling and AOS compatible/conflict? thanks

way too complicated for me to understand

reason? did you fix it? what do you mean??

been searched and got no specific answer. As my title posted, from my so limited mechanical knownledge, #4 cylinder retain highest heat than others and fail due to the longest length from stock manifold, and now i'm on stage 1.9:lol: (car is still in the air, waiting for her engine mount, axle boots install, also dp and tbe are still sitting on the ground aside the car) So i'm thinking which parts i should go first, since more than likely the stock header will need to be removed in order to install engine mount, ...elh? or better tmic? or radiator? i heard stock radiator/tmic is good for small turbo and i'm not planning to drop a huge snail in it. if the issue is mainly from the stock uelh, why don't i just simply replace with an elh? but here south of texas, 90F~100F seems quite often in summer. to extend engine life, myshoulder evil keeps telling me to buy an elh. unfortunately on other side my shoulder angel keeps reminding me that i might need some money for later my stock clutch fail. heard many said stock clutch wouldnt last too long after stage2, mine is 120k now, i do track once in awhile but never launch and abuse it. thanks btw, does AOS a must? thinking to install a crawford's before the car back on her duty. edit: reason i came up with such stupid thought is.. i read somewhere here, found a post suggest to extend engine life, elh, aos, bp stock tmic, check oil....are quite important.

planning ahead to replace clutch/flywheel ahead of stage 2 on my 160k clutch. any reliable shops i should go at houston texas area please? how much for labor to expect? thanks..

yeah, i agree with you, i believe the cells (plate?) inside were getting old, so it shorten the battery life. but it just happens on my lgt.. 3 times in a row ?

umm... 4yrs? better-than-average grade i could find in local autozone.. the current one in my car is the 3rd battery, and it died since i havent touch it since a year ago, i just got it reconditioned last month. long time ago, i didn't have any trouble with red top on my old 95' miata (with small amp, single din and little audio upgrade). also i have no problem with my wife's 15 forester (all stock). just don't know why it just happens on my 09 lgt (with small amp and stock headunit).

oh, good point, i just lighted it up once to test last nite, didn't pay attention where it aimed..

coz i have no ideawhat makes my terminal keep buildup white powder(acid?) every summer, then after i did the baking powder trick to clean it.. the o-ring(connector from the light) corrosed, and so did the wire to inline fuse box as well. yes, i did frushing it well with distilled water to remove most acid (color like aqua? teal?) as possible..but still. so my last couple hid just last for 5~6yrs, not because of ballasts or bulbs fail .. it's because the connection. Since i removed the front bumper, restored the whole headlight/lens.. see if there's other route to get the power and stay away from the terminals.

beside, anyone has morimoto projectors installed? somehow i feel the lens is little low compare with the stock. before i sealed it, i'd triple checked all parts, i didn't see anything wrong and i don't think i could upside down the plate. anyone has the same issue? thanks

quick question, where else i could connect hid rely to power(+) beside directly attach to the battery terminal as the manual come with the box? i searched and could only found how ppl do the individual fog light mod from the parking light (very clear instruction, will do it soon too, thanks john's 05 lgt!) thanks, mark

you guys makes me drooling here from south of texas!

same here. anyone knws any good tuners in houston area pls? i foundfew tht has been mention over here and nasioc, but they are already closed (e.g.engine logics, SGP?) . beside i also found few on google but seems no one mention them here. i also emailed to kozmicmotor, but i dont see any reply after couple mails (told them what i have like cobb ap. dp tbe...) thanks

i've been using 35w 4200k hid since first month until now (10yrs)... found my low beam were starting dull and yellowish. at the beginning i thought it was my hid bulbs. but after replaced a new pair. it seemed dont improve much. so i thought those chrome coating was oxidated, so i bought some Flitz and was about to "clean" it up a little. but when i opened the projectors. i found part of the chrome coating was gone. it doesnt seemed likely being burnt and/or abuse (like 55w hid) tho. i know little bit about how burnt reflectors looked like. coz i'd bought cheap projector for my 95 miata long long time ago, i saw it had sign of melt and burnt after few months with high output hella H4 bulbs, so i switched back to hella 7" glass (much heavier) headlights and problem solved. do anyone has similar problem? i know jdm bowl used similar material to make for D2R. but how do mine look so old?? of coz i won't touch them, think nothing i could do to restore the chrome, so new pair of projectors are coming soon. thanks

mine is 09 spec b. on the manuel i found the arch height is front 381mm/rear 365mm. front and rear both's tolerance are +12mm and -24mm. if i lower the front like 22mm,meaning i didn't need to re-alignment afterward at all (toe/camber/caster)? sorry...question is kinda stupid yet need some consents, thanks.

my car has been sittingt in garage for almost 4+mons, battery died. so i slow-charged my battery 3~4wks ago, haven't touch it since then. now it's died again. it's about 1 y/o new. the battery'd been droped below 0.9v, so i had to use another old battery to charge it to 4v in order to charge it with the charger. my question is.. am i supposed to maintain a battery at least certain voltages, otherwise it won't hold charge?? btw, i have a small 50wx4 amps. and hid headlight. but like i said, i haven't turn them on for almost 5mons. thanks

i recently decided to have some new parts for my old 09 spec B. but the "Rreviews" on the header next to the Venders section seems don't work?

wot only at entrance ramps to the freeway.. of coz as this post topic - " the roads are empty... "

oh..i just ordered gen 2 (for 35046) with bearing. and yes, i have other bushing are sitting in garage and waiting for the linkage

thanks Gabo, the one with inner sleeve or without the sleeve? with bearing or without bearing? omg...$130 + $12 shipping?

just realised that i ordered a wrong parts (35047). read the menu and found i actually need 35046. searched and saw Torque Solution has one and seemed very solid. does anyone have this? which one is for 09 spec B? 1. for 2004+ STi 2. for 2006-2020 STi 3. or the original (35046) is more durable? thanks

oh, yes.. that too.. thanks dwmccauley:)

i'm also learning to install a set of coilover. check youtube and there are tons of step by step videos. coilover should be lot more easier and you may not need a compressor to get it done. just unbolt the top mount with a jack holding up the wheel, then slowly lower the jack when all nuts are unbolted, reverse the step for installation. (remember there is a camber bolt attach to the lowest part of the struct, mark it before you start unbolt it) about the turbo, most hardest part is remove the dpipe. beside, i think you probably need something like cobb ap to reprogram ecu. from what i'd been told is.. yes you can install a turbo in your garage, just don't floor the gas padel on the way going to the tuning shop. yes it takes little time as a beginner like me, but it's fun to learn.

recieved group n pitch mount, open the package, then realised it's exact the same as one under the hood. diff is.. the group n has STi on the mount and my old one don't... x.x"