praedet

They are stiffer for turn-in, but the ride hasn't seemed to change much. Might be because I went narrower...

Link from my post...

Check around though. Their price has gone up by $5 a tire. There are cheaper places per tire, but the shipping to CO from those places was bad...

Yeah I realize that a good summer tire will not last too long. I just wish I could get two years full years out of tires. I guess the saying of, I can't have my cake and eat it holds true. I have been soon used to summer performance it is almost hard to go back to an A/S tire.

 

I have been buying tires slightly used and I have realized that it really does not make any sense. Sure initially it cost less, but once I factor in the time and cost of mounting and balancing them it is not really worth it, because the rate in which I replace tires is much higher than if I started with a brand new tire with full tread.

 

I have always loved the BFG KDW tread pattern and they have a tread wear of 300, so that is nice as well. Although, I know that you cannot compare treadwears across different brands I bet they would last at least 20k with no track miles. I liked my Goodyear asymmetrics but they got noisey as hell once they started wearing. I had passengers ask if my diffs were going bad. It was a terrible hum.

 

I guess if I really wanted to be cost effective I could just get a longer lasting A/S tire like the Bridgestone Re960's. People rave about them on here. I just do not know if I want to beat my Prodrives up on mountain roads during the winter......

And they are as good as the Goodyear's as far as I can tell so far...

First, the update

#1) Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 (245/40-17), Ultra (?) Performance Summer Tire, $240 each mounted w/ lifetime free replacement and balancing at Discount Tire, 12K Summer miles to date, and about 50 winter miles...

#2) Colorado

#3) Communting and canyon runs

#4) 60/40 Hwy/City

#5) RE92s, W300s, RS2s,

#6) This is an update to my post from before on these tires: At 12K miles, these were starting to get loud. This could be a two different things, or I have gone soft I have -1.6 degrees of camber in the front w/ 0 toe. They are a good bit wider than my winters. Because I am going to be doing a lot of HIGHWAY miles this summer, I wanted quieter tires. I also have rubbed JUST SLIGHTLY in the rear w/ the 17x8" +46 ET Prodrives when I was fully loaded. I also pay a penalty in gas mileage due to the extra width. So, I got rid of the Goodyears. I will discuss below what I got instead. These were still amazing in the rain, had great dry grip, and looked good in 245s Again, they do pick up rocks more than most tires. They are a better all around tire than any of my previous tires in the summer, and probably almost as good in PURE performance as an RS2 in the same size. They look like they will last another 12K miles. Are they worth the price...

The new tire

#1) Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (225/45ZR17XL 94Y), Ultra High Performance Summer Tire, $165 each shipped and warrantied through Performance Plus Tire and mounted/balancing at Discount Tire, 500 Summer miles to date.

#2) Colorado

#3) Communting and canyon runs

#4) 60/40 Hwy/City

#5) RE92s, W300s, RS2s, F1 GS-D3

#6) All right, so I went searching for a summer tire that needed to 1) Not rub even with a HEAVY load when mounted on the 17x8" +46ET Prodrives. 2) Be quiet on the highway 3) Be good in the rain 4) Possibly help my mileage. Since I have R-compounds for the track, I don't have to have an all-out street tire. Plus, I will be driving about 1700 miles this summer w/ 800+ lbs in the back, so I was willing to sacrifice. So, I went searching around and found these on some other forums. First off, they are a good bit cheaper, per tire, than the Goodyears. Secondly, they are quieter than the Goodyears EVER were. Thirdly, they are narrower (due to the 225 vs. 245 width ) so they will get better gas mileage, make less noise for the exact same tread pattern, and be less likely to rub. Now the good part. So far pushing them to 8/10ths (about the highest I would EVER go on the road) I do not notice any difference between these and the Goodyears. Even though they are narrower, and cheaper, they are just as good IMHO. That includes in the wet So, I REALLY like them I think these are definitely worth it, and from the reading I have done they will last as long, or longer, than the Goodyears

http://www.prolineracks.com/mont-blanc-3700-aero-wing-crossbars.html

Keefe, I am taking your recommendation and getting some Toyo R1R's in 225/40/18 to put on my 18" spec.b stockers. Before I get back out to the track I also need to get my brake situation taken care of.

 

On my previous hpde event, after about the second lap of each session, the car would start to shake violently when braking. There was no pulsating in the pedal, it was mostly felt in the steering wheel, but it shook the car enough for the instructor to be concerned. We checked for flat spots in the tires, checked air pressure, checked the lug nut torque, and everything looked fine. When I came back from lunch, he had someone check over my car and said that it is cause by a soft spot in the rotor and it not heating up uniformly. I took the car to the dealer to have the rotor replaced but they only resurfaced it (there was some very slight warping) and said SOA will not allow them to replace the rotor. They told me the rotors are not designed to withhold track conditions and even if they replaced it, the problem would return (I know this is total bs).

 

Since the problem is not fixed, I am looking at what I should do. I know I need lines, pads and fluid at the least, and I probably want some slotted front rotors, but they need to clear the stockers. I am also considering the wilwood kit with 4-pot front calipers, slotted front and rear rotors, front and rear lines and hp+ pads all around, but I would rather not spend that much if it isn't necessary.

 

My current pads have about 75% life remaining after 8500 miles and 1 track day, and the tires have enough life left in them for probably another 2 track days. With my bad rotor I was letting off the throttle around 120 and coasting down the rest of the straight getting on the brakes early and braking early and light on all the other turns because it was tough fighting the vibrations. This really took a lot of the fun out of things. Any recommendations? I will need to order brakes and tires very shortly, my next track day is 3 weeks from today. I've also gone stage 2 since my last day out which means I will have even more speed to shrub off.

Steve and I will be at Thai Basil at noon. We would love to see anyone who wants to be there...

[ame=http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&q=thai+basil+Colorado+Springs&fb=1&cid=0,0,7289632653659361193&z=16&iwloc=A]Map of Thai Basil[/ame]

Also, I am taking Marie to Monarch this weekend for her first time skiing. Anybody else going to be there so I have someone to ski w/ while she is getting a lesson?

Ted

On Friday, 1-2...

Lunch at noon?

This is simply the bias of the rotor and caliper set-up. There are WAY too many variables to go beyond that for suspension changes too. I eventook out the differences in biasing due to different pads and assumed folks would match them front to rear.

May be I will do a write-up on how to calculate biasing including suspension, with an example using my car, so folks can do it on their own...

You aren't doing this one coming up?

You can rent them from me if that makes you feel better

Anyone want to take my spot on the 28th? I don't know if I will be ready for it.

Also, anyone interested in the R-compounds for the day? Steve?

PS: XP10's seem good for track days?

 

I might just run these for the summer, then do the Hawk pads for winter... what you think?

I personally would not run XP10s on the street. Too much noise, and it takes a little heat to get them happy

Actually, folks, I am going to have to back out of the whole weekend. I have a security detail I have to work this weekend. (Wish I got paid extra to do it )

We can keep it scheduled, or just try and post-pone it...