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Posts posted by praedet
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More random, usually xx.x2 or xx.x8...
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One interesting thing w/ the PLX is every so often (usually in cruise on the HWY) the PLX readout will go from a single decimal place, to 2 decimal place. I don;t know why and it seems random, but always cruise in vacuum...
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I use a craftsman flare nut wrench with vice grips on the outside of it to keep the wrench from flexing...
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The new firmware works great w/ the PLX!
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yes.
I had LC-1 and switched to PLX...
Go with PLX
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Yay for the least made Legacy EVAR!!!!
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I lied, mine does have the sequence problem as well. Other than that, my statement stands. I will probably be selling the PLX Gauge...
Having things set-up to not have the hesitation step would be great for when my wife drives...
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Very happy and initial conclusions are positive. Very easy to install and the PLX SM-AFR seems to be working. Should have some more test time tomorrow. I am not having any of the power-on hiccups noted above...
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I have the analog out for logging currently, so I have a stereo Y plug on the SM-AFR box and that is the terminated box. That Y feeds the upstream boxes and an analog to USB module. When I had the SM-AFR as the upstream module, the various logging programs did not know how to separate out the AFR signal. So I had to run it at the end. I am guessing this will be the same, and for logging and sending the signal to your gauge there will have to be two splitters
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Very Cool, I need to check this out to fix my overhead lights....
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^^^I agree. I got rid of the LC-1 because of all the headaches with it...
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No, they won't...
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You don't need to teach me about fluids engineering, it is what I teachI'm not here to teach people about engineering. I've stated my point, with facts. I've been refuted by people with an incomplete (or nonexistant) understanding of what they are talking about. I'm done.You guys can carry on believing whatever you want. I'll keep myself grounded in the magical world of data and facts.
Point out what is wrong in what I said. Use BL theory, heat transfer theory, or empirical results...
You can't, because by all of the above, I am right
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Which part?From a cooling standpoint, the stock IC is better in EVERYWAY vs. the aftermarket. The thing the aftermarket ones do is allow more flow with less pressure drop. That is about all. Which actually makes for poorer cooling...That actually isn't true.
Let's see. The more you cool, the more your pressure drops.
Stock TMIC, better cooling, higher pressure drop.
Aftermarket TMIC, poor cooling, lower pressure drop.
The reason for this is because the channels in the aftermarket TMIC are larger. That is great for lots of flow, but poor for heat transfer. The large channels mean less pressure drop, and poor cooling due to those channels helps more.
Honestly, the problem is the direction and design of the WRX/LGT TMIC more than anything. The shorter the passage, the better the pressure drop. So with more channels that are shorter, you can make smaller channels with better heat transfer and you get a better overall TMIC. (Lower temps and less pressure drop) But, the turbo layout doesn't allow for that...
The plastic is MUCH better than aluminum for flow and heat if it is reinforced...
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From a cooling standpoint, the stock IC is better in EVERYWAY vs. the aftermarket. The tinhg the aftermarket ones do is allow more flow with less pressure drop. That is about all. Which actually makes for poorer cooling...
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Just so you guys know, you are wrong about the stock sensor...
You are also wrong about how the ECU sees it. Try reading up in the tuning section. The stock sensor is capable (and accurate) below 11.1. The ECU is just set-up not to trust it there. You can have it read below there, but unless you move it to a different location, no wideband will be accurate richer than that in the manifold/uppipe location...
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pm raamaudio on nasioc. He is the owner, Rick, and he will probably gibe you a 5-10% discount. He will also be able to answer that question!
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Black duct Tape also works
I got a set of these used and they didn't have the rubber strips, so they made the high pitch whistling. So, I put a piece of black duct tape over all the exposed channels...
Whistling gone
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Glad you guys had fun!
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Another satisfied customer of Michael's
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Nope, just got to buy the plugs
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I did my first set, sucked , but I found a guy who will do spark plugs AND a compression check for $50 of labor
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Sorry my write-up was to detailed and tedious
I have noticed better performance in inclement weather w/ my 2300K HID fogs, than I had before w/ PIAA Ion Crystals...
But, that is using them as fogs, not driving lights
Vent Boost Gauge (Digital Led Bars & numerics)
in Interior/Audio
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