jmorris6689

I was wrong, my coil packs were connected improperly, easy fix, atleast. I have the shop I took it too heli coiling the oil pan. So no more oil leak. But it fired right up and it did just like it used to, she beat the ground with those cams it sounded amazing, I missed it. But the shop forced air technigies wi have it ready on Monday for me

I've basically given up I'm taking my car to a shop and by taking I mean towing

Yeah I checked my fuel lines and the coil packs are connected properly

I checked all the timing and everything is timed properly, no idea why this thing won't start

I'm pretty sure I'm not but ill be double checking today, when I check to make sure my oil pump and crank are timed together

I fixed the oil leak but, when I tried to start it, all I got was a loud back fire. I have fuel and spark obviously, and all my cams are in time, tomorrow I'm pulling off the crank bolt to check that the crankshaft is in time with the oil pump. Other than a timing issue I don't know what it could be. All my timing components are brand new. Tensioner is holding tension and it's the Kevlar belt. Anyone else have an idea? Also if you are local to the Phoenix area feel free to stop by

Awesome man, thanks for the info!!

Yeah that's what I was thinking and I'm not too positive that the oil pan seals well anyways. It is one of the few items that I did not replace even though the seller of the short block said it was brand new it clearly was not, and the so call professional machine shop that assembled it did a very poor job, which is why I had to rebuild it and replace most of the internals. Not to mention some one had painted the block pink, then silver to cover up the pink and when they painted they did not cover up any oil gallies or coolant passages. This guy basically sold me his $2200 drop in ready piece of crap. No wonder he didn't return calls after it was sold and delivered to me

Fuji bond

http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/jmorris6689/null-43.jpg Any ways here is the oil cooler I just need to fab up some brackets

And the oil pan leaks again, not nearly as bad as the first time but still a steady drip, bit it's not in the same place as before. The guy that sold me this block stripped out about 5 of the oil pan bolt holes so I'm sure this isn't helping. Spend $2200 on a short block that I had to tear apart and rebuild, I was told it was drop in ready. This blows I'm gonna try something else here in a bit hopefully it works out

I'm going to install the new oil cooler today and hopefully start the vehicle for the first time in over a year

Yes it is, I've had it for a few years now still does a great job

http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/jmorris6689/null-40.png http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/jmorris6689/null-41.jpg http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/jmorris6689/null-40.jpg http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/jmorris6689/null-42.jpg

Will do

It's leaking from the bolts on the oil pan that's closest to the transmission. Least my motor mounts are brand new so they came un done easily

Everything is in and ready to go, I was about two seconds from starting it up and found that the oil pan was pouring oil out.

Motor is in, just connecting everything up, and having some issues with the clutch fork installation. Other than that everything is going smoothly

Motor is going in today clutch fork arrived yesterday

Ran into a problem, somewhere between North Carolina and Arizona I've lost my 6 speed clutch release fork and my transmission to engine bolts. I called the dealership and ordered new ones to te tune of $120. But they won't get in till Thursday. So I guess I'm forced to wait until then.

http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/jmorris6689/null-39.jpg http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/jmorris6689/null-38.jpg

Started to get ready for the big drop in day tomorrow! It is STUPID HOT right now so I really only have half a day to work on it (early morning starting at 5:30 and late night) so hopefully I can atleast get the motor in and the trans mission attached. Then Sunday put in the radiator, intercooler, oil cooler, and hook up some form of exhaust. I might leave it open downpipe seein as I have a neighbor that revs the crap out of his old crap Nissan truck with no exhaust litterly everyday for about 30 min. No idea what this guy is doing to it but I know excessive reving of the motor is of no use. Especially at 11 at night. So I think I may need to test mine out open down pipe for a bit to get the point across....

Kinda I guess. I'm a little nervous but at the same time I trust the work I've done

The motor is ready to be dropped into the car I'm gonna work in doing that this weekend. Really sucks that it's going to be 120 outside!

Ok so I have a kinda stupid idea... I'm ready for the insults. But I want to take out my factory seats and install some stock r35 gtr seats. The reason behind it is I love my power leather seats, but they don't hold me in at all. And the gtr seats are way better in the holding department and they are still a nice leather with alcantra and have power seat controls. I know they are heavy but I can shave weight in other places on the car. But does anyone know of another seat that is a nice leather finish that holds you in and possibly has electronic controls. The gtr seat also is heated like mine so that is a plus