abakja1

I have a 2011 LGT and installing my Invidia catted Jpipe. I got all nuts off the jpipe flange and ready to take the jpipe off, but there is something at the top of the jpipe flange stopping me from sliding it off. I even unbolted the midpipe from the catted part of the jpipe to make it easier to manuver if off the turbo. It doesnt seem to be any bolts, and it not any of the O2 sensors hitting anything. I am reading the AVO install thread on the archives as he states that I would have to take 3 of the studs off in order to take the jpipe off, but Im afraid with 60k on the odometer, if I attempt to take the studs off, it will break off into the flange. Im hoping to not need to take off studs , but in reading other install threads it seems like I do. Which 3 studs need to be removed or does it make a difference? Any input and pictures to illustrate will help. Would like to complete this today, as I spent a few hours already trying to take off a rounded nut.

Thread back to life,... Didnt see any writeup or youtube vids on this topic,.. I picked up black with red stiching/lettering wrx seats i think are 08-14’ model year for my 2011 LGT. So the swap jist takes swapping lgt base to wrx seat and slider and use 3ohm resistor for the airbag? Any details appreciated,..

I have a 2011 lgt and getting ready for a protune at the end of the month. Im about to put on an Invidia catted jpipe to bolt up to the q300 catback i have on now. Do i take out the restrictor pill for stage 2 or leave it in for ots stage 2 map until protune? Threads for 15+ WRXs state to remove pill after jpipe install per Cobb website for the AP, but there are no notes to do this for the LGT. I have a grimmspeed 3 port to go on the day before the day of the tune, but until then ill be on the oem boost solenoid and ots stage 2 map. Any input appreciated.

OEM shifter for sale from my 2011 Subaru Legacy GT I replaced with a 2019 WRX short shifter Does not include the Perrin Stop $60 or best offer $20 to ship to you USPS Priority Mail in continental US from Hawaii https://ibb.co/p3wqZrW Thanks Kevin

WRX Short Shifter per Ebay seller. i installed today and it is a world of difference. No more slop or clunky feeling or sound. I had already put in Motul 300 fluid Perrin shifter stop and bushing Should have come like this from the dealership. Ebay had a few bargains,..I missed out on an auction by 5 seconds that ended for selling for $55 including shipping for a new WRX short shifter.

2019 wrx 6 speed shifter assembly off ebay Invidia catted J-pipe JBL GTO 609C 6.5" separates fronts and GTO609 coaxials rears

Bit the bullet and bought an Invidia catted jpipe. Please close thread

They come back,..they always come back,..., Just as i did,,,4 times over,., LGT>STI>FXT>LGT

Change tranny and rear diff fluids with Motul 300 Installed Grimmspeed oem flange adapter to 3” catback exhaust and no more midpipe leaks,.. Still to come, RacerX tmic with Perrin silicone hose,..WRX short shifter (if it ever gets delivered), fix my stereo, PDX Protune,..etc,..etc,..

Try http://www.the12v.com for wiring and other information

Thanks for the response, but the diagram colors still dont match what i see in my doors. I forgot about using a simple light tester to figure out positive and negative wires. I am just concerned about why the wire i see that were attached to the speakers dont match any of the diagrams or weblinks or pdfs if seen thus far. This being a used vehicle is why I am trying to figure out how to rewire everything because the audio sounds terrible about anything over 1/4 power.

Is there a weblink or anyone know what colors the speaker wire codes are for positive and negative? I did a forum and google search and the colors do not match with what I have in my doors and they seem to differ from year to year. I got back into a Subie again (my 4th one) by buying a used 2011 Legacy GT and it came with an aftermarket stereo system. From the factory, the car came with the standard radio, no navigation, with 6 speakers. Tweeters in the front windshield and front and back door speakers. As of today, 08.12.19, I have a new Pioneer Double Din AVH-W4500 NEX. I replaced the old Pioneer Single din radio which had line out to rca outputs to amp. JL Audio 5 Channel amp Focal 6.5" seperates in doors (dont know model number), but look to be in good condition so I may keep these. DLS 226 Classic Series 6.5" in rear doors (I never heard of these, look to be in good condition but will replace with JBL 6.5" from Crutchfield so I can get mounting brackets and be sure its not the passive crossover or speakers causing the problems since they are 8 years old) I just had a stereo shop install a Pioneer double din and rear camera even though I have radio install experience, but am too busy to troubleshoot right now. Problem is, I am getting distortion at higher volume levels where the speaker cuts in and out. Also, the distortion will move from the back driver side, then to the passenger front door side. As a preventative while doing a checkover of the car being used, I put in a 10 ga ground from block to chassis on the driver side as one was missing. Diagnosing the problem: 1. I had a stereo shop install a new Pioneer Double din, steering control, and rear backup camera and the problem still exists as installer did not remove panels to check speaker wiring or to check the amp... I guess this would be an added cost as the above already took 1 1/2 days to do. If you want it done right, you have to do it yourself, thus the reason for this post. 2. I still have a problem with the sound cutting in and out/distortion at higher volume levels so I wanted to check that the wiring and speakers were properly hooked up. 2. I noticed from different threads that I google and forum searched, that the color codes can differ not only from generation to generation, but year to year as none of the colors in the articles matched my car's oem colors. I cannot find a definitive site to state for my 2011 Legacy GT what the colors are, or to match what I have. The Test: 1. Once I got the passenger rear door panel off, I checked the colors of the oem positive and negative wires and they were Green for positive and Dark Brown with white stripe for negative. Several threads confirmed that the Green was positive, but none stated that the Dark brown with stripe was negative. I tested the sound again and positively heard the distortion coming from the driver side rear speaker. http://i68.tinypic.com/iqbsyt.jpg. Knowing that I wanted to eliminate the rear doors as a factor, and that I wanted to redo the install with spacers, put in better speakers, and sound deadening for the doors, I took out both rear speakers. 4. I moved to the front passenger speaker and colors were White with Black Stripe and Blue with Orange stripe. I cannot 100% confirm that the White with Black Stripe is to be Negative, but several websites I visited stated it to be Negative so I left it as is. No threads had a Blue with Orange stripe in the passenger front door. Can anyone confirm if Blue with Orange is the Positive wire. http://i63.tinypic.com/fe3zoz.jpg 4. I checked the front tweeters as well, but cannot tell if distortion is coming from here, but I would like to know what colors are which for both left and right. I have white with black stripe and a red with yellow strip in the passenger side. I didnt find out the colors on the driver side. http://i68.tinypic.com/2ly6dtu.jpg Once I know the color codes, I can move on the the JL Audio 5 channel amp and check the polarity there and ohm load there. The wires for a trunk sub is hooked up, but I have them unconnected at the trunk and terminals crimped. I can do the easy thing and buy all new 6.5' speakers and connect radio wires to the speakers directly to eliminate the amp being the problem, but still would need to know wire colors and it would be a waste for the front Focal seperates and JL Audio Amp. Having a bad sounding stereo sucks especially when have compulsive addictive behavior like me demanding perfection as a trait. Any help appreciated!!

I have changed plugs on my 05 lgt, 05 Sti, 05 forester XT and I lifted the engine for all of them so the socket would clear the frame going in and out. this required listening and taking off the motor mount bolts, radiator support bracket off to provide clearance. On the 2011 lgt, you take the front porch mount nuts off as there are 2 to provide clearance. Some of you can do this without lifting the motor, but for me, I have big hands and little patience. Lifting the motor provides ease of swapping the rear plugs in both sides without the swearing.ir cutting up of your hands. Iike to.out the car.in.stands.too so I don't stress my lower back.

From reading the threads on the topic, if you have the vacuum lines hooked up wrong like in my case with the restrictor pill on the wastegate side, it was the reason i saw only 8 lbs of boost. Without the restrictor pill limiting the amount of air to the wastegate, you will only see 8lbs of boost no matter what gear your in or if you have a cobb tune. So I read in these forums,....

So i figured it out today as i had to change my oil anyways. Just to confirm, there is a restrictor in the hose. Problem was, the vacuum lines were hooked up backwards as the restrictor pill was on the wastegate side. Previous owner or mechanic who put oem boost control back did it incorrectly. I unplugged the hoses and arranged them correctly to how they should be. I Hope this solve the problem as a quick drive around the block revealed the turbo getting on boost now. Just didnt have the room to do a 3rd or 4th gear pull since im in a rural neighborhood. Thanks everyone for the help.

Can you post pic of the hose and restrictor pill?

Boost pressure was 8psi in 2nd or 3rd gear pull. I just felt that the car was underpowered, but i knew it needed maintanence done. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago, and at the time it needed 60k work a s spark plugs and fluids havent been changed yet except of course the engine oil. After i put in new plugs and gapped for turbo, it felt stronger, but nut felt the turbo not coming on as quick or as strong as it should. So, full boost (i flashed AP stage 1 since installing Invidia q300 catback) should be 15 psi peak i believe. Also, i wont see this peak boost unless in 3rd or high gear correct? Also, would peak boost in 1-2nd gear still be 8psi? I am going to change oil today, so ill look to see if I have a restrictor pill or not. Lastly, if a Grimmspeed 3 port was taken off, what should have been put back on or done to go back to oem spec other than the oem bcs and restrictor pill should there be on? Will wait to see what size pill is so I can buy just the pill if its same as wrx/forester or sti. So far, all searches for pill so i can just buy it or the entire vacuum hose and T with the pill for the 2011 lgt has gotten me nowhere. References or info for 5th gen on nasioc and google turns up nothing. No threads or direct discussion on the pill size or oem part number on lgt.com came up either.

I bought a used 2011 LGT that had a grimmspeed ebc before for tuning and previous owner put back stock ebc. Does anyone know the size of the oem restictor pill and where i can get a Replacement? I searched everywhere including this forum and thru subaru parts websites and could not find an answer. Subaru parts website led me to a diagram with the right hose, but when i click on it, it tells me i have to purchase the whole turbo itself. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/49226822/14411AA760.html I feel that the car is not boosting as it should and saw only 8lbs of boost only and read thru the forums thru searches that it could be a missing restrictor pill if owner did not out it back in the hose. Any help appreciated.

Aftermarket catted JPipe,.. Seems like the Nameless one is the only one designed for the 5th gen cars as it was stated and I researched that 15+ WRX Jpipes have different length and bends. Has the Nameless inner diameter pipe in the flange hitting the wastegate flapper issue been resolved? I read that a member had his flapper hitting the inside are at the flange area.

Thanks for all the responses... Kevin

Let me know if you're selling and pricing including shipping to Kaneohe,HI 96744. Best price would be USPS Priority mail I believe. Thanks! Kevin

Let me know if you're selling and.peicingmincluding shipping to Kaneohe,HI 96744. Best price would be USPS Priority mail I beleive

For my 2011 Lgt, i changed spark plugs, cleaned and reoiled KN filter, readjusted air intake pipes and retighened the clamps (pipes were half on), pur in 2 washers and bokts for passenger cooling fan as they were missing. Waiting on oem oil filter and crush washers from Amazon so I can change oil,. Will change rear diff and tranny oil next week. It has 60k miles on it. Have Invidia q300 catback, whiteline rear swaybar and front tower brace to go on next as its sitting in my closet.

I have done a few models of Subarus, my 05 LGT, an 05 STI, 05 Forester XT. I find it easiest to take out the motor mount on the side of the vehicle you're working on as well as the readiator retaining bolts off in order to get the clearance you need. The problem is not getting access to the coilpack and spark plugs, but having enough room to get your spark plug socket and extentions in the galley in and out. Raising the engine just enough makes the whole experience so much easier that cutting up your hand and getting frustrated not being able to get to the plugs. Just be sure to use a block of wood under the oil pan and jack it up slow so as not to damage the pan. Also note, on aged vehicles, be careful with taking off the coilpack as the plastic clip will be brittle and can break off. If so, I used zip ties to hold them in place.

I replaced the o ring with OEM Subaru, bled system, and now swapping out the PS hoses with gates hoses. Saw little cracks in the ends if the hoses as worm gear clamps still produced bubbling in the PS reservoir. Only downside to gates hoses are that they are orange in color and very large. I work days so I can't go to the Subaru dept to pick up parts and the close Saturdays too. Hopefully replacing the hoses does the trick,..if not I'm loss out of words what to do next,,,