abakja1

TYPE OF STUTTER/STUMBLE Increasing throttle MODS Intake: KN Filter Exhaust: gruppve vs headers, sti Uppipe, invidia downpipe, OEM catback Fuel: walbro fuel pump Turbo: PDX turbo, 18g Engine Management:PDX tune by Jarad Tuner and revision of tune(if you don't mind): MAINTENANCE Sensors changed: none Plugs changed:none Coil Packs changed:none OTHER SYMPTOMS Check Engine Light:none Etc: RESULTS What has and hasn't worked for you: If something worked, how long has it been working for: about a year with the stumbling that got progressively worse. Got to work on my friends 05 legacy wagon again as he had an Uppipe leak with turns out the Uppipe broke in half. After replacing it with a 2014 WRX OEM catless Uppipe, and doing some maintenance like replacing driver side axle due to torn CV boot for who knows how long, I went about the stumbling problem. The stumble was really bad from a standstill or rolling start, occurred in reverse speed as well so at first I went about cleaning the KN air filter in the OEM airbos which was filthy. Problem still occurred. So I figure I go check for vacuum leaks and traced it to a heat damaged, crumbling vacuum hose going to the turbo wastegate. Replaced it with a silicone vacuum hose I had laying around in my tool box and stumble went away. On the test drive I did through a Cel or engine light, so I'm going to check it out, but at least stumble is gone. Not sure why the Cel code, as everything was working fine before, but hopefully its something easy to fix and clear.

137 ft/lbs Read it on one of the threads somewhere or you can do a search,..

I replaced my friends driver side axle with a Napa front axle. I removed the strutbolts and marked the position on the camber bolt. I have a Makita electric impact gun, so I didn't need to unstake the axle but and had the driver front jacked up high enough and on a jackstand that I didn't lose any tranny fluid. Hardest part was the time to use my 3/8 extension to bang the axle out of the wheel spline,and when reinstalling banging in the axle with a rubber mallet into the tranny. I used a small craftsman prybar to remove ale from tranny as I couldn't pop it off manually. I did the job under an hour, and would've been faster but I had to remove wheel and tire again as I forgot to stake the wheel but impact gun makes thing go faster and I staked the nut. Hopefully no damage to the seal and no future leaks and that the Napa refurbished axle is a quality part with tight tolerences so no future vibration or leak problems.

I finally had to take off the Kartboy Pitchmount.... I had a Beatrush one too for which I put the KB one on... IT DOES make a difference in how the car shifts more positively into gears...But all the associated noise got irritable after a while, and this is while I got used to it for a couple of weeks now.. Anyways,..is it the LWFW or the clutch itself that cause this noise like a "chipmunk chirping" in my tranny...it's like a high pitch chirping noise and I hear some "dragging" noise too.. Albeit, there is no problem with functionality, but the noise is getting irritable too...I think I should've stuck with Stage I or organic . The upside is how quicker it revs, and the holding power and strength,. but not sure of this noise....Should I go back to the shop I installed it to check everything out? I put on about 4k miles now...

I am interested in the pics Romy... I am having a lot of chatter/squealing problems ever since I got the clutch/LWFW... I took it back to the shop I go to after 1k miles or so and he test drove it. I was told that its the nature of having a LWFW and I do trust them as they are an excellent shop...Performance of the product is great, just during engagement and when coasting/low speeds I hear a lot of chatter...Maybe its just my car and need to get it fixed /looked at again to be sure... Btw..what is the TSK3 kit and how do you determine its a bad master cylinder as I had the SPEC put in at about 25k miles and Im at 28k miles now...

For my DD, I went with the STI front Brembos,.. Been looking to go with STI rear brake setup, but the costs to do the swap wasnt worth it and would be too much trouble to get parts and pay a lot for the adapter for the calipers. I went with RacingBrakes rotor and caliper adapter so that there is much more torque to the oem caliper. Has been a great compliment to the Front Brembos for about <$600 (shipping cost to Hawaii too). I've been happy with the results so far....

More pics of Gold STI's on a OBP.. http://picasaweb.google.com/abakja1/LGTSTIGold?authkey=Gv1sRgCIPyhLrs3OHepAE&feat=directlink

My Submission,...of what I used to run http://i25.tinypic.com/2nv6wqv.jpg http://i32.tinypic.com/ziuibb.jpg

Put about 1500 miles on Stage 2+ and LWFW and the engagement still sucks,..howm many more miles to a smooth engagement? It making me hate my car everytime I drive it in traffic or from a dead stop. It feeling is like the passanger side axle coming out the way the clutch chatters....

WOW!! I'd be scared to try to chirp or spin my tires on 2nd gear shift! But definitely this clutch transfers the power directly.

I went with the Stage II + as I am intending to stop at either a 20G or a FP Green with my WBR FMIC, DW 750CC, full exhaust, AVO CAI, and PDX Protune... I dynoed on stock turbo with the above at 260whp/305TQ Changng my clutch release point smooths things out,..noticed that I dont have to always add a little gas and can sometimes just let the clutch out and the car gets rolling on its own,...looking forward to no chatter in the miles to come,..

Got the Stage II+ and Spec LWFW too,..

So I now got 160miles on my car,...its leaking a little bit of tranny fluid due to needing a new crush washer for the drain plu,...Not knowing the bolt/thread size to buy from hardware shop, I ordered a new bolt and washer from Subaru so I can quickly swap plugs out to avoid loosing too much Redline synthetic. Now, I dont know if this is a problem,... But I;m really noticing in the last 50 miles that 80% of the time starting from a dead stop (from stoplight, traffic, etc) that my car shakes violently and it feels from the right front, but it shakes the whole car and even the shifter. I try to rev it high enough or let the clutch out fast enough to get a smooth takeoff, but the shake is pretty bad. I dont know if it's maybe the AVO CAI vibrating (Not bolted down due to FMIC piping), the WBR FMIC piping, or thinking my passanger CV axle not being locked into the tranny properly, or if this is how bad the car will be till the clutch is broken in yet...Anyone can enlighten me? When I first picked up the car for the 1st 100 miles it wasnt like this, and has been now for the last 7 days... Is this just the "breaking in of the clutch" symptoms? Update,............ Took it to the speed shop for them to test drive and he said that is how grippy kevlar clutch is,...its grabs to the flywheel and suggest that I change my clutch driving style. After that, I was better reassured and just had to release the clutch pedal quicker without as much revs and takeoffs are smoother. I still have to bolt down my AVO CAI bracket as its vibrating still since I had to undo it due to the WBR FMIC Piping being in the way,..

Thanks for your infor qikslvr. Your experiences is worth its weight in gold and Im shopping for a clutch now,.. Are there any issues with the fork and TOB rubbing other than noise if this occurs with oem as you described above? Also, if I go SPEC, should I order oem TOB as I know ACT ones were considered not as reliable/good as oem as well as get a new fork if Im installing new clutch components. Also, has anyone else suffered from manufacturer defects as described above or was it a 1 time issue. Would like to be worry free as I will pay a shop to do the install and try to get everything done right the 1st time around.

I'e never saw the spring before under my hood for the clutch fork,....Has anyone else do the same? Anyone else with experiences as I got to buy something in the next few days and I need something strong enough (clutch, Light FW) that will stand Stage II + and still be driveable. Im liking that I will be able to rev more quickly, but seems the chatter even during coasting and as explained above may cause reliability concerns... Anyone with longer term stories (ie >10k miles) to share...Im looking at getting a SPEC Stage II+ and SPEC Light FW....Would the lighter WRX 06 FW and ACT clutch be a better buy,..How about the specials at Gruppe-S right now as local members are buying their packages ,.. http://www.gruppe-s.com/Subaru/subtrn.htm

Finished mine today and the rear coilpacks are hard to get back IN over the plugs. The trick I found out was to disconnect the wire harness going the the packs as it makes adjusting them much easier,..Also, I could only get a torque wrench on the front 2. Im sure if I had the in2 wrench, it would have been easier,.. I noticed too that the rear driver side coil pack bolt came out all corroded. I wonder if the dealer removed and didnt tighten it down or forgot when I went to them for an idling problem last year. They ended up changing the fuel injector and my problem went a way. In any case, my car pulls much harder and with much more response which has me thinking if this may have been a problem.

I took a look at the coils from under the car today while changing my oil and figure try to do the SP change without taking out the airbox and battery. I started to get the driver front bolt off, but with my large hands (Im a b-ball player and can palm a ball ), I couldnt get the coil pack off the plug,..these dont snap on, so arent they suppossed to fall right off? Was everyone able to get the coil pack off using their fingers as I am afraid to use needle nose pliers on these.. There is only 1 bolt per pack too right? I got stumped at this, so I will try it next weekend. Also, I used a rubber hose big enough to fit inside my socket to help unscrew it. I may got to Sears next week and but a 3/8s finger-type socket adapter to wrench it off.

err,....anybody,..anybody,..Just curious as I got an appt on Friday next week,..

I am at Stage II and have an AP map,..do I need to unmap it to get the reflash/servicing done for the to check the fan ECM? That would cause some problems at the dealership cause if I return my car to oem map, my car would throw a CEL code for the turbo back exhaust I have. Would throw the O2 sensor code for to much free flow,..

Wish there were more vacation pics,..In the DSM community, the vacation pics I had were more like a "guided tour" that showed everything,.. Seems our vacation was cut short,..not much details and to sparse,..the other folder is a good item number lookup,..but not as good as having an oem part lookup like the DSM family had,..

Ahhh,.. whatever happened to my DSM where the plugs sat inside the head and were easily changed from above and took like 10 minutes to do?,.. Sheesh,..sounds just as frustrating as changing the plugs on my 2.5l 4cylinder Ford Ranger,...bad angles, scraped knuckles, some swearing, blood, sweat, tears,..;0

How does the valet and anti-theft map work? For example, how would I "load" either before I leave the car to the valet parking guy or if I go shopping in a mall? I take it then that most people would have to have the AP hooked up and taken with you when you want to use the valet and anti-theft modes all the time too,... sorry,..just trying to understand the concept on the valet and anti-theft modes as I cant see myself telling the valet guy "Wait while I load the Valet mode on my ECU,." as he's waiting to park my car and if Im using the 91 Oct base map,..

Thanks for the link,...I could find this after over 10s of Goggle pages,..Anyone else have links I can compare prices? Im trying to find who can ship to Honolulu, Hawaii the cheapest,...prices of rims are about the same,.. Thanks GranTourer,..I didnt know there were more Rev model wheels either,..