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First one failed during a logging pull. It wouldn’t fire properly under high load. Second one failed while on a spirited back road drive and wouldn’t fire properly under load. Third one failed during removal. The rubber boot tore so I replaced it. The two that had operational issues were both beginning to weld rate at the layered metal block.

I have replaced three of the four over 11.5yr and 54k miles.

My car has been garage kept since 2010 and only has 54k miles. I don’t thinks it’s UV.

I just took mine for a quick spin. The first time it’s been out of the garage since early January. I was disappointed to find how far the Sticky Dash has progressed over the past few months. It will need to be replaced sooner than later.

And some rubber compounds aren’t ethanol stable.

Lol. It took me like 12 years to make a thread. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/codes-build-2009-present-284856.html

Do you have a build thread?

You jack on the tow loop? I always use rear difff.

On the dyno at Six Star?

Are you the new owner? I was just illustrating what this particular car is up against.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/savannah-georgia-285328.html?t=285328

My CM FX300 also made horrible noises when I had a 5spd. Decel was the most prominent.

How is the pan to header clearance?

Damn. Wish I woulda had an EWG fabbed for my holy headers.

My wife drives an A3 2.0t quattro and it’s a lot of fun. I’m sure the rs3 is great. They are really small though. The back seat could be an option.

I used some rubber on my trans to DP. It didn’t help ant the nut eventually vibrated loose and fell out. YMMV. My car has 55k miles and EVERYTHING rattles all the time. Subaru. Love it or leave it.

Apples to oranges.

Part out I’d guess will net around $5-6k Ballpark# 6mt swap - $3k Aluminum suspension bits - $500 Interior - $1k Additional mods - $1k on a good day Wheels - $500 Bits n pieces - ??? Maybe $3k is low but I don’t think it’s all that far off. If you’re selling whole and someone wants to fix it. Sounds like it’ll need at least $1500 in body parts, plus labor, plus paint, and it’s been sitting for 3 years so who knows what else. Please don’t take this as me knocking your idea. I just don’t see it going for all that much. Someone’s gotta pick it up with a flatbread or have it towed away too. Hell if I was closer I’d come take a look myself, but it would cost me too much to get it to western PA.

Probably get like max $3k.

How about some more details on the car. Mileage, color, upgrades, photos? It’s an r-title that’s been wrecked again. If selling as a whole you’re going to get a fraction of what it’s worth parted-out.

Bummer. I’ve never personally seen any ETS products but they have a good reputation. I’m sure they’ll make it right.

Interested to hear them. How does it maintain rumble as an ELH? I have Holy headers and they definitely changed the way my car sounds.

Put the car in reverse when you’re working on it he lockout cable. That will keep it in the open position. If it slips for any reason you can always slide the top portion of the Cobb shifter off and reset the cable. You’ll need to reclock it for your knob but it’s way easier than pissing around under the car.

You don’t have to jack the car up to replace the lockout ring. Not sure I follow you here.

Yes I have it installed on the Cobb 6mt sts and it eliminated the rattle.