ClimberDHexMods

I don't have anything to add, assuming you're asking what these symptoms indicate. Just keep the ATF fresh, and keep driving it, and if anything gets bad, deal with it then.

I've put more energy into learning to make chips than I sounded. I'll definitely get back with you or Frank_ster if I run into a question mark. Have HSS right now, will switch to carbide for convenience and ease. I never know which carbide set to buy, since I've seen almost everything used to make almost anything. Most everything will be in either the 3-jaw or 4-jaw. Would really like to find soft jaws for my Grizzly G0602, haven't even looked into that yet.

Fly to Dallas and crash course me in lathe operation. I may need your help tomorrow, but somehow, right now, I'm actually doing well... ... famous last words.

By the end of the week. I ship them out fairly regularly.

I too have heard good things about it. My only concern about it (same concern with all the boutique fluids, such as Royal Purple, various other "racing" oils) is the lack of widespread use, and lack of consistency. I need a recommendation that always works, always the same, so it's either Amsoil or OEM. If a customer has an issue, it helps a lot to know that if they have fresh fluid at the right fluid level, then it's most likely a mechanical issue that we can start picking away at. You are in a different position, you have the experience to identify a transmission issue.

The waiting list for 08 core exchange same day install option would be many months unless you're one of the earliest guys in line. Sending in your valve body for service would be the way to get it done earlier. But first, let's see how the tests go. The 08 valve body is 100% different parts and architecture. The only commonality (mostly) is the big hunk of spinning parts above it.

If it's Matic J compliant, then it's 5EAT compliant. I have just been using Amsoil because it works well and feels better at room temp. Generally, the trend has been to a) just buy OEM, don't waste time thinking about it when you know it will work, or b) Amsoil ATF, since it's Full Synthetic bling and also just works. I'm local, so message me if you want a second opinion. Driving the car is usually a lot better than internet diagnosis. You might have a vacuum leak, or you might have an aftermarket intake or filter, or it might be normal, or it might be fuel pump buzzing bouncing off the drive-through wall, or it might be...

To answer the other part of your question. There is a big magnet on the inside of the pan, but not on the drain plug. To clean off the magnet, your would need to remove the transmission pan, instructions for removing and re-installing are in the F1 Valve Body sale thread, 1st post. If you wanted to buy a magnetic drain plug, it's M18x1.5, with as little bolt head sticking out as possible (stock is recessed with a hex allen socket).

A word of caution... A few days ago, someone on these boards reminded me of a risk of doing a complete flush all at once: If the fluid is VERY old, then there could be a lot of gunk buildup in the transmission. ATF contains detergents, but this detergent cleaning ability fades over time. Putting all new ATF in a gunky transmission could dislodge all that gunk too quickly, causing the clogging of certain parts of the trans. If you want to be careful to avoid this risk, then BEFORE you do the full flush: Remove one old quart of ATF, and replace with one new quart, then drive around for 100 miles. Then repeat once or twice more, or until you feel confident that you are not going to unleash a wave of gunk deposits. This is being seriously careful; use your judgement. I would not worry about this problem at 30k or even at 60k miles, but at over 100k, consider it.

Good lord... 105k on the same ATF? Dang. Glad you did it. Will give the trans a new lease on life.

I have a couple ideas, but need more information to really be sure. If it bothers you that much, see if a friendly mechanic can drive it while on a lift, and pinpoint where the sound is coming from. The shift from 2-1 could be the sound of the direct clutch or DC solenoid disengaging, or the sound of the HL&R clutch or solenoid engaging, though these are things you shouldn't be able to hear. The shift cable is decoupled from the trans metal with some rubber, IIRC, though not much since you still need that cable connection to have little give. The sound or sensation of going from 1st D to 1st Sport / Manual could be the sound of the Low Coast Brake or solenoid engaging. These are probably the only ones you hear because otherwise road / tire / wind noise would drown out the other gear changes at higher speeds. In any case, the solenoids are driven with PWM current, so there shouldn't be any relays clicking, except the shift lock solenoid... Separately, I never thought about it before, but the shift lock solenoid may be engaging once you're out of 1st gear, so that you can't shift your car from 2nd, 3, 4 or 5th gear into Reverse or Park. Look into whether the sound is exactly the same, and that might be the answer to your question. As the Car Talk guys say, I like this answer. How many miles are on the current ATF? Do you normally drive with the windows down when you hear these things? If everything works fine and the fluid is fresh (<30,000 miles) then I wouldn't worry about it, and just give yourself a pat on the back from having such a keen ear to your car's idiosyncrasies.

Running close to 4 quarts out each cycle instead of 2, solves the problem, and then you don't have to slide further under the car.

Assuming you're not going to be the one performing the rebuild, your rebuilder of choice can order from a performance catalog and get what he needs, at a much lower price. Red Eagle by Alto is good, and some shops claim to be able to get Borg Warner frictions / steels for the 5EAT / RE5R05A, which are the best. You would want to talk with your rebuilder beforehand, and see if he is willing to order high performance label frictions / steels where available in the trans. Some just use a 'Master Rebuild Kit' off the shelf. Now to be realistic, I would worry much less about the brand of clutches / steels, and MUCH more about making sure your installer is the kind of guy / type of shop that will nail the clutch pack tolerances dead on. This is where you can go wrong. Unless you end up with some off-brand crappy rebuild kit, you're going to be fine (if you have an upgraded valve body), as long as the tolerances are all within spec, even on the tight side of within spec.

That kit is overpriced. You don't need anything fancy for that power level, except a valve body upgrade.

Have you pulled the transmission dipstick to check the ATF against a white paper towel? See if it's still cherry red. You're buying yourself more time when letting the shift complete before getting back on the gas. As far as I can tell, doing such at 75% gas instead of 100% throttle, makes little difference. The reality is at 100k miles you're closer to the end of your transmission lifespan than the beginning. No matter what you do, it will wear out a tiny bit more each time you drive it. I suggest you enjoy it, and know that a rebuild will be in your future. It may be at 120k, it may be at 180k, but no matter how you do it, clutch packs are wear parts, and Stage 2 is simply going to speed up the wear. Sport mode produces a better shift (in nearly all regards including transmission wear). So if you're going to drive aggressively definitely keep it in manual or sport. I really like to keep it in manual mode in one gear when I know the trans would get into a cycle of up-down-up-down-up-down, such as in commuting traffic. I do this with all my cars. I also like to keep it in 2nd when doing my around town cold-warmup. Less shifts = less wear. Kind of like how the best way to extend brake pad / rotor life is to drive such that you use the brakes rarely. Just don't forget the whole point of life is to be happy, and if driving aggressively brings some amount of joy to your life, then just do it. Other than that, fresh fluid is your best friend.

What power modifications?

Link to these cats please? I hate running catless. If nothing else, it gives you away when 5-0 is following you and entering your plate number in his laptop. Once he smells you, it doesn't matter how clean your record is; you're probably getting pulled over.

Yes I am shamefully slow, though still moving in a positive direction. I have made more progress getting everything re-setup in the past month than I did in the previous 6. It's something. I know, proof will be in the end result.

You could just have a separate lever / switch board next to the regular stick, which would become active once the lever is in D.

Dear G-d that is awesome. Wish the 5EAT only had two shift solenoids.

What controller did you use on the Grand Prix?

The stock shifts begin to ramp up slowly, which prolongs the perceived delay between button push and feeling it shift. Still irritating compared to those Lamborghini or GT-R videos, but nothing's perfect.

I'm confused, I wrote 3/8" three places... ?

8.5 quarts is all it took... nice... did you go through the gears few seconds each? Yup same end result either way, pan gets emptied of dirty fluid, filled with clean, a couple times. My method simply cuts down processes from 2 (pan and line) to 1 (line only). FWIW I've done it both ways, and on one stupid car could only do the pan method because the lines were either crimped or used special release fitting that I felt might crack. That took a lot longer, more wasteful, but in the end got the fluid all fresh.

Crossposting, enough of you have asked about doing a DIY 5EAT ATF Flush, that I slapped together this walkthrough. If it doesn't make sense to you after reading my WHOLE post and going through the links, then don't do it. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-5eat-atf-flush-197248.html?p=4180890#post4180890