ClimberDHexMods

Great work!!! In addition to my notes about this in the other thread: Send your steels and that new shaft out to cryo. It will help a lot. Again, also check your planet (pinion) gears during bushing installation. I bet at least one is damaged, more likely all 4. Again, I would replace those two. Purely as coincidence, I'm making 3 more sets of these 5-gear center diff sets, and one has already been sold to a gentleman who likes to drive a certain way that breaks multiple center diffs. They're cryo treated and REM ISF treated (microfinished). Helps a lot.

I have a bunch, but better to get new, and send it out for metalurgical treatments. I can help with that. You probably also have damaged or weakened center diff pinion (planet) gears. Inspect and probably wise to replace those too. The first??? :lol::lol::lol::lol: I sell these (upgraded) center diff gear sets routinely! Those teeth on that gear shaft are the first last and only thing to break mechanically in this trans. Sorry yours is broken, that's a bummer.

Great job! Replace all the steels that have those hotspots. Replace any frictions that don't look nearly new. Nothing really surprising here, just some nice wear. This trans got hot, but not as bad as others. 95% chance you don't need to go deeper. Things start to get difficult when you go deeper. Your forward clutch pack is probably fine, and your low coast brake is irrelevant. Put reverse back in, start buying parts

For 2008-2009, I've put the project on the shelf for now, it's filed under someday maybe at the moment No timeline, only that it would coincide with the eventual launching of my website so that I do not have to manually process every order. Heading in that direction of making everything a little easier for people.

You can skip most torx bits. From memory, the nightmare one is the torx holding the front drive pinion shaft to the trans/bellhousing divider section. Just don't take that off at all if you can avoid it. You don't need to touch the low coast brake. It's pointless and was removed altogether in 2008. You can inspect reverse if you want since it's not the end of the world to access it, but if you're certain it's fine then don't bother touching it at all. \ You will certainly find nice burning and overheating in some or all of: Front brake High Low Reverse clutch Direct clutch Input clutch (all the above is strictly off of memory; the key thing is to open up every clutch pack until you get to reverse, and you'll then know where you stand.)

Let's talk over PM (just sent one), I'd like to warranty swap yours and see what's going on with it when I get it Edit: Though if that 205k mileage is all on the original transmission without a trans rebuild, and the F1 was installed at 145k miles then I'm amazed you only have one annoying shift and one brewing undesirable shift. Well done on getting great mileage out of it. I'm not aware of a modified 5EAT going over 200k without some rough shifting somewhere in its operation. You would have to have a very well built transmission and tight temperature management to stick the 200k landing flawlessly. Still, I'm open to the possibility that something could be going on with the valve body. I'm happy to work with you to figure out exactly what it is.

This one came in a couple days ago: J, Here's my answer to your questions: I have not yet gotten my hands on an IPT kit to measure and see what it's comprised of, so I cannot comment on it. I am not going to bother with Precision International, and I can't speak to it either. Same on down the line. First principles: There are only a few companies who manufacture quality frictions, so most of the options you're seeing are the same frictions private labeled. Steels are a little different. People can scan and laser cut any thickness of steel plate very easily, so you will see a little more variation in that department. But not a lot more. Even at 300-350whp you do not need anything more than stock 5EAT quality. The most important thing you can do to make your rebuild a success is to nail your clutch pack tolerances. That's why we were custom machining all the apply pistons, so the tolerances would be literally perfect in 3D space, which is to say the apply pistons are not perfectly flat and do not apply perfectly straight in stock form, so we resolved that. All credit goes to Adam on this, he was impressive about his attention to detail, which is sorely lacking in the industry today. You don't need to worry about this as much, but you should be aware of it when measuring everything. If you get varying results on the same stack, that's why. What will you need to replace? That depends what's burned. On yours, almost everything until you get to reverse. The #1 issue with these transmission in stock form is heat. They produce a ton of it, and stock cooling is severely lacking in a hot climate. You 100% should install an air cooler for your transmission fluid. Anyways, so you'll find a lot of steels will have heat spots, and a lot of frictions will be burned. Replace those. The only reason you would likely keep stock frictions or steels in the main forward gear ratio shift packs is to manipulate your final tolerances, which again, are the key difference between success and having to do it again. What we each did was shop for frictions and steels irrelevant of a kit. Some Alto (some Red Eagle, some Raybestos, whatever made the most sense on a pack by pack basis. Same for steels (Adam custom cut some, but you shouldn't need to). You will find that there are thickness variations between each friction and steel from each manufacturer, and that makes all the difference. It wasn't just that we wanted a perfect tolerance result, it was that we HAD to use a mix of parts from different manufacturers in order to get a good result, as there was no one good major manufacturer that made everything better than the next guy. Actually, Borg Warner really is better than everyone, but good luck finding their frictions for the 5EAT. Sorry, you wanted a simple answer, and I'm here telling you that you might find you're trading simple for a quality end result. Don't do that. Start with simple, but immediately change your approach if you find a clutch pack having a crappy tolerance. About tolerances, there are a bunch of different ones out there. With the 5EAT, your best bet is to go on the tight end of the tighter spec ranges that you find. A bunch of the tolerances are obnoxiously loose. You will almost certainly not need to go any deeper than reverse. Don't touch reverse or beneath it the forward clutch pack, as those do not get worn out (reverse for obvious reasons, forward for the non obvious reason that it's always locked up so it doesn't have any realistic way of wearing out). Lucas transmission fix takes a LONG time to work. Like a month. It's not going to significantly fix your transmission (most of the time), but it is wonderful for buying some time so you are less likely to get stuck somewhere as the car's condition worsens. Most recently, it made a slip in my girlfriend's 6T45 go away completely, but it took 3 weeks for that to finally happen. I do not or want any compensation unless I'm selling you something (which I did, thank you ). My information is free to you. But I would enjoy seeing pictures of whatever you think is an interesting part of your build, and of course I would love to see pictures of all the worn out parts you find in the clutch packs. Please let me know when you have some good photos! Thank you, David

I have seen a lot of success just ducting air from the front fog light area into the wheel well. This does wonders for cooling rotors. Doesn't quite have that race car flare to it though compared to ducting directly through the heat shield.

This is basically it. I have seen a few manufacturers overstep their bounds with their list of compatible transmissions, but in general if a quality company says their fluid will work, then it most likely will. If not, you will notice. There is no one perfect transmission fluid, or engine oil for that matter. People have their favorites that have worked well, and I have mine. Subaru HP is solid choice. Amsoil can be a bit more finicky, but it can also handle temperature better on both extremes, so I love it for that (many people with a Subaru live in cold winter climates, and then the 5EAT runs excessively hot in the summer unless you're cooling it properly with an extra cooler setup added on. Don't forget about Mobil 1 Full Synthetic ATF, also has worked well and is available locally, though I can't talk to it in as much detail having not daily driven it. Separately, I have a suspicion that the Subaru ATF cooling system was designed around earlier and 4th gen base model transmission models that make a lot less heat. Then the 5EAT model never received any new or extra cooling provisions. Shame.

PM replied It varies. This and last week I have been slammed with another big car repair project (not for the LGT) on top of a full work schedule. But usually I am able to reschedule things to accommodate a customer's order. When it's needed, it's often needed right then, and I understand that and can usually accommodate within reason.

It's very doable, but the amount of labor, attention to detail, and headache required to do it to OEM quality of installation is 11 out of 10. You're basically stripping the majority of the car down to metal. It's a really big deal. I've gone that far before for other purposes, and I wouldn't want to ever do it again.

Yes I am

There isn't a fluid level sensor on the 5EAT. When you check the fluid level is it under all the following conditions? 1) Car has been driven around for a while, all warmed up and through all the gears, has not since been shut off, 2) On flat level surface, 3) Engine is running. Is the fluid fresh (bright red)? Has it been changed recently? What exact fluid is in there? Is this fluid you added, or did someone else do it?

Your intuition is correct. The TCU prevents the shift from 4th to 5th until the ATF reaches a certain temperature. So either it's not warm enough 'yet', or it's not able to get warm enough in your conditions. Highways are excellent for cooling fluid. Probably wouldn't be a problem at low speed city driving. I got some pushback a while ago for warning people of over-cooling of the ATF (my caution was based solely on real-world feedback such as yours). The solution then and now is an external bypass thermostat, or another change to your cooling circuit (some people block or unloop aftermarket ATF coolers during the winter). Changing the flow order can also help. What is your ATF cooling setup?

Can you elaborate on "it won't rev"? Does it feel like the gas pedal is limp and disconnected when your left foot is also on the brake? What happens when you give it a lot more gas?

Correct

That is not bad, but really couldn't tell much since engine noise became hard to hear after you got into 2nd. Can you rerecord (safely) with windows up and no other noise than engine (to the extent possible)?

I received this question in PM, so thought I would post the long answer to it here as well for now. Happy to try to help out where I can with this: So you put a 2006 OBXT 5EAT into a 2005 OBXT 5EAT? And the only CEL P0700 code you have is P0735? P0735 directs to P0736 troubleshooting, DTC P0736 REVERSE INCORRECT RATIO DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Vehicle speed sensor, turbine speed sensor or control valve malfunction. -Control valve = the valve body (probably not your problem). -Turbine speed sensor = black plastic sensor behind the ATF dipstick tube, driver side, EASILY crushed or damaged during 5EAT removal or install, so you may want to visually confirm that is in proper condition. -Vehicle Speed Sensor: This is a bit of a complicated one, but this is likely your problem. ECU VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) data actually comes from the 4 ABS wheel sensors, processed in the ABS computer. So if you accidentally damage one of those sensors, you could get P07XX codes. However, there is a sensor (actually two but disregard the 2nd one since it's internal and the same from 2005-2007) on the outside of the tail housing that is referred to as a VSS sensor (actually picks up rear drive shaft speed, almost the same thing). 2005 5EATs have two-piece tail housings. 2006-2007 have one-piece tail housings. During this tail housing switch, the external VSS sensor moved. To make it worse, I suspect the rear VSS sensor's trigger wheel is also different from 2005-2006, either in location on the output shaft or/and in teeth or geometry. I have not actually confirmed this, despite having a pretty decent collection of these tail housings (the center diffs like to blow up when used in specific ways). Now this is where it gets interesting. IF you know what you're doing and have the means, you could hypothetically swap over your 2005 tail housing and center diff internals (specifically the part(s) by the pickups) and harness, and run the 2006 5EAT that way. However, I know of one person who tried this and eventually gave up after failing to get it to work. Being that he had a mechanic do the work, I never received great accountable feedback on the exact details of that experiment, just high level summary. I suspect that if you had a worn out clutch pack or a blockage or blown seal of some sort, you would have a different CEL code (or more likely several codes). It's possible that could be it, but on this tiny bit of information I just don't get that feeling. I feel like you would have said something about it if it felt like more than just an unhappy TCU missing a single input. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thank you, David

That Exocet is a personal dream of mine. Number plate and all.

Specifically, 2009 non-turbo stalls 1900-2300 rpm, where turbo stalls 2300-3200. That is a massive difference.

Thank you for the write-up. I really like receiving feedback. Some people do not say much, and I am not good about pushing for information. With the vehicle all warmed up from a normal drive, still running and parked on level ground, the dipstick should not read above the Hot Max level. If it does (only by a little) you probably don't need to mess with it. If it's by more than a little, I recommend pulling the plug very slowly and carefully to drain half a quart or whatever it takes to get you around the middle level of the dipstick. It's better for the whole transmission in the long run.

Please email me your map, and please note vehicle year, model. hex mods at g mail dot com. (spelled out to avoid internet crawlers) Please log RPM, MPH, Requested Torque, Throttle Plate Position, Total Ignition Timing, as I'm curious to see what the log says. I only need within a few seconds before and after. Thank you.

That is interesting. Thank you for letting me know about this issue. Basically, the Input Clutch needs a little more line pressure at the lowest level. There might be an easy ECU tuning fix for that. I need some time to mess with it, and that is the one thing I do not have right now. But keep in touch and I'll see about smoothing that out for you. What tuning software do you use?

I just replied to all PMs (have been working double time in the shop to wrap up a big project, so have been mostly offline). You should have reply now. 08s are to be handled in the future. TBD. As always, it doesn't exist until it exists, so don't bet the farm on it. I've been a poor judge of predicting the future so far.

That is good to know! Will add a note about your Tribeca experience. I have often wondered what one-size-fits-most fluids these discount chains are using. If it's black, then it shouldn't be in the 5EAT.