ClimberDHexMods

We do not have the vendor information up yet. I will message you with it.

Ah, I see where the teeth broke. That is not what I was envisioning in my head Thank you for the report!

It lives. FWD/AWD clutch lockup switch active yet?

I do not know about the Level 10 product offerings, but I do know enough about off the shelf rebuild kits to say that you should really have a good understanding of tolerances if you are going to refresh your own clutch packs. I've teamed up with KoukiS14 so that between the two of us we can have all aspects of the 5EAT covered. He is pre-releasing plug & play clutch pack and rebuild kits. The clutch packs are precisely toleranced on not one but two axes. They are far superior in a ways that neither stock or regular rebuild kits can match. Thank you both. We're excited to get these 5EAT solutions behind such powerful engines.

Send me a PM

Sounds like you hit rpm fuel cut. This happens sometimes when you modify. Solution is to have a proper tune, made specifically for your car, not an off-the-shelf.

That comes down to the driver. Try both. Manual 1 puts the transmission into a max lockup mode. It's nice, but not really necessary. Again, try both, see what you like better, or what is faster. If you modify enough to move the power band, then your results between the two modes will vary. If you are not well tuned up to and including fuel cut, then messing with high rpm shifting is not the best idea. Yes. Shift button lag or shift duration time? The first won't change, and the second will be a bit faster in sport mode / manual mode over drive mode. I don't know what you mean. If you're doing this kind of thing, then hurting the car is probably not personally a big concern. But that is a debate for a different thread, not here

Manual Mode 1st Gear, gas and brake pedals to the floor (hold both for no longer than a couple seconds, preferably as short as possible to get the rpm you want). Then, release brake pedal. There are other tricks to have the TMIC cool at the time of the launch (which helps a lot with the launch). Launching is the easiest way to break driveline bits, so do so at your own risk.

I don't think the Accessport does TCU resets. It only interfaces with the ECU, unless something changed recently, which isn't likely coming from Cobb.

If this doesn't work, then at least your trans will have some good fluid to use to actuate everything, which is better grounds for a TCU reset. First do the DIY ATF Flush though, then TCU reset if needed. Let us know how you make out.

A couple members have done their own Transgo kit install for the 05, and I posted a walkthrough showing how to do it. Checkout my vendor sale page for details on the F1 VB. I just got a Cayenne Turbo S out of my garage, it needed work. Now at the hospital with my girlfriend. If it's not one thing, it's another.

He can spool it up at the top of 3rd, then be able to shift into 4th and 5th, full boost. In that situation (regarding 4th and 5th) it's more of a fair comparison. However, I agree with you that you can make a lot more torque than he can at highway speeds in 4th and 5th, so that could be it.

Power record most likely still goes to FRKevin, who has F1 VB, built transmission from IPT, a GT40r on E85, and no slipping. Just visited Frank_ster again couple days ago; car is awesome!

I like to think that being a massive dick to someone does that person and you zero benefit. Dicks just attracts more dicks. Don't confuse being nice with being informative. In this example, I told him why this is not the right place, and how better to go about searching for the information he wants. If I would have been a dick, I don't see how that would have added anything to the equation. Correct me if I am missing something.

Should be a very similar process on this and almost any AT car, just lines being in a different place. About the fluid, I do not know what the right fluid is for the 4eat. Definitely research that more thoroughly before you go with something other than oem. The universal fluids, aren't. For example, I find Amsoil ATF to NOT work well in many of the applications for which it says it is fine. However, damn does it work well in the 5eat.

I appreciate your enthusiasm in trying to get this figured out, and asking for help. However, please allow me to make some small but important notes, not so much relevant to you but to your question per this thread. This does not belong in this thread for a number of reasons: 1) You don't have a 5EAT. You have a 4EAT. 2) The crank pulley has almost nothing to do with the 5EAT. 3) This thread is in the transmission forum. 4) The crowd of people watching this thread might not be as well versed in crank pulleys as people watching a crank pulley thread. 5) The information on Subaru crank pulleys is already out there and can be found easily via Google, and some dedicated time put towards sifting through the 95% uneducated blabber posts to get to the 5% intelligent/useful posts. Such information may be hosted on other sites than legacygt.com. Thank you though for your question, and please let me know if I can help in a different way.

I had a similar issue on my own car, 3rd was slipping and causing a major chatter. Pulled apart trans to find it was fried. I do not know whether this is your issue or not. But it would be wise to first confirm your trans fluid is fresh and at the correct hot running level before doing much else. Perhaps a TCU reset as well. I wouldn't engine brake a Subaru too much (in place of using the brake pedal, except maybe when coasting down a long mountain road). In theory, it should not be a problem. In reality, I have felt the trans shift weird afterwards. That's as simple as I can say it; a more complicated answer would shed no additional light. Glad you got it sorted out. Guessing the tuner changed your throttle maps, as a much easier way to restrict airflow to your engine for new motor breakin. Clever, but yes, advisable to not mess with throttle open angle tables, and instead advise the driver to go easy on the gas pedal, switch manually to wastegate spring pressure boost, etc.

link?

You certainly can, and its fine to do so, but I still stand my ground, because the first few quarts from the pan will be mixed with the rest of the system's old fluid, and should be disregarded in the flush process regardless. Also note the drain plug does a bad job of removing all fluid from the pan (which is why after draining the pan you can still get splashed with old ATF when then removing the pan), and the VB fluid pickup sits low in the pan (similar depth). No matter how you do it, the indicator to stop the cycling is when the fluid coming out of the cooler line is the same as what you put in, meaning that regardless of whatever point the mixing happened (just in system, or in pan and in system), the mixed fluid should also be expelled, since you're already there. One of those things where the theory is superior, yes, but the reality says it just does not matter, so why bother unless you're already under there draining the oil anyways, and if to the operator it's more about the journey than the destination, which is fine.

You may still have to get on your back under the car to easily get to the line, unless you can reach it from above (maybe you can, you can certainly see many cooler lines from above). Big difference between reaching 6" under the car for a cooler line, vs reaching all the way to the middle of the underbody.

What ECU spoofer are you going to use???

_karu_, you're over-complicating and unnecessarily questioning a very simple thing. A pan drain and fill only removes and replaces what's in the pan. This is not what we are talking about. This 'DIY Flush' method pumps the old fluid from the pan, through the transmission system, and some of that fluid goes through the cooler line loop. The pan is still getting drained, but through the system and out the cooler hose. So there is ZERO point in touching the pan drain plug, unless you really like to do extra steps that add no value, such as crawling under the car when you do not need to. The ONLY point of fluid output can be the cooling loop, which will get out almost all old ATF after a few cycles of emptying and filling. Now I know how rao feels, people can't leave 'well enough' alone.

back in the gas tank IIRC, which would show average--not peak (rail)--temp. Would get you pretty close though if one has kept their fuel system return-style (series, parallel, not quad-port distribution block like many aftermarket rail vendors do. Also, was thinking how easy it would be to decouple the rails (aftermarket) from the engine, with either a low-heat-conductivity-material bracket, or just some decoupling washers made of silicone or urethane or nylon or whatever. T1 advertised this on their rails for the GT-R, though they did not address the bolts still coupling the rails to the engine...

People have written me saying the same thing. It's doing something...

Simplest way to make this? Maybe a dual pass solid aluminum heat exchanger, instead put A/C fittings on one of the passes, and wrap the whole thing in some sort of insulation? Or... just run an air-cooled fuel cooler, and be happy. Practically speaking, lots of us with aftermarket fuel systems (and even with stock lines) can just plumb in a temp sensor and see what's actually happening before and after the rails.