ClimberDHexMods

I've flirted with the idea of putting this on the return line, but probably would not make a tangible difference other than adding complexity to the engine bay, and another point of failure [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Flex---lite-4130-Compact-Cooler/dp/B000CNHG7A/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1361997224&sr=1-10&keywords=flex-a-lite+cooler]http://www.amazon.com/Flex---lite-4130-Compact-Cooler/dp/B000CNHG7A/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1361997224&sr=1-10&keywords=flex-a-lite+cooler[/ame]

Well a pump running at 100% will produce more heat (along the lines of evaporative emissions). To what extent, I have no idea, but you guys can probably log fuel temperature before / after if you are interested in the practical points of this.

Please tell us the full story of what happened, and in which gear it was done Yup, that's what it has cost each person to fix.

I'm no genius, just a guy with an interest in transmissions I can generally say the same thing to anyone, narrows it down to either trans is fine, or trans is worn: Check the fluid level on level ground with engine all warmed up AFTER a drive, and engine still running. If the level is correct, and your fluid is clean, then you have already done what you can. Next step is either to get a rebuild, or live with it. The severity of the symptoms is the deciding factor: If the driver (you) can't tolerate it anymore, then time to open up or swap out the trans.

^^^ Looking good! I remember when I use to use those pads. Best thing other than perhaps my oiled metal table. Looks like you have all the right tools to make it a snap, just need to bolt on your inhibitor (shift position) slider switch.

I don't fully remember the background on your car (it's not you, it's that I get hundreds of PMs a month), and can't remember all the details of each person's car troubles. Do you have a thread with all the details in one place, concise? That is the best way to get the best answer, other than searching (which is almost always better than asking for answers, but takes oodles more time).

There are some techniques you can do to get by with a lot of torque and a stock 5EAT temporarily, but they are annoying. It's one of those things where if you have to ask, it's much safer to not play with fire. In most things, better to build the foundation first, then build the house.

I wouldn't worry about it.

It sounds like the mechanic may have launched your car after the tune. Little did he know, you can't do that on a stock center diff. Many people have, but none have with either cryo treatment or the bushings installed (and people have tried). Issue does not appear to be the gears themselves, though they end up paying when torque deforms the assembly and things stop meshing nicely.

I can't say with any accuracy how well worth it it has been. I don't know how many hours, days, months of my life have been wasted doing arguably unnecessary detail finish things; I prefer not to think about it Hopefully it's added up to have been worth it. Oh well.

Haha... My (past) free jobs helping out friends have always been the same quality as my most expensive paid work. All the data I've read on the subject says that it doesn't matter what you pay someone; in the end some people are internally driven to do their tasks exceptionally well, and some people not so much. Heck, I used a torque wrench last time I changed a tire on a friend's old car, for free. The rest of the car may fall apart, but that wheel, hub, rotor, studs, bearing, will not be compromised due to anything I did.

If it's shifting fine and holding power in all gears, then nothing is wrong I hosted one of those before, but not anymore. I no longer work for free. Can't justify it when I still have a work backlog on my own car. Happy to be an option for servicing your car, or seeing if someone else wants to host an install day. You stripped your sun gear and planet gears in your center diff. Is that the extent of the damage? Normal. It hits hard in the morning, then is fine once the car is warmed up. I like the idea of interfering with the temp sensors, as an upgrade option. The temp sensor scaling is aggressive on the 5EAT. It hits very hard in the morning, then totally fine once warmed up. Modified valve body characteristic.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_6/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_1/ What did you destroy? Small chance I can sell you some replacement parts I have in stock. Alternatively, you can order the individual gears you destroyed, which could possibly be cheaper than the price you are working with now.

Do it again in 30k. I bought funnels that fit from either Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. Not the most easy size to find, but a lot better than having it not go in, and making a mess.

Ugh, this reminds me of why there needs to be an FAQ. The problem is not the flush. The problem is what type of flush, and what chemicals are used. Old ATF condition is also a factor. Ideally, you only want to do a flush that uses ATF. You want that flush to be powered by the transmission's internal pump, not the pump on the flush machine. You want the flush to flow in the direction of normal fluid flow, not reverse. Sometimes a flush procedure at certain shops breaks one of these ideal situations. Add in the risk of ATF being seriously old: If you ATF is black and full of deposits, then the flush can risk dislodging a lot of gunk all at once, thus clogging some critical pathway in the transmission. So the key is to be as gentle and normal with ATF flushing as you can. People have had good luck with the BG. At the same time, I know several people on here who lost 5EAT function shortly after a flush (unknown machine). I wrote a walkthrough (a basic one) so people can see how to do a flush at home, which is in my opinion about as good a process as you are ever going to get. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-5eat-atf-flush-197248.html?p=4180890 One member here actually argued with me about it being too risky and that it's safer on an old transmission to just let the fluid degrade until the transmission completely dies. I told him to replace the fluid one quart at a time, and drive 100 miles between quart swaps. Repeat a few times, then flush everything.

Both you guys have engine problems, which should not be solved in this transmission thread. Start a thread or read existing ones under the search words of your symptoms. People are usually willing to help out a lot. But these most likely have nothing to do with the transmission, so please post them in the correct section. It helps us all keep everything straight.

Could be your ECU pulling timing, possibly due to learned knock correction. Log the event, and post up in a new thread, and post in here the link to the new thread if you like. If you reset the ECU, then that would clear the learned timing, and the problem would go away, at least at first. This could be indicative of a bigger issue, so best to log first, in my opinion.

Sounds like an engine issue, unless you detect slipping. Is it the same rpm points in every gear?

A) Crush Washer - You can re-use it as long as it is cleaned and will / does still form a good seal when re-used. B) Temperature - Does not matter, unless it's hot enough to burn yourself (should go without saying, but I've heard of people forgetting the fact these things can sit at 200*F easy.

A top notch rebuild kit may be coming to market in the not-too-distant future. But that's not a guarantee or a promise, so if it is released, it will be released when it is released

I have resolved to not release any more details until I am ready to release the product. Otherwise I'll never hear the end of people wanting updates on the most trivial advances in development. That alone would take many hours to keep up with, which is time better spent in the garage That would be fine, except the wait on an F1 core is always just a few days. If you do decide you want to send me your valve body for an upgrade, please let me know in advance so I can send you a prepared Hex shipping box, which will allow you to drop-in the valve body, and then we can both be assured it will not get damaged in shipping. The hex shipping box alleviates all pressure points, so solenoid caps and wire joints do not get pressed upon. I'm just getting started I am disillusioned about the world of management consulting (my prior career endeavor), and despite my time in business school, I am strangely at peace working on cars. I'd say take your time, never rush modifying a car.

New buyers of the F1, please keep in touch. I always like to hear how the car is accepting the new, very aggressive settings.

I bet it's all just that one safety solenoid in the shifter assembly right under your right hand, which is why you can hear it in the cabin. That's cool to know when it engages / disengages. That is another important consideration for going standalone TCU, which I had not previously considered. My car has been too loud for too long, to notice such noises. You could probably open up the assembly and put some sound deadener near it to make it quiet, but that's probably never going to be high on the to-do list.

that's more a power / tuning question than a 5EAT technical question. And it's been answered a lot. Google will reveal many many instances of Stage 2 LGTs. There is more info on making power at stage 2 than you could ever need or want, on this forum.

PVC ring caps are a great idea. I was wondering if there was an easier way to do it. My machinist friend here also heavily emphasized finishing with emery cloth to get down to 0.0005, but that's more for bushings than pistons.