gathermewool

Yeah I filled the front diff to the top of the level plug at the time so shouldn't be any issues there. Used the factory manuals to do the work - torque to spec etc.

Where was the check plug you used located?

The cat happened to be replaced along with the header, since both are one piece. The REASON for the recall is that the header may have been installed at the factory under tension, possibly resulting in the flex accordion to fail.

I hope your issue is resolved!

I like those a lot!

Dislike your current wheels!

Have you checked for a loose gas filler cap? It's a common cause of the light show you describe. Always check the easy (and seemingly obvious) things first.

I haven't had this happen on my Legacy, but recall this happening on our FXT and seeing something like, "check gas cap" on the MFD. Am I misremembering? Wouldn't something similar or a DTC "large evap leak" be present along with the CEL?

Here's a picture of our rear struts assembly:

https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/a/Subaru_2015_Legacy-Premium-Sedan-wEyeSight/65156941__6464498/REAR-SHOCK-ABSORBER/B15-211-01.html

All four struts will have mounts. Only the front has a bearing, to allow for steering.

I would also replace all four mounts. Does Group N make mounts for our Legacy's? Might be worth inquiring with a vendor to see if it's worth the money for the slight upgrade in stiffness.

I replaced the struts (KYB-GR2 - came with new bellows) on my previous '97 LGT with around 180k miles IIRC and re-used the springs. Doing this turned that car from a $3,500 beater car into a car that handled like brand-new.

Check Crutchfield.com for model numbers and see what's available locally if Crutchfield doesn't ship to your location.

I'm not willing to pay what it takes to get great sound and retain the backup camera...

1. What are the codes for the check engine light and why didn't your mechanic check that first???

2. Have the CVT checked out

Which trim?

What’s the warranty situation?

I think that it’s worth being careful with this, as welding or cutting important parts can do even more harm than before. Believe me, because I know what I'm talking about. Last fall, I had some problems with the car, which I still can’t explain, but which I managed to solve myself. Fortunately, I found a good guide on the Internet that showed me exactly where the problem was and how to fix it. https://prowelderguide.com/ here you can find many answers to those questions that you have been looking for for more than a month.

What a no-content, self-congratulating first post. Very odd.

Get a brake fluid tester and check it before throwing money down the drain.

My brake fluid was still good in my Legacy at 75k miles. I traded the car in before I hit 80k so I couldn’t test it again. My current car just past 60k. It’s fine.

My daughter’s car is 13 years old and I just replaced her brakes (dang drums) at 95k and her fluid was fine.

What were you testing for and where from? Moisture or copper; reservoir or zirc fitting?

Regardless, your experience is not my experience. I’ve checked two vehicles with drum brakes, one with < 60k miles, and both had black gunk effluent and then very dark fluid until the flush fluid from the master cylinder finally reached each zirc fitting.

I would bet my house AGAINST any brake fluid 13 years old coming even close to the new spec. Brake fluid is simply too cheap to risk going that long.

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If the OP has the funds, a brake fluid flush should be on the list. Just make sure the flush is from the reservoir in the engine compartment down through the caliper zirc fittings. I asked one dealer, who said that all this service consisted of for them was siphoning out and replacing the fluid in the reservoir only; no zirc bleeding.

I would also add in transmission and differential fluid CHANGE if you have the money.

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I recommend replacing the PCV valve. I just did so at 55k miles and it was pretty gunked up. It would not rattle, even after a quick douche of brake cleaner.

Are these supposed to be strong enough to self-open at some point or just assist?

I recently replaced the hood strut in my Forester, not because it had fully failed, but because it was sticking and resulting in too much friction about halfway up. Having only one, I figured it was best to replace before a seal was compromised.

OP, there're are two different sounds, as far as I'm concerned:

1. The boxer sound (not exclusive to Subaru). You can research ways to find what you want, be it guys on here who are modified or those who have gone the custom route.

2. The UEL header rumble. This used to be the signature Subie sound, but has become more the sound of inefficiency since about 5+ years ago. I wouldn't consider an UELH at all.

Having an FB25 myself I wouldn't consider ANY engine mods. Waste of time. A louder exhaust would just make me wish I had a fast car and any increase in NVH (drone) would make me swap back to stock soon after.

If you want more noise, do what N/A four-banger owners for decades have been doing - get a big ol' intake!!!

so, that is why the standard STi is stuck at 310HP?

No, ring lands.

Honestly, I have no idea why Subaru never went with ELH's and a twin-scroll in the STI after 2015. I'm not saying they should have used the WRX's unit, but something more appropriate for its flagship model.

With that said, prices haven't crept up much over the years, so there's that...

See the 2015 Legacy/Outback Owners Manual, page 2-36: Initialization of Power Window.

 

There is also a recently-issued TSB (07-152-19R) that describes new/revised window switches for all MY 2012-2019 Legacys and Outbacks. Switch replacement will be covered under the 3/36 warranty or a Subaru Added Security plan, else you will have to pay out of pocket.

I might bring that up the next time my Legacy is in for warranty work (Gold Plus extended warranty).

I tried to get the dealer to replace my head-unit due to visible squiggly touch-screen lines, even in dim light, but they said it was normal. Maybe another dealer will just swap it out....along with performing this TSB

Never heard of that before. Let us know when you figure out what the solution is.

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I replaced the PCV valve on my '15 FB25 today @ ~55k. It was full of oil and the internal weren't moving very much, so I got a new one from my local Subie dealership.

@ 55k miles in my Legacy FB25 it was pretty gunked up. I could hear the valve internals moving a little, but the new valve is night and day difference. That is NOT to say that the old valve was not working, but who is to say if it was working as well as it should or whether it would have gunked up enough to cause a problem any time soon.

Part Number: 11810AA131

Dealer Cost: $22

Background: I'm replacing the starter in my '14 FXT, which requires removing the intercooler. I figured while I was in there I'd pull and check the PCV valve. I could barely hear any movement in the valve, even after soaking it overnight in carb cleaner.

The Legacy's PCV valve was MUCH easier to remove!

From center to center: 3 5/8” apart

Hole: 1/4” by a little less than 1/4”. Hmmm

What will you use the OEM tweeters for? I’m not sure how much shipping will be, but how about $15 shipped? I’d give them to you if you were nearby.

Nice did you try flipping them around or putting it on the other side? Maybe they were made specifically for right or left..

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Yep, first thing I tried. The tweeters are identical, not location (ie, left or right) specific. When turned 180 it doesn’t fit as well and NONE of the four locations lines up (2 original tapped holes and two square unused holes).

The tweeters are snug with just the one screw in, so I may just add double sided tape and the one screw and call it good to go.

I installed the Kicker-made Subaru upgrade tweeters and they sound great, all things considered!

The electrical connection is plug-and-play.

Only issue: only one of the mounting holes lined up. There appears to be a second set of SQUARE holes just forward of the stock tapped holes, but the square holes are too large for the stock screws. Unless they’re just random, it would need clips similar to the white ones that mount door speakers to work.

I have pictures in my BITOG thread, if anyone is interested:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5385408#Post5385408