gathermewool
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Posts posted by gathermewool
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Prior to draining oil level was very close to bottom dot.
Not terrible. It reminds me that I should check my oil a little more frequently. I'm lucky that I don't need to add between intervals, but it's always down max half a quart. That could change.
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What did the dipstick read recently or just prior to draining?
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I've typically found most oil pans to be...beneath the engine. I've actually also noticed that most transmission drain pans are beneath the transmission. Weird.
Life-time fluid? What's your definition of a lifetime???
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I was barely able to get half of mine off using vice grips, though the grease oozing from the boot (which could NOT be cleaned well enough) provided for a precarious grip. I was close to breaking out the Drexel, too!
I ended up going with the cheapest replacement option at the time, which was OE with a coupon. OE is good enough for an XV bar…I’m not a fan of pillow-ball links (i.e., bootless).
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Try a Odyssey Battery next time.. There a Great Battery.. Completely Dry Cell and lots of power..
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Dry cell???
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About $1900. ohh I'm still crying [emoji21][emoji21]
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Jesus Christ! You got ripped off, man! Did they use OE?
That makes sense then usually after a "while" then the power comes to what it was before the oil change. And I'm starting to dislike the Red Optima batteries now. It's what I currently have and I'm not impressed.Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
It does NOT make sense. There's no way ANY place changing the oil would disconnect the battery for funzies.
I'll definitely let the dealer know next time not to disconnect the battery. Actually I'm going to take it to a separate dealer and test that theory, but that's going to be a while from now.Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
They'll just look at you with a blank stare, most likely. They may also just agree, not knowing what TF you're talking about...
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Yeah . I drive my car hard though and I have over 110K miles on mine so it was just time. Gosh that was an expensive bill sheesh, but my car drives so much better now so I’m absolutely grateful.
How much?
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My front axles have officially kicked the bucket. Car is at the dealership getting worked on but they gave me the 2021 Outback has a loaner...man that is one fun wagon to drive.
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The front right axle on my FXT is going. Wtf is wrong with Subaru CV shafts these days???
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Just cleaned up my 15' 3.6r getting ready for the 2nd Car Show of the year.. Glad to be back on the road and seeing old friends..
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Looking good. I like those wheels much better than the deep dishes you used to run.
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Dude don't be that guy
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What guy, the guy who KEEPS IT REAL!?
Seriously, that drop and those wheels look like what I thought was cool back in the 90s, when I was ten...
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Installed jbl stadiums today , replacing factory radio for a big boy Kenwood soon I’ll post some pics [emoji1690]
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Good job, bud! How do they sound with the stock HU? I had to turn the bass all the way down with my new speakers, but they sound much better than the stockers at high bass levels. All other frequencies are better as well.
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anybody see this?
https://shop.namelessperformance.com/copy-of-axleback-exhaust-2015-2017-legacy-2-5i/
who wants buy it first
Go for it and post up a sound clip!!! For $450 it had better be one helluva muffler.
I had the 4” on my 08 STI and they sounded awful.
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With all due respect, that drop, those 90’s-looking wheels and those stock wheel arch gaps look ghetto as hell! Do you actually drive like that?
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they're not hard to do, i looked at mine and was ready to do it but ended up trading the car in at 73k miles.
That does sound easy!!!
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Looks like Car Show season might happen in 2021 so I pulled thebtrugger and installed my custom Rear Rotors from Cquence Brakes.[ATTACH]290874[/ATTACH][ATTACH]290875[/ATTACH]
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Looks good
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Here it is,
You might need to get M12x1.25 nuts with larger washers, there are several YouTube videos demonstrating its usage. In a few of them it doesn't work, but mostly it does, mostly...
That works similar to the hub slide puller, in that it bolts to the lug studs. Yea, I pulled the hub in half doing that! No worky!
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You had me right up to the part where you mentioned "flushes"
Do you really mean "flush" and not just fluid change ???
I won't be "flushing" ... but I will be doing a drain and fill.
They let the engine flush the fluid, as far as I know. I was apprehensive at first, but the people at the service dept seemed sure it was the way to go.
I’ll likely opt for a drain and fill next time.
Also, I didn’t go in looking for a flush. It just seemed like an option that wasn’t that much more expensive.
Finally, when I said the first dealer didn’t have the means to perform the flush I meant that they didn’t have the means or want to service the fluid, period. They simply said it’s not serviceable or not needed unless there’s a problem.
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I haven't done one yet, but there is a tool called the Hub Buster that I'm going to buy, bolts to the hub and let's you whack it with a sledge hammer until it comes off... might need an assignment after, though
I first tried a slide pull. It pulled alright - the bearing out of the hub assembly!!!
I then put all four fasteners in a few turns loose, then banged on each from the inside with a punch and a 5# sledge. Didn’t budge one little bit over several days of too trying!
If you live where salt lives, good luck to you!
Got a link to that buster?
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I will be doing likewise.
I take my vehicle to the dealer for all services, and I have had several conversations with different service writers regarding CVT fluid changes. They all toed the Subaru "party line" regarding "sealed unit" and "lifetime fluid."
It wasn't until my last service visit that I encountered a different service writer who was younger than the previous ones, and who apparently came from a BMW background. He openly suggested that a CVT fluid change would be beneficial at about the 50-60 mile mark ( 100,000kms here) going on my driving habits (no towing and being a conservative driver) When I reach that mileage, if this particular guy is still there (and hasn't been sacked for going against company policy) I'll get the CVT fluid change done there ... if he is gone, I will get it done at an indie that I have already previously sussed out, and who specialises in Subie servicing.
I had to switch dealerships, because the first, one I've been using for a decade, stated that they don't do CVT flushes and don't even have the means to. The second one, not too much farther from my current residence of three or so years, had no problem doing the job.
It was expensive, but worth it to me, considering I plan on keeping this thing for as long as it's (reasonably) serviceable...
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Paid a lot more than you guys for the rear driver's side bearing in my 14 FXT. I got most of the bearing off myself, but not the outer hub assembly. It was so rusted in there, nothing I did would make it budge. I had a local indie bust it out and install the new one. If I have to do another bearing I'll let them charge me book and eat the rest. Total waste of my time trying to get it out.
"four bolts and it's out," they said. "SUPER easy to do on Subies," they said....
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How much would an indie charge for this, I wonder? Just the difference in labor cost?
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You might be interested in this from a Subaru expert. At the 13:00 min mark he states that in his opinion, most CVT problems are due to non servicing, and therefore are probably "avoidable" to some extent.
I'm not sure if it's going to help, but I plan to swap the CVT fluid with only Subie fluid every 50k or so.
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What're you putting out of voltage?
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Thanks for sharing that!
What Did You Do To Your 6th Gen Today Thread - Vol 3
in Sixth Generation Legacy (2015 -2019 )
Posted
Oddly enough, I've been VERY lucky with Subies and oil usage. My '06 WRX, '08 STI, and now our '14 FXT burn(ed) no perceptible amount. My second Subaru, a '97 LGT, exhibited a variable amount of consumption, from none to over a quart every 5k miles. As mentioned, my current '15 Legacy 2.5i burns less than half a quart in 6k+ miles.