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gathermewool

I Donated Too
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Posts posted by gathermewool

  1. I usually go to the dealer to change my oil at 5k intervals and I notice around the 4k miles I'm almost a quart low. Been that way since I bought it new.. I'm a 20 year Subaru owner so I know to check the oil now and then..

     

    Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

     

    Oddly enough, I've been VERY lucky with Subies and oil usage. My '06 WRX, '08 STI, and now our '14 FXT burn(ed) no perceptible amount. My second Subaru, a '97 LGT, exhibited a variable amount of consumption, from none to over a quart every 5k miles. As mentioned, my current '15 Legacy 2.5i burns less than half a quart in 6k+ miles.

  2. I was barely able to get half of mine off using vice grips, though the grease oozing from the boot (which could NOT be cleaned well enough) provided for a precarious grip. I was close to breaking out the Drexel, too!

     

    I ended up going with the cheapest replacement option at the time, which was OE with a coupon. OE is good enough for an XV bar…I’m not a fan of pillow-ball links (i.e., bootless).

  3. About $1900. ohh I'm still crying [emoji21][emoji21]

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

     

    Jesus Christ! You got ripped off, man! Did they use OE?

     

     

    That makes sense then usually after a "while" then the power comes to what it was before the oil change. And I'm starting to dislike the Red Optima batteries now. It's what I currently have and I'm not impressed.

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

     

    It does NOT make sense. There's no way ANY place changing the oil would disconnect the battery for funzies.

     

    I'll definitely let the dealer know next time not to disconnect the battery. Actually I'm going to take it to a separate dealer and test that theory, but that's going to be a while from now.

     

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

     

    They'll just look at you with a blank stare, most likely. They may also just agree, not knowing what TF you're talking about...

  4. Here it is,

     

    https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Removal-replaces-Tools-compatible/dp/B0885XWFWG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hub+buster&qid=1616239771&sr=8-3

     

    You might need to get M12x1.25 nuts with larger washers, there are several YouTube videos demonstrating its usage. In a few of them it doesn't work, but mostly it does, mostly...

     

    That works similar to the hub slide puller, in that it bolts to the lug studs. Yea, I pulled the hub in half doing that! No worky!

  5. You had me right up to the part where you mentioned "flushes" :eek:

     

    Do you really mean "flush" and not just fluid change ???

     

    http://mygarageairdrie.ca/services-pricing/maintenance-services/services-that-you-dont-need-transmission-flushes/

     

    I won't be "flushing" ... but I will be doing a drain and fill.

     

    They let the engine flush the fluid, as far as I know. I was apprehensive at first, but the people at the service dept seemed sure it was the way to go.

     

    I’ll likely opt for a drain and fill next time.

     

    Also, I didn’t go in looking for a flush. It just seemed like an option that wasn’t that much more expensive.

     

    Finally, when I said the first dealer didn’t have the means to perform the flush I meant that they didn’t have the means or want to service the fluid, period. They simply said it’s not serviceable or not needed unless there’s a problem.

  6. I haven't done one yet, but there is a tool called the Hub Buster that I'm going to buy, bolts to the hub and let's you whack it with a sledge hammer until it comes off... might need an assignment after, though 😁

     

    I first tried a slide pull. It pulled alright - the bearing out of the hub assembly!!!

     

    I then put all four fasteners in a few turns loose, then banged on each from the inside with a punch and a 5# sledge. Didn’t budge one little bit over several days of too trying!

     

    If you live where salt lives, good luck to you!

     

    Got a link to that buster?

  7. I will be doing likewise.

     

    I take my vehicle to the dealer for all services, and I have had several conversations with different service writers regarding CVT fluid changes. They all toed the Subaru "party line" regarding "sealed unit" and "lifetime fluid."

     

    It wasn't until my last service visit that I encountered a different service writer who was younger than the previous ones, and who apparently came from a BMW background. He openly suggested that a CVT fluid change would be beneficial at about the 50-60 mile mark ( 100,000kms here) going on my driving habits (no towing and being a conservative driver) When I reach that mileage, if this particular guy is still there (and hasn't been sacked for going against company policy) I'll get the CVT fluid change done there ... if he is gone, I will get it done at an indie that I have already previously sussed out, and who specialises in Subie servicing.

     

    I had to switch dealerships, because the first, one I've been using for a decade, stated that they don't do CVT flushes and don't even have the means to. The second one, not too much farther from my current residence of three or so years, had no problem doing the job.

     

    It was expensive, but worth it to me, considering I plan on keeping this thing for as long as it's (reasonably) serviceable...

  8. Paid a lot more than you guys for the rear driver's side bearing in my 14 FXT. I got most of the bearing off myself, but not the outer hub assembly. It was so rusted in there, nothing I did would make it budge. I had a local indie bust it out and install the new one. If I have to do another bearing I'll let them charge me book and eat the rest. Total waste of my time trying to get it out.

     

     

    "four bolts and it's out," they said. "SUPER easy to do on Subies," they said....

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