gathermewool

Even when you go hard on the stock accelerator there’s a little lag too it. With sport+ its a lot less with a lot of acceleration which surprises you but it sure does suck to drive sport+ anywhere but the highway. Big thing will be for me at least is knowing when to start the mode without going into Limp mode on the highway. I do have an extender I use a SyncUP drive which is in the fuse cubby so real easy to unplug from there. I’ll let you all know how it turns out for me especially after disconnecting the battery for a while.

 

 

—————————————————

HPS intake, Nameless Axleback Exhaust, SSD FSB, Cusco RSB, 20mm rear sway bar, Voxx 18” rims, Infinity Kappa system,

More to come...

How is that possible? It’s not changing ECM tables, right? Just a TPS bypass?

How is pedal commanders touchiness different than, say, simply flooring it? Unless this thing can command > 100% requested torque I don’t see the point.

Besides, Subaru throttle response is touchy enough at low speeds. I can’t imagine making it worse!

I'm about to bring my '16 to the dealership where they will gladly charge me $110-$120 diagnostic fee for lookin into this (known) issue.

 

I'll wait to see what they say after already having it checked by my local exhaust shop who confirmed it is cracked at the Manifold Bellows.

 

I see two possible scenarios:

 

A) We have diagnosed your exhaust leak and it will be $2000-$3000 to repair.

We will apply the diagnostic fee towards the repair to help with the cost.

 

B) We have diagnosed your exhaust leak and are pleased to say that there is currently a recall (WUJ-95) that will cover it. While your vin number hasn't been added yet, we have contacted SOA and they have approved for us to proceed as if it were. Your safety is paramount to us, it is dangerous to drive with a known exhaust leak, and we stand behind our product and processes. When is the soonest you can leave the car with us so that we can get is fixed as quickly as possible?

 

Let's see what happens.

Jesus Christ, NO. If your VIN is affected, simply make an appointment, show up (only if they concur you’re on the recall list), and if your VIN is on the list you get a new cat and header. This isn’t freaking rocket surgery folks!

Ah, OK. That makes sense. I must have missed “last car”.

I would take it to an indie shop.

It sounds like you DID find the cause, so...thanks for the heads up in case it happens to one of us.

In all honestly, though, your thread seems more to point out that your dealer's service department is inept and not able to follow through with correct trouble-shooting an obvious DTC code than anything else. Good on you for figuring out it.

I wouldn't waste any time going to the dealer, unless you bought the part from them and can somehow prove that it was the correct fix. This would NOT be worth the headache for me.

I doubt you'll find anyone on this forum who has had a failed axle.

 

 

You may be referring to wheel bearings, which do remain an ongoing issue for some. If so, you'll find some like experiences here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/anyone-wheel-bearing-issuesi-258583.html

I've got a failing axle in my '14 FXT; front right. It clicks rapidly during turns. I'll get around to replacing it someday, if it gets worse. I've got the new CV shaft ready to go in my basement.

Boots on the failing shaft are fine - all of the boots are fine.

Explain the process you used, in detail please.

If you get them back to Normal get some Xpel Clear Bra and put it on the Lights it will keep them from fading..

 

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Or spray clear coat.

I made the mistake of refinishing the lights in my previous '97 LGT and ended up right where you are now, OP. I ended up polishing them monthly with Nufinish to keep the haze down.

Ha !

 

Got my recall notice today , even though Subaru customer relations told me weeks ago that my car wasn't under the recall . Obviously the staggered announcements left the right

hand not knowing what the left hand was doing .

 

FWIW , my car did seem to make a LOT of noise under hard acceleration last week .. ..

 

 

George

Recall does not imply failure. My car was operating normally prior to the recall replacement, as were most vehicles, I'd guess...

Sounds more like they slid into something like a curb on the right side and never reported it.

I wonder if how the frame and front subframe line up.

What were the symptoms for each time the the rack failed?

What about the hub assemblies and end links?

You still haven't answered how many miles and whether this will be the first plug change.

Have you had time to drive after the cat replacement? Are you experiencing any issues now?

If the plugs were already replaced at 60k I'd leave them alone.

Why did you leave Wawa hungry? What about what you posted was worth crying over? Cops? If you’re not doing anything illegal, [forget about] them!

I used to get followed in my previous STI. I usually ignore them unless they’re being anuses. If they’re all up on my bumper, for instance, I usually pull over and let them pass. I don’t need to be baited into speeding or hit when they can’t brake in time during an emergency.

One of the great things about driving a Legacy is that NO ONE, including the cops, even gives me a second look.

o2's are much easier to replace than a CC. I would start there first.

You’re too late to the party. Also, it’s not a very long thread for you to say it’s TL;DR...

So, dealer #1 did the first change and dealer #2 is saying they’re going to void your warranty if dealer #1 botched the job? Unreal!

Good luck to dealer #2, I say! Idiots!

Did the previous owner do the service or did he have it serviced?

Have the dealer drain and refill before the issue worsens.

Less is more.

+1

I’d choose just the lip.

Now I'm second guessing myself. Perhaps the dealer didn't tell me they'd disconnect the brake lines. I do remember though them saying they'd pour in the new fluid and have it flush out the old fluid.

I’m sorry I wasn’t clearer with my sarcasm, bud. I didn’t actually think they’d disconnect the lines - that would be ludicrous!

So, all in all, it sounds like what they’re offering isn’t too far from reasonable. Have you inquired with a local shop how much lower they can do everything for?

The brake lines are disconnected!? WTH kind of flush is that???

A flush is through the caliper vent point.

I've been getting close to the 60k as well and was wondering the same. Based on above comments above, I may push changing the plugs till later. Usually do my own oil change yearly in the fall, think ima push that for the spring as well. barely put on 2k this year.

What KIND of miles are you putting on your vehicle? Infrequent long trips or frequent short trips? If the latter (or even close to it), stick with your annual oil change.

Why was the CVT cracked into?

Why were your coils replaced, not to mention ALL of them?

Stupid question: is one of your wheels slightly bent, unable to be balanced?

When WAS your last balancing?

The price for "Brake Fluid Service" seems suspiciously low. Insist that they tell you exactly what they propose to do. The Warranty & Maintenance Guide specifies a complete brake system flush, right down to the calipers, replacing all the old, possibly water-contaminated fluid in the system with new. The price quoted seems more like a basic "top up the master cylinder reservoir" job.

That was the case with my local dealer, when I asked why it was so cheap.

Also, the diff service seems to be low for a full drain and fill, but too expensive for a simple level check. I’d be curious to know what they do for this service.

I’d also add an ATF/CVT fluid exchange into the mix. I plan to do mine every 50k+ miles for each of my Subies.