SSpeed

I just got this back from Subaru. The passenger airbag inflator for your 1999 Outback is not a Takata product. The inflator is different than the one being recalled and was outsourced to a different supplier. The replacement inflator for your 2005 Legacy is a Takata product. I do not have information on the replacement inflator; but, I would hope that NHTSA has tested and approved this replacement inflator. Your Legacy is affected by two open recalls, campaigns WQR-53 and WQK-47. Recall WQK-47 for the Brake Pipe. You can review details of this recall at http://www.wqk47.service-campaign.com.

Here's a couple of questions I have: 2005 Legacy GT 1999 Outback 1) It's only the passenger airbag in the LGT, is the driver airbag not Takata? How do I know that's safe? Many of the news deaths have been driver airbags. 2) If the replacement is Takata, how can I know that's safe? They haven't been very forthcoming with information. 3) My 1999 isn't on the recall list, but the 2005 wasn't initially either. How do I know that one is not a timebomb?

Good lord you stay the course!!! I would have pulled the motor by now just because it would have annoyed me so terribly. With all the work you've done, don't be scared of pulling the motor, sounds like it would be easy for you. Once you've done it once or twice it can be done literally in about two hours. Once out you can pull the heads and have the valves checked/refreshed and inspect the pistons if need be. If it is a burned valve you could pull the motor, send the heads off to be redone and have it back in the car in very little time. So much better than chasing down a ghost. And while you are at it you could do the things that are so annoying to do while in the car, like changing plugs, changing valve cover gaskets, oil pan, the oil filter o-ring, etc.

I decided to give Berryman's B12 a try and the Outback I put back together. It threw a misfire code the other day with no clear cause. I'd already tried Lucas and Marvel Mystery Oil. This car had sat for years with the previous owner, then burned a valve on cyl 4. I pulled the engine and fixed it all. The Berryman's seems to work well. The idle smoothed out greatly, and I didn't consider it rough before. So far the mileage looks to be great. No misfire codes so far, but the one code I got seemed random, it was the bad mileage that had me wondering. I might drop some Berryman's in to my old 1970s motorcycles and snowmobiles sitting in my garage. The snowmobiles had lead residue in the carbs.

I know that people claim the OEM inlet is best, but that hasn't been what I've found. With the OEM inlet on the 16g I was struggling to hit 19 psi and we had to throw a lot of wastegate at it to get there. With only changing the inlet I'm spiking up to 21psi before the wastegate gets it all back under control. My impression is the non-OEM inlet makes a huge difference.

I updated the thread here with the 08' WRX BPV hose part number. Highly recommended. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/perrin-inlet-install-issue-please-help-172653.html The inlet went on much easier than it came out.

At least the thing went in WAY easier than it came out. Didn't need a tool or anything, just twisted it right on to the turbo. BOV hose kind of sucked, I'm glad I bought the '08 WRX one.

I know this thread is old, but since I'm dealing with the same thing. Perrin inlet is designed for '08+ WRX. BPV hose for '08+ WRX is 14465AA100. The LGT hose is 14465AA070. I'm betting the '08+ WRX hose works beautifully.

Sitting here I'm debating whether it would just be easier to pull the intake manifold? I've done NA Subaru manifolds and they aren't terrible as long as you just disconnect the big engine wiring harness vs all of the little connections. Of course, it's really easy to miss one coolant line...

Took me an hour and half to get the engine out, seriously probably took me two+ hours to get the inlet out. All those clamps and wire connections underneath are terrible to get to. Not to mention, if you need the car same day, buy extra breather and vacuum lines. The rubber turns to hard plastic over time with the combination of oil and heat. One of the rubber breather lines snapped right in half when I tried to remove it.

Finally got around to pulling my valve cover off today. Was a little surprised with what I found, the valve cover surfaces had baked on sludge, up to 1mm thick in spots. The cams and head surfaces were very yellowed, the way you typically see when someone has extended oil changes (which I don't). Is that just from the heat of the uppipe? Did anyone else have that? There were two types of RTV on the head surface, so I guess the previous owner (100k miles ago) must have replaced the valve cover once, it looks like it's been leaking awhile. Despite jacking the car on the right side, an outrageous amount of oil leaked on to the uppipe and header, both wrapped, sort of worried about that.

EL headers, 3" turbo to Y (w/ Vibrant cat and AVO resonator), 2.5" in/out Borla ProXS. [ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=JI9Q7FNqnps[/ame]

Thank you, can you also post the relative or absolute pressure from the ECU with and without?

Ok, got it, what's this electronic supercharger spinning at?

A turbo spins at what, 120k rpm, what is this spinning at? A turbo has blades that start wide and taper inward so that air is compressed, I don't see that in this product. He's seeing 1psi max, according to him, and none at redline. That's not exactly forced induction. I've asked for airflow numbers before and after, but have only seen "they increased". I asked for dynos before and after. Lastly he said that after air filter and tune it's about a 10hp/9tq increase. I mean, heck, that could come from tune and the air filter alone. I know other companies are making electric turbochargers, but that's a fairly casual connection to equate the two. Maybe with hard data we could be mildly convinced, but I see none of that data here.

?? OP, you said the difference is about 10hp, but you added an open filter and a tune for that right? I'm not convinced any of your power is coming from the supercharger. Can you dyno with it on and off in the current setup? Also post airflow logs with it on and off?

Do you have the actual numbers of airflow before and after. Without pressurizing (much) I wonder how airflow is increased unless the stock airbox is a major restriction, which I'm doubtful it is. This is confusing to me, how would the gearing change?

It was cool to see the evolution of the thread, really bummed there was no before and after solid testing though. Effectiveness is unfortunately conjecture at this point. A few questions: Have you put a boost gauge on to see if there is actually any boost? Have you datalogged airflow to see if it actually increased? Can we see a pic of the fins? What is the construction of the fins? Are you concerned that a failure means your engine "eats" supercharger innards?

My pic was for the H6, I didn't notice that. But the ME(H4DOTC)-53 page you reference is what apexi attached in post #54 here. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4989666&postcount=54 I'm not reading that as the full valve cover surface? Help me understand what I'm missing, don't want to do it twice.

Is the service manual wrong then or am I just reading it wrong?

You put it on the entire valve cover? I have this from the service manual? http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/dil222/valvecover.jpg

I'm misunderstanding I hope? Why do the plugs need to come out? And is RTV Ultra Copper really not good for oil surfaces? Their site claims it is: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-copper-maximum-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail "Three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones;" "Suggested Applications: Exhaust manifolds/headers, valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings" http://www.permatex.com/documents/TDS/automotive/81878.pdf

I just did the same thing. So far the Cardone axle works great and man it's so much easier than rebuilding the OEM one, which I did last time. I still have that sitting on my workbench in case I don't want to pay $65ish next time another goes out. Also, whomever (maybe Underdog) mentioned to me that it's easier to pull the halfshaft without messing up the seal if you just drop the whole control arm, thank you! It is SO much easier that way.

Bummer that this didn't post a video preview... is this you?

Thanks for the awesome tune cryo! My daughter loves it too... http://player.vimeo.com/video/42443205