SSpeed

Where are the updates? Have to be done by now?

I have a fuel tester, but haven't tested it yet. The crappy part is I have no control on what my fuel was before even if I do measure the new. I also have filled at least 5 tanks since the problem started, from 2 different sources. I may go seek out another station just for research purposes. The MAP sensor is a good suggestion, it's reading lean at idle right on an ECU reset though as well. For instance, I'll reset the ECU and start it. It runs great for about 30sec while in open loop enrichment, then it switches to closed loop, nearly stumbles and then Learning A jumps to 12% almost immediately.

Blind dart away! I cleaned the 2 engine grounds on front. I had the same thoughts. Where would you add some? I plugged the AOS line at the intake and vented the AOS to atmosphere for a test, WOT AFRs stayed exactly the same. I still can't conceptualize how crankcase air from the AOS isn't unmetered air, but I guess it's more of a pulsating suck and blow and maybe offsets itself? If I run higher pressure into the intake I usually block the AOS line and the emissions purge line so I don't pressurize the tank or crankcase. For the smoke test I just leave them as it's only about 5psi. I have the factory MAP sensor. Boost targets are 20.5psi. They are reading the same between my boost gauge and what Romraider shows me. I also checked MAF voltage and g/s and it's reading right with the key off according to the service manual.

Sure man. ID1000s with topfeed conversion kit. All ID lines and rails from the FPR in. AEM 340 pump BNR16G e85 ProcessWest topmount TGVs gone Crawford AOS Grimmspeed 3-port BCS Upgraded exhaust from head to tailpipe (3" after turbo, Full Race EL headers, Grimmspeed uppipe) Perrin inlet tube (the reinforced version) Stock intake Stock FPR

I am hitting boost targets. I swear I think it's an intake leak as well. I've done a pressurized smoke test, and I've torn the intake down to the cylinder head to check everything. The A and C and WOT numbers come back the same no matter what I touch, about 12% off for A & C. Like you I've had a leak at the EWG line before and it smoked like crazy on the test. My injectors are ID1000s, they are set to 655cc/min in the tune for e85. Last night I reduced the injector size 12% in the tune to 577cc/min. Went for a ride and WOT is right on target at 11.6, A & C are pulling a little less than 1% out. Fuel pressure looks good. I pulled the FPR line and it sits right at 42.5psi. I also videotaped the boost and pressure gauge at WOT to analyze it and all looks good. For whatever reason, I'm about 12% lean everywhere, vacuum, boost, idle, cruise. With the injector size in the tune reduced 12% it's a whole different car, partial throttle is crazy responsive, boost comes on WAY faster. I would think an intake leak wouldn't be so consistent at 12% everywhere. I just don't know what it could be at this point. Really the only thing left is the ECU isn't getting the correct signal from the MAF, or it's not sending the right voltage to the injectors?

Ugh, this is annoying. Injectors were cleaned, they had a 1% increase in flow after cleaning. I tore the intake tract down to the cylinder head and inspected everything. Fuel pressure is good, so it's not voltage or the fuel pump controller. MAF is brand new, wires look good, voltage shows up within spec. Cleaned the K&N filter I mean, what really is left? I don't know what could be wrong? Could it just be the summer blend of fuel?

You will also need the fuel pump control unit and associated wiring in the rear quarter of the LGT as the 2.5i doesn't appear to have one referenced in the service manual. The radiator fan circuits back to the ECU are also different, but if you are taking the whole wiring harness and ECU you'll probably be fine.

Can we see the custom paint job and custom interior and wheels?

Are you moving the whole wiring harness over? Basically you'll need to pull the entire dash to either replace the harness or spend quality time with the service manual splicing the two harnesses together.

If you want a sleeper wagon just find an XT and pop the XT decal off. Why go through all this trouble when there are better options out there? The reason no one has a list for you is because it's a terrible idea.

Sorry to necromance this thread, but thought it was relevant over just opening another one. How can the re-wire make you go rich unless you are outflowing your pump? (I do realize that was the caveat you put in so maybe that's the answer). As long as you have good pressure and are under the flow limits of the pump, the ECU and injectors should be the ones taking care of the mixture, not the pump? Or is there a piece I'm missing? For example, if I have an AEM 340lph and I've estimated my peak fuel needs to be about 181lph (ID1000s at about 74% IDC on e85 targeting 11.6AFR, 21psig in Denver, 17psig compared to sealevel and 12psig at redline compared to sealevel), re-wiring shouldn't affect my tune if I have good base pressure and my pressure is rising 1:1 with boost right? Even if my pump were flowing less due to the factory wiring, I should still have plenty of fuel as long as pressure is behaving as it should?

I don't personally have that, but thought about it as well. Do you know if a person can personally purchase it? Injector service is about $100 on its own.

Zoinks, it appears it may be the e85 "black goo" problem. Running a can of 44k through now and the AFRs are dropping, but still not perfect. I filled up at a new station twice just after dynoing with great AFRs. I may have to pull the injectors and have them cleaned.

Thinking out loud.... Every plug when replaced was a uniform white. Not bad, but about what you see with stock plugs at a higher hp. That makes me think it's not an individual injector or individual coil, but probably something more global as every plug looks a bit lean? Does that makes sense or am I overlooking something? I'd expect one plug to be quite different if it were a problem with an individual cylinder? Kinda glad I did plugs so I can rule out individual cylinders. I also logged the cylinder roughness to see if something showed up an individual cylinder and there is absolutely nothing showing up. Makes me wonder how bad it has to be before the ECU pegs it. I know when I had an injector go bad it showed cylinder roughness. This seems like it's across the board and a problem before it gets to the cylinder. Honestly, without the wideband or Learning View you wouldn't know there is a problem, it idles smooth as butter and drives nice, even WOT feels ok until you see it creeping up over 13 on the AFR, the backfire/stumble is just while granny shifting and feels like an incorrect mixture to me or a burnt exhaust valve. I can't see a burnt exhaust valve showing lean on 4 cylinders though and I would think that would idle poorly. And if it's not showing up as cylinder roughness that has to mean it's excess fuel igniting in the exhaust vs misfiring in the cylinder? It still puzzles me that the logs show reading 30g/s lower than normal on the MAF at WOT than what I've seen since the beginning of time. Maybe it's sending me down a rabbit hole of condemning the airflow metering, but it's almost got to be that or a huge pre-turbo leak that I'm somehow missing with the smoke test. You don't just lose 30g/s of airflow and run lean at the same time. Here's my next plan of attack. 1) Check continuity on all wires from ECU to MAF (this will be a huge pain and not sure how to do it) 2) Smoke test again 3) Tear the intake manifold off and replace all hoses and look for anything that I might be missing 4) Check the compressor housing 5) Pull the injectors and send them in for cleaning 6) Sell the car 7) Park it in Aurora and leave the keys in it

Sigh.... The new MAF didn't fix it. I am super confused.... Still getting a bit of a backfire at low loads. New plugs are in. Idles smooth as butter... Pulled my map off the ECU and made sure it was the e85 map, it was. Pulled the airbox apart and made sure that was sealed up correctly. On a hunch I blocked the AOS port that goes into the intake tube and vented the AOS to atmosphere. Could feel the AOS pulsating, but it did nothing for my leanness at WOT. This still feels like a massive airleak pre-turbo. I may re-try the smoke test. I'd almost suspect a burned valve if it didn't idle so nice. Looking around the pulsating air from the AOS is normal. I see no smoke from the oil filler tube revving it and the oil cap test reveals more vacuum than pressure. I had just done the same thing on my 3.6 and felt nothing from the oil filler tube so I got a bit confused.

Thanks for that diagram. New plugs are in, leanness and stumbling/misfiring at low load persist. One step colder plugs were whitish, so leanness is occuring. Not hot enough for melting or electrode damage though. I ordered a new MAF today. The fact that at WOT I'm 30g/s below what my logs have shown forever, with the car still running great at WOT, seem to point to the MAF or the harness. The only other real possibility is 30g/s of unmetered air getting in at WOT. I've smoke tested the intake from the MAF in and it tested solid. The unknown to me is both the PCV/AOS and evap purge seem like they would be unmetered air? Or am I thinking wrong? If I'm getting 30g/s of unmetered air through the AOS that's a big problem.

Plugs go in Tuesday. Another thing I just noticed. Airflow g/s at peak are only 229 g/s. Normally they are up around 255 g/s. That seems like a large disparity especially given the car is running as fast as it ever has. I saw the MAF in Romraider at 0.66V with engine off and key on, Pin #1 is 12V. Nothing changes when I wiggle the connector. The middle pin is a rust color compared to the others, not sure if that is supposed to be that way. I've cleaned the MAF and the connector. I wonder if I should borrow another MAF too just for fun.

Slowly getting around to this. Took video tonight of the boost, fuel pressure and AFR gauge. It's definitely not fuel pressure causing the leanness. Next up, plugs.

Weird, I just did that exact thing on a 600 mile trip yesterday. With the cruise set at 84mph the GPS speedo on my phone fluctuated between 84 and 83mph.

I'm starting to think this is an ignition issue. The mileage on the last tank was horrible. Perhaps a plug problem is causing leanness on an appropriate mixture due to misfire and the ECU is adding fuel back. The weird thing is the ECU is totally happy, no misfires registered, no roughness, but I can feel the misfire occasionally at cruise. At idle once it recovers it's nice and smooth.

I think that idea is sound. The smoke test was only 3-5psi. It didn't build as much pressure as I thought it should. I attributed that to going past the valves since I didn't see smoke, but I don't recall ever having that problem in the past. If I grab a couple of these and put them on the EVAP purge valve line and the PCV (AOS) line to block them off, I should be able to pressurize the intake to whatever amount I want right? https://www.handsontools.com/OTC-4506-2-Piece-Fuel-Line-Clamp-Set_p_6691.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwr-PYBRB8EiwALtjbz8jYPIdntwVJzg6GmkTbFLi5s68H5KlWikjS8ivtG1pfFuFsce3s-xoC-SwQAvD_BwE Can I block the EVAP line over at the FPR or do I need to do it close to the intake? I see it T's off at the purge valve under the intake manifold and it's not clear to me where it goes, can't tell in the service manual either. The BOV line and boost control reference line shouldn' t matter. Maybe pop the oil cap off just in case?

The new filter section and o-rings didn't do it.... the old one from Pull-n-Pay was disgusting and there was more crap in the surge tank than in 151k miles of my old one, but still, no go. It initially started up nice, idled nice and I thought, awesome, it's good. Then about a minute in it stumbled, went lean and barely caught idle. WOT confirmed it, scary 13.5, I shut down quick. Learning View is only at +3 so far, but it's still struggling to idle when I let off the gas, so it hasn't learned all the way up yet. The behavior makes me think the FPR is bad as a vacuum leak wouldn't be intermittent. I guess I'll get a fuel pressure gauge to test that theory next. A post MAF, pre turbo leak is still on my mind, but I sure don't see anything and smoke test was clear too. I guess if the fuel pressure turns out ok then I'll start tearing stuff apart until I find a leak.

Ok, I'm a big dummy, help! I went to Shapeways to have the triple Cubbypod printed. It looks like I upload the Guage_Pod_Triple.stl? But that is without the tabs? It won't let me upload the step file. It asks inches, millimeters or meters for the model? Is Versatile Plastic what people choose? Looks like there a bunch of options? The Black Natural is $85, Black Premium is $170. I feel like I'm making a bunch of guesses here. I also looked at 3dhubs.com and don't know whether to choose PLA, ABS, PETG, or the 5 other options.

They don't, they are about a full point lean (12.4 vs 11.4 target) and sometimes more. I've stopped stepping on it because I saw 13.3 last time, way too lean. It will shoot down to 11.4 when I step on it and quickly go lean from there. I agree, don't want to throw parts at it, that filter and the o-rings were probably due though. Having a fuel pressure gauge would help too.

Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately this is the 3rd tank of e85 with the problem, from different places. I had the thought that the stock o2 sensor could be bad and that would make sense in a lot of ways. I should pull up RomRaider and compare the stock to the wideband. If it were the front o2 sensor I'd assume, maybe incorrectly, I'd run rich. The front o2 sensor has less than 20k on it though. I'm e85 so I don't think we'll see knock as readily. I considered the MAF sensor was dirty and not reading air correctly, cleaned that. Checked the vacuum lines to the FPR when I smoke tested. I also ordered the pump holding portion of the fuel pump canister that Subaru sites list as a filter (42072AG16A), as well as the o-rings (42025AG09A x3, 42025AG10A x1). I didn't realize it was considered a filter now. When I did the pump I grabbed an unmodified one from a Pull-and-Pay that was dirty as heck, and my original had 151k miles on it. I put a new sock on, but not the 42072AG16A.