SubOperator

The Chemical Guys gel removed the hard water spots on the glass that were many years old. There was nothing I was able to find to remove them before that. I plan on cleaning paint on my wagon once it gets a little warmer.

I used Chemical Guys' water spot removal gel, worked wonderfully. Orange looking gel, is a bit pricey but worth it.

You have got to write a book about your experiences.

That list from @boxkita looked like half of RS6. Which is awesome wagon. Or you can wait if BMW NA brings M5 Touring stateside when it comes out.

Similar to what mine is doing now, being garaged and driven 1-2 times a week. Lived its whole life outside before about 3 years ago.

The driver side actuator in LGT also lost its mind. Interesting project for sure, taking into account that the dash is getting all weird after car sits in the garage - some whitish residue that goes away when car sits in the sun for some time. All of that to say that if I take that dash out to deal with HVAC actuators, I may have to put a new dash in.

I have to say that I do miss the ride quality in my older son's 05 OB... Don't get me wrong I love the handling on my 05 LGT with STI Pinks & Bilsteins, but it is a much busier ride compared how smooth the 05 OB was on stock suspension (and beefier tires of course). With Tribeca FSB and Perrin RSB it was taking corners just as well as LGT, at least it felt that way. So there.

Well if you already have 2 cars ready to be turned into something; pile of parts; lots of experience; and thinking about something more comfortable than GR86, then the answer is right there. As KZJonny said, 5-10K don't buy much of a car these days.

Yup. To my defense, I never claimed to be smart! Edit: In hindsight I think I was just sick of seeing them after 4 pulled engines within couple of years, and I did not have a good place to store them. So they were rusting outside behind the shed. I figured I can always buy/rent them if/when the need arises...

I am on stock TMIC albeit reinforced with BMB's endtank kit. Mine did separate before I had the BMB's kit installed, was fine even autox-ing since.

Great info already here, what can I possibly add? Some thoughts, in no particular order: - go head bolts, not studs; - JMP turbo is a great idea. I've been happy with BNR16G running Stage2 tune with catless uppipe and catted CNT downpipe; - on gauges, unless it's a must for you then prioritize per budget; - OEM head gaskets; - OEM seals/gaskets everywhere; - Fluiddampr is a great idea. I felt the difference on mine right away; - I do not know if car is modded? What about catless OEM up-pipe (05 STI on mine, $50 on nasioc), and downpipe? No point in having JMP turbo with stock downpipe imho; - when shopping for head gaskets/injector seals etc, go OEM; also, do not buy a seal kit unseen - check the manufacturing date. It may be wiser to buy all those separately to make sure they are manufactured recently. Seal kit is convenient for sure, has many small seals that are hard to find separately. - oil pump? Water pump? I understand these are getting replaced; - new engine mounts; - new grounding straps; - new starter? Can be replaced later but give it a thought; - aftermarket oil line for that sexy new turbo? - solid silicone turbo inlet is fine,a bitch to install but fine after. - I guess new clutch and flywheel once the engine is out? May be Exidy Stage 2. Think about new clutch fork and TSK3 TOB kit. Now I am not sure about the new AVCS, your call. With the mileage I think either new SB or rebuilt SB is a must. Heads should get full workout - valve seats, seals, springs and valves inspected and replaced if needed. Heads resurfaced. If heads will get valve seats done, ask the shop how they will set the clearances. The one I used grinds valve stems to match, and it's been good. I did not have to get new buckets. The Subaru grey sealant is great, can be found on Amazon too. There is very similar Toyota sealant. Do not go gorilla on it during application - too much can be applied very easily, ask me how I know. Be careful disconnecting connectors around the engine, at this age they are fragile. While on connectors, perhaps good idea to replace coil pack connectors - I expect most will break when you disconnect them. If you need any tools to borrow, let me know, I should have some and I am close. Unfortunately sold my engine hoist and engine stand.

Do you have part ## on hand to share? I think buying extra set is a great idea... Also, back in the day I put some soft metal mesh (cut from some Home Depot stock) over the frame. Prevents mice getting into the car - happened with wife's Tribeca.

All mirrors were spoken for. Mods please close.

One mirror sold...

TMIC sold. Mods please close.

Found my own procedure from years ago. Bam!

All PMs responded to. Since people are asking about installation and heating pad transfer: If you do not care about heating element then swapping mirror out is easy - the shape and mounting points are exactly the same as USDM driver side mirror. Point the USDM mirror all the way up as much as it can go using adjustment controls, then use flat wide screwdriver to pop the USDM one out reaching from the bottom of USDM mirror. Install this JDM one in reverse order, make sure it clicks into white holder frame fully. If you want to move the heating pad from USDM to JDM, then you'll have to patiently warm up the black plastic frame on USDM miror to get the mirror with heating element out. Do the same with JDM mirror so you have the mirror itself out. Be patient as not to crack the JDM mirror. After that, using some heat source such as hair dryer or heat gun, and being very careful and slow, you can start peeling off the heating pad from USDM mirror. Once it is off the USDM mirror it can be transferred to JDM one. I did it on two of our cars with no problems. Key is being patient, and use heat. Also, wear some silicone gloves as the tar used to stick heating pad makes quite a mess once it is softened. There used to be a thread on this forum with steps and pictures but I can not find it anymore after forum engine change.

PM responded to

The OEM sounds proofing on the roof is very minimal.

This is left side (US driver) convex mirror. US has flat driver side mirrors with really narrow field of view. Passenger side in US is the same as ROW. I have converted my LGT and our Tribeca many years ago using these JDM passenger side mirrors. They greatly improve the field of view. These do not have heating element so you will have to transfer heating pad from your existing USDM driver side mirror. Asking $15 OBO per mirror + shipping + PP fees. I have a few available. --- --- ---

These are from my car, 05 wagon, with amber turn signal. In good shape, no broken tabs or corners. There maybe some light surface scratching, but not too much as these were taken of the car years ago. See pictures. Asking $80 + shipping + PP fees. --- --- --- --- ---

OEM TMIC in great shape. No open ends, no broken tabs. I bought this years ago as a spare and forgot about it. Mine seems to hold OK and I may even go EZ30 way with the next engine. Asking $90 OBO + shipping + PP fees. --- ---

OEM MOMO steering wheel with audio controls. Got it from Unclemat a while ago. My plans have changed so looking for a new home for it. I has some wear but overall is in good shape. See pictures. Asking $120 or OBO + PP fees + shipping. --- --- --- --- ---

I did the roof when I had the headliner out. Also I did the rear gate since I had the trim off anyway. All this combined made the car much more quiet.

Take a little break and have some rest. Not worth losing a car with that much done to it over a split CV axle boot. It would be coming out for suspension refresh anyway. White turbo wagons are not easy to come by these days.