tekman78

Thanks. Exactly what I thought, with the color. But regarding a flush - it always seems like everyone recommends against flushes, and just stick with D&F's. I know that is the case for automatic trans, but is that the same for a CVT? Are there the same risks of flushing a CVT as there are with an AT?

So I did a CVT service at 120K over the summer. Felt an odd shutter/bucking on RH turn when I left the shop that day, and didn't feel it since then. Figured fluid was just making its way around the trans body. Then, this winter, I started feeling this again when the car was cold, on RH turns. Took it back to the shop. And after all kinds of BS, come to find out they used Fram CVT fluid. According the Fram, it's supposed to be in spec for my 15' Legacy, but it sure didn't like it. Seems the pumps/pickups just couldn't handle it when it was cold, so I'm sure it was getting starved when I felt this. I could also hear a hissing-type noise when I'd make that RH turn and experience that bucking/shutter. So we swapped it back to Subaru fluid. Issue is gone. Now, I'm concerned about longevity and what issues this may have caused long term. Fram fluid looked was a pinkish color when new, not green like the Subaru fluid. And it looked like shit when it got drained, and it had only about 15k miles on it. So now we've added the green back in. And I've got a "lifetime powertrain" warranty on it, from the dealer it was bought from. I tried to explain my concerns to the shop in getting this back to a state where, if I had to take it in for warranty work, that they couldn't question the fluid. This dude tried to tell me the green wouldn't stay green and it's just additives and nobody would be able to tell once I got some miles on this green fluid - that it would end up looking more pinkish/translucent, and I just don't buy it. Should I keep pushing these turds to keep flushing it until it's all green? And how does the green fluid hold up over time, from a color perspective? I need this info because it's my only way of knowing whether or not I got this shop to fix their mistake in the first place, and then go tell them to fuck off. And I want to keep making sure I shove as much proper info back in their face, instead of them keep trying to pull the wool over my eyes on their stupid decision to not use OEM fluids. They always had in the past for drivetrain, so I never bothered to ask. Because if this CVT got screwed up by them and my warranty won't cover it, I want some leverage back with this shop with the emails I'm sending/recording with them. Appreciate any information you can provide on how I should continue to handle this with the shop. Thanks!

Really appreciated on these details. Exactly what I was hoping to hear. If it's not low, I'm having them flush/fill w OEM and see how it goes.

In the spring I had 120k fluids done. Had the CVT/transfer/diff drained and filled. Not flushed. When I left the shop and I'd taken my first right, I'd felt this engine bucking/surging I'd never felt before as I was going through the turn and accelerating. Lasted only a second and I hadn't felt it again. Until recently once it got cold. Now, I can reproduce it on a cold start pretty easily with the temps in the 30's. Once the car is warm I never feel it. The whole engine bounces around like crazy as I'm hitting the gas going through the turn. Like something is slipping like crazy or not getting the appropriate fluid. I know they didn't use OEM fluids in the spring. I had the same service done at my dealer at 60k, but with OEM fluids. I understand the appropriate weights were used both times. Anyone have any advice on what could be happening? Doesn't seem to happen with a left turn. Seems like one of the new fluids is either a bit heavier or maybe wasn't filled properly. For those that know more about the layout of the vehicle mechanically, especially the trans and how the fluid rests/flows, what would make sense for this surging/bucking that I feel? I'm taking it in on Tuesday but wanted some thoughts on it before just letting them they are start throwing fixes at it.

15 Limited 4cyl 132k miles here. When I get on gas pedal decently, I'm feeling lurch that feels like it's just some tired motor mounts as I'm moving through the shift points. Looking at the mounts, seems like just the one up front is all I'd need to change. And seems like I can get away with just the bushing without a lot of work. But that is just me eyeballing it and guessing based on physics. Anyone else feeling lurch that was remedied by swapping out any of the motor mounts? If so, which, and how much of the mount was replaced (everything or just the bushings)? Any other things to thing about? Thanks.

I took my 15 Legacy to Safelite today to have the windshield replaced and the cameras recalibrated. 20 minutes after I left, they called me and said my car had some codes stored for Eyesight, and because of that, they wouldn't attempt to recalibrate the vehicle. Windshield didn't get installed, either. I have him show me what he sees, and there are probably at least a dozen codes on his screen, across many modules (a/c, eyesight, blind spot, power steering, tpms, combination meter). He says they can't do the work until I come in and that code for the Eyesight isn't there (B28AB). Says that just last week they tried to do one that had a stored code, couldn't calibrate it, and somehow disabled the whole "system" and had to replace it for the customer (thousands of $$). I have a cheapo ELM OBDII bluetooth scanner that I've used a bunch. I always thought it did everything I needed it to for code reading/clearing. It seems to be able to access active, pre-emptive, and historical codes, and I thought also had the ability to clear them. So I hooked it up today and checked multiple apps - couldn't find a code in sight. I've also never had issues with any of these systems, or DTC/MIL/CEL's, etc on my Legacy (knock on wood). It's got almost 130k on the clock, it's in a garage much of its life when idle, and I maintain it well. I have had the windshield replaced before and recalibrated once a couple of years ago. He was using a $5k Bosch pro setup, not my $30 BT adapter. Does that thing dig deeper for codes? Should I be able to take it to AutoZone and get lucky for them to see and clear all of those? Or do I need to go to Subaru? Or is this dude nuts? I made him show me the screen and the VIN to confirm it was my ride, because it makes no sense. And I actually want the Fuyao glass from Safelite so I need to get these cleared so I can take it back there. He made it seem like this was his boss' policy because they had to drop $5k a couple of weeks ago. Seems like crap to me, but I do have to deal with it now. Thanks.

i have a 15 legacy with the known crap windshield. had it replaced a couple of years ago after a chip turned into a crack. couple of weeks ago, walk out to the car, and there is a 2 ft crack in it (starting down from the bottom drivers-side corner). no clue why. regardless i need to replace it again. i've has such shit luck with the OEM window and the first re-install with Subaru service, i'm just letting safelite do it thru my insurance. they want to use aftermarket glass and they will recalibrate the cameras. it has to go into their shop for this, due to the recalibration. i was going to push for OEM but i don't think they ever fixed the design of the windshield and it could absolutely crack again, so i figured i may as well give the safelite aftermarket option. i know everyone always says OEM only, blah blah. any SPECIFIC instances that you can give my why aftermarket is/isn't a good option for replacement on my 15 legacy? forget about what "everyone" recommends by using OEM. have you directly had issues with an aftermarket windshield in your leggy that uses eyesight? or have you had better luck from damage with an aftermarket on your leggy, vs the OEM one? always felt if i breathed on the EOM one it would get damaged. had this one for 2-3 years, and didn't drive it a ton due to covid, and it looks like it's got 100k on it. thanks for your input. ps - no addtl warranty from subie on it left. and they gave me a $300 check last time to cover my deductible. don't think they will do that again for me.

Thanks all! Looks like those are two great options for grabbing an overlay that will fit. Now, I just need to figure out what color scheme I want to do!

I haven't seen anything specific for the Legacy or Outback. Are they all the same size, or what should I look for that will fit properly? Thanks.

Overlay would do it, because the clear plastic took a rock and it's just got a spider crack in it. Not sure I want the overlay look either, which is why I was wondering if any of the aftermarket badges I've seen for other vehicles would work, too.

The badge on the grill of my 15 Legacy is damaged. I can seem to find all kinds of alternatives or overlays for plenty of other Subaru models, but nothing specifically for the sixth gen Outback's/Legacy's. What overlays or replacements (besides the OEM badge 93013AL000) can I purchase that will fit properly on my 15 Legacy? I've seen some on pics of Legacy's here on the sixth gen forums. Thanks.

Did that match the b-pillar black finish pretty well on the door exteriors? And I haven't used Plastidip yet, but have seen comments about keeping it off of rubber. How did you handle the rubber that butts up tight against the chrome? Thanks.

I have a 2015 ISM with the gray/chrome trimmed grill at the moment. I have to get it replaced, so I'm trying to figure out what route I want to go. I wanted to Plastidip the chrome around the grill, as well as around the windows. Asking in another thread for pics of anyone that has dipped that chrome around the windows. Asking if anyone has pics of the chrome around the gray grill being dipped, especially on an ISM Legacy. Otherwise, I'd like to see the stock black grill (with that grayish trim ring) on an ISM. I've been looking for pics, but all I'm finding is all blacked out, which I'm not really looking for, and nothing really on an ISM. Thanks much.

I have a 2015 that has a damaged grill. Just looking to see if anyone has one laying around, if you'd replaced your stocker. I currently have the gray/chrome combo, but I'd consider the black one too, depending on the price. Thanks.

Has anyone ever used Plastidip on the chrome around the side windows? If so, have any pics?