ronemus

To be certain, you would have to dismount the tires to inspect the sensors. They might be reprogrammable if they're not currently set up for Subarus, but you would have to go to a tire store to have that done or invest in an expensive tool.

That is correct - the tool can initiate a relearn independent of the brand of sensor. You just have to be sure that the wheels are already programmed for use on Subarus. Note the the operating frequency has changed, so older Subaru sensors will not be compatible with newer vehicles; the date of the change is model-dependent.

I use an Autel TS-508 because it can set the IDs and read them from the wheels - no need for 2 tools to do the complete job. It can also program Autel sensors, but not the usual Schraeders.

This assumes that there are sensors installed in your old wheels and that the batteries haven't gone dead.

Best bet would be downloading the factory service manual; they're available free from multiple sites for the older models like yours, or you can pay Subaru $35 to use the official site: http://techinfo.subaru.com/index.jsp

Those plugs have a lot of life left - no wear or deposits. The gap looks about right, but should probably be gauged. The next most likely culprit is the wires; definitely use NGK - much better than OEM. It could be the coil pack, but those rarely fail.

I have a non-standard alignment on my '17 Outback 2.5i: 0 toe and -0.5* camber at all 4 corners (Moog camber adjustable arms in rear, and a camber bolt in front). It makes a world of difference! The stock alignment with no front camber and -1.5* rear camber plus some rear toe understeers like a pig - the setup is undoubtedly intended to prevent even the most inept from ever provoking oversteer. The car is transformed with the new alignment, turning in easily and drifting at the limit instead of plowing. I have other mods also: 1) Continental 245/50-19 DWS-06 tires on Enkei 19x8 Raijin wheels (45 mm offset) 2) Whiteline 24 mm front and 22 mm rear adjustable sway bars, both set on soft 3) Perrin steering damper lockdown 4) Philips Vision Plus bulbs for high- and low-beam, and fogs - much brighter and whiter than OEM The smaller-than-stock offset of the wheels maintains clearances with the wider tires (no rubbing), and the performance of the DWS-06 is far better than the OEM tires, especially on snow. I also highly recommend the Philips bulbs for much better lighting for little cost. Once Bilstein makes struts/shocks for the Legacy, I'll swap out the OEMs and drop the ride height a couple of inches while improving the handling. A side benefit is that getting the kayaks loaded will be a lot easier - the roof is a bit too tall to make it easy.

I have used Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 tires for several years and have been very satisfied with them; they don't give up much to summer tires on dry roads and have good snow grip in Tire Rack testing. They are quieter than most other high performance 4-season tires, and are available in the size you requested. I use them in 245/50-19 on my '17 Outback.

There are numerous threads on this topic - search is your friend. No need to retract the pistons electronically (although it can be done with Subaru's SSM software - $$$); tools to screw in the pistons can be had for a few dollars.

I'd try 10W-40 - higher viscosity usually cuts consumption. I used 20W-50 when my '90 & '02 got to 100k.

The install was a pain - there's a bend to go around the turbo plumbing on a WRX that makes it difficult. I had to unbolt the front engine mount and tilt the engine up to make enough clearance. The thick bars control lean well, but a bump on one side induces some side-to-side shaking - definitely not a boulevard ride. In combination with my alignment (0 toe & -0.5* camber at all 4 corners) it's neutral at the limit and like to turn in.

Whiteline has multiple rear bars. I use the 22 mm rear with the 24 mm front and like the neutral balance.

I don't know of any OEM solutions, but have a Whiteline 24 mm front bar on mine.

The biggest problem is the clearance to the fenders - it looks as though the engine will have to be raised 2-3" to get a socket on the plugs. If anybody has a way to do it without the lift I'd like to hear about it.

Will this work on a 2002 LGT? I'd definitely like to improve the feel of my brakes.