FJuan

Not all rebuilds take months. I rebuilt my motor in 3 weeks, it takes a lot of dedication working on it at night and weekends. The longest part of my build was shipping the shortblock down to a builder in L.A., and waiting 1 week for it's return. The only other issues if a part where to break during the install, the additional time it took to track it down and have it shipped. My rebuild cost less than $6k. (recondition block, CP pistons, balance, pressure tested heads...etc) 1 month is very doable as long as you have done your research and made your contacts.

Pic of said foot in Jr's ass?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DcHnkIqFW0]Friends: Rebooted - YouTube[/ame]

AKA Gymkhana, look up Ken Block.

Exactly why I didn't go the light weight flywheel route, because I do a lot of city driving. I want to keep it a little light, but not super light where you end up burning your clutch out.

Do what I did, search http://www.car-parts.com for a good WRX flywheel and clutch. I just scored a 2014 WRX flywheel with clutch (around 15k miles) for only $125. The pressure disk still looks brand new. Still going to have the flywheel resurfaced and balance for my piece of mind. Overall, I'm saving at least $300 or more over a brand new conversion kit.

My clutch is already on the way out, and the cold doesn't help it either. Talk about driving like a granny until it's warmed up. Forget about 4th & 5th gears, any amount of boost and it just spins. Just have to baby it 2 more weeks.

Boxkitty is spending more and building less.

O.I.C., I might be mistaking, because I've seen several stamps on them and seen 23 advertised on one of them.

What is company 23, I've seen them stamped on clutches too.?

Here's a dyno run, and surprising it does very well. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_ltL_pbHPY]Drift-Office : Phantom Full Throttle Electric Supercharger BRZ / FRS / GT86 - YouTube[/ame]

Let me know when your ready to install the new motor.

My CP pistons hate cool weather, this mourning was 35* and they were slapping like a motherfocker. After about 5 - 10 mins of driving they started to quiet down. From what I remember from my machine shop build sheet, my rings were set more on the loose side.

Waiting for update.

Tris made a funny.

Same here, give me some heads up so I can plan to come back up again.

That's a LeMon.

Oh I understand, I've done the string method several times when I was racing. That's just because I didn't want to spend the money on the alignment shop.

All you have to do is tell them what you want the specs to be. I've done it several times and they have done it.

So purdy.

I've pulled all the rubber sleeves off my guide pins, they were causing the pins to seize. Literary had to pound 2 of them out with a hammer. It's been 4 years now without the rubber sleeves and haven't had a single issue, nor notice any difference in braking.

Forged pistons for sure, and forged rods would be a good investment. May want to check with your builder for advice, just to make sure you need them or not. Otherwise, if money is not of a concern then I say do it.