dr_sharp

Damn, this sucker truly looks awesome - I think I'm gonna have to save up for one.....

dude every single time I see a post of yours I see the TS up front and X at the end and in the back of my head I'm trying to figure out why an Acura owner has so much interest in Legacys

I installed some Sylvania 3157A/4157A ST BP SilverStar 27-Watt High Performance Signal Light. They are iridescent when off and amber with turn signal. However, the rate of blinking is much faster than before. Is this normal? Did I get the wrong bulb?

You got this?

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-3157A-4157A-ST-Performance/dp/B000AMW0FQ]Amazon.com: Sylvania 3157A/4157A ST BP SilverStar 27-Watt High Performance Signal Light: Automotive[/ame]

That's what I had planned on getting, glad you mentioned it. Maybe someone can chime in.

^ There's a lot of amber-LED threads, I used "amber" as a general search term, and specified for the "Exterior" sub-Forum:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/another-led-mini-project-114148.html?t=114148&highlight=amber

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/swapping-led-lights-106803.html?highlight=amber

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/modified-headlight-picture-thread-96284.html?highlight=amber

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/yellow-turn-signal-bulbs-match-leds-100266.html?t=100266&highlight=amber

 

Those are just a few quickie highlights.

Oops... search > me...

Thanks

Has anybody tried these amber LEDs to replace the stock bulbs?

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Signal-Corner-Parking-Marker-Backup/dp/B001R2O75O/ref=pd_sim_auto_2]Amazon.com: One Pair 3157 AMBER 31 LED Light(2 Bulbs) /12v / Turn Signal Light[/ame]

Great question! Actually I had this thing in my car all spring and then when summer hit I was driving with the windows down, ac on, and the capacitive touch buttons started having problems (triggering without being touched). Although I didn't see condensation, I figured that there must be slight condensation on the inside? Not sure, It also could have been the drastic heat change from when the car was soaking in the sun all day and then the AC was turned on high.

 

Anyway I spent a lot of time making sure that the capacitive touch button re-calibration code was working correctly, made some code changes and haven't seen any more problems since. Hopefully the beta testers will give us feedback if they run into any issues like that.

Maybe you should send one to a tester whose location is in a climate with serious heat? (me)

Very nice product!

I like that you used the analog output of the LC-1, that means you could use it with any AFR measuring system that provides a linear 0-5VDC signal. I happen to have a 14point7 NAW_7s. What would be nice is the ability to customize that analog input such that someone with an oil pressure sender could monitor the pressure rather than AFR. I think all that would be needed is three functions: Name, 0VDC=some_value, 5VDC=some_value and the user could customize the input to monitor anything that's linear 0-5VDC.

Sorry for the really late suggestion, or if it has been mentioned already.

+1 to that.

6k...as in $6000?

 

they just don't want to do it...it'd be cheaper to paint your car, decide you don't like it, then maybe decide you did like it after all

:lol:

It's been a long while since last update, life got in the way of making boost gauges for a while;)

 

I got three beta units pretty much ready to go, invites were sent out to potential testers in the order of the testing request, first come first serve basically.

 

As soon as they confirm I will post who is testing.

 

 

 

At this time I do not plan on doing a group buy although I'm focusing on keeping this thing feature rich and the price affordable.

 

 

 

Really is depends on what the beta testers run-into... Hopefully things go smoothly and it wont take much longer than a few weeks to start building production units.

I love you.

As of today (6/19/10) I'm not getting a connection to either of these links. Can anyone confirm that they're still up?

Thanks in advance.

Look at post 275. you're welcome

This was a good read. Its unfortunate that false information is so plentiful that when someone who does know what their talking about tries to explain things they get ridiculed.

It is, however, entertaining to see certain peoples responses to a technically sound argument...

You're taking two apples and trying to tell them apart by using an orange.

:lol:

The main point from this thread is: 99.999% of people on forums think they know what they're talking about. And 0.001% of people on forums who do know what they're talking about will be ridiculed by the other 99.999% following a logical and well reasoned argument.

Thank you for the detailed explanation, biz. Unfortunately trying to reason with an entire forum is more difficult than the many years of schooling / experience that you obviously carry under your belt.

Hacking the stock speaker is pretty simple to do.

 

1. Cut off the plastic baskets on the back. A dremekl with a diamond blade works great for this.
   
2. Trim the foam on the outside of the speaker cone
   
3. Cut off the wires to the speaker coil. That gets the magnet and cone out.
   
4. Remove the foam on the front of the speaker. That will get you back to the paper spacer. Scape the foam so you can see it well, and carefully peel one layer of paper from the inside until the new speaker fits.
   
5. Break a hole where the speaker wires connected for new wires.
   
6. Mount new speaker, feed wire through OEM hole. I used some hot glue to improve the speaker mounting.
   

Pictures?

Approximately how many square feet of material would I need to do the entirety of my wagon? I want to do the floor, doors, roof, hatch, everything.

 

I was going to use this stuff: http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3

 

BXT on the floor, BXT-II on everything else, and a layer of self-stick Ensolite on the back side of all of the panels (so on the headliner side of the headliner, on the back of the door cards and all trim panels, etc. I would put it directly over the butyl material on the floor though, not stick it to the back of the carpet).

 

What do you guys think of that approach?

 

I was also going to fill some dead space in the hatch and rear quarters with some Polyfill, as well.

I would guess about 150 sq. ft.

Rear doors are about 4 sq. ft. each and the front are about 6 sq. ft. each.

:lol:wise@$$:lol:

:lol:

Hey if he can't figure out how to search, he shouldn't be installing springs...

Wow...real, live serious posts from the distant past of rao.

I was just thinking the same thing

Thanks for the pictures.

Question--->? What has anyone done for the compass self dim mirror? Thats the only rattle I have. Did gluing the seal around it stop it from rattling? When I grab it, the 2 sections(was gonna say halves but they are nowhere near the same size) stop vibrating instantly.

Sounds like you found a solution!

That's a tough one. The origin of the vibration is likely the windshield, not the mirror itself.

I'm going to try this soon. I stripped much of the car this past weekend. Right now I'm driving around with no nav, no radio, no center consol, no rear seats, and no spare tire

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2960467&postcount=11

Its actually a lot of fun... the exhaust sounds great and I can notice a big difference in weight! I'm going to pull the door panels off, then go to the drag strip before I start with the sound deadening.

^Good idea...

lossol, would you be willing to do a group buy? Perhaps give a $10 or $20 discount to the first round of buyers? It sounds like you may have dozens of buyers already subscribed to this thread.