pksystems

Powder coated some parts. I have tonnes of white so I might as well use it on parts that can't be seen. The black is hight temp muffler black rated to 1200F Tested out a new color. Single stage Eastwood chrome with EW translucent red over it. I want the brembos to have an anodized red looking finish. This is a bit splotchy and darker then I wanted. I hot flocked it, which I think caused some of the issues. I will play with it on other random brackets.

Noticed I was missing upper turbo heat shield bracket, so I made one. I didn't have a turbo heat shield when I got the car, so I grabbed one off a Forester at PNP, and modded it to fit my downpipe. I'll powdercoat them both with high temp muffler black powder.

Finished installing cylinder 4 cooling mod. Started test fitting parts to figure out my braided fuel line routing. It makes contact with front oil line using a 90, and makes contact with upper coolant reservoir using a 90. I hope a 120 end will fit through the intake manifold. 90 degree steel orb-8 to 3/8 JIC fitting will clear front oil line. I don't want to use these, but I think that's the only solution. Rear fitting will either be 120 degree, or I go around the back of intake.

Pulled apart the Outback XT intake I picked up off FB awhile ago and cleaned all the parts. Pulled off the coolant crossover to change O-rings and noticed some deep pitting on the mating surface. I don't think this is corrosion, more like pits from the casting. Cleaned it good and put a small amount of JBWeld to fill the holes. I'll block sand it down and reinstall it tomorrow.

Hammered the lip on the STi booster out of the way, and installed the booster/master cylinder. Needed to pull the wipers/cowl to undo the AC hardline clips so I could move the line out of the way. I'm finding the PO's cigarette butts everywhere Installed exhaust manifold, uppipe, shields and turbo. I really don't like that hard oil feed line. It's begging to get snapped off installing a turbo. It's fine now, but I'll find a replacement braided one in the future.

Installed my DIY cylinder 4 cooling mod and coolant temperature sensor. Ghetto fabulous, but cheap. Oil pan drain bolt tapped to 1/4 NPT, then a tee, then a bushing for the 1/8 temp sensor. 5/16" barb on other side. This will mate to a 5/8 to 5/8 to 5/16 tee in the heater hose return. Started removing the brake booster and master cylinder. STi parts are going on tomorrow. While under the dashboard I started trying to figure out what brand of remote starter this car has, so I can see if I can source a remote.

Changed spark plugs and coils. One of the previous owners was trying to figure out a misfire issue. Plugs had some carbon build up, but didn't look that bad. Coils didn't look that new. Intakes were definitely blasted with something, but since the timing belt wasn't done, I know they did it on the car. Pulled heater core hoses and started working on my cylinder 4 cooling mod/coolant temp gauge sensor install. That's on hold till I find an M12 hex bit, or weld an old bolt onto a socket.

I didn't think I could fit this huge sensor under the alternator with a tee, if I could find one. The stock threading under the alternator is BSPT I think? I already had a oil plug that fit in rear port, NPT taps, and Home Depot racing supplies gift cards for the fittings. I had everything pulled off the engine anyway. ..... Installed my TGV's and started looking at the billet fuel rails I picked up awhile ago. The directions say to use the front and middle port for the feed/return and cap the rear, which doesn't make any sense to me. Upon test fitting the rail I now see why. It looks like intake camshaft sensor (?) is right in the way. I'll see if I can find a fitting that clears the connector. Test fit eBay radiator. Mount points look good. The height appears identical, possibly a bit shorter, the main hose fittings appear the same size, but I did notice one hose barb is smaller. The line that runs from the passenger side of the radiator to the turbo coolant reservoir is undersized. This radiator was listed as fitting 2008+ WRX which should also fit Legacy. My silicone hose (also for WRX) kit came with an undersized line for this position that fits. OEM Legacy is 1/2", this radiator is 5/16" Anyone know if the WRX fitting is in-fact smaller? I can get a barb adapter, and put a joiner between the rad and the reservoir, or I can get someone to weld on a larger fitting.

Oil pressure gauge sensor installed. Might have to tweak that cable attachment point on the rear engine lift bracket. I'm 99% sure all the PCV hoses will fit around that.

I have a set of these calipers ready to go on my car... And a set of 2 piston mercedes rear brembos that I hope to modify for the rears.

Installed new lower coolant hoses and water pump. The fuel injector seal kits Rockauto sells DO NOT fit our cars, but luckily a couple of the seals fit our dipstick tube, so I used them there. OEM seals arrived from dealership yesterday. Found an old transmission drain plug bolt off my DSM that fit's in the cylinder 3 oil galley. Drilled a hole through the middle and tapped it for 1/8" NPT. Pretty sure the oil pressure sensor for my new gauge won't fit straight up under the intake manifold, so I put a 90 degree elbow on that. I'm doing a DIY cylinder 4 cooling mod, that also has a coolant temp sensor for my other new gauge the same way.

Pulled the timing belt. Tried to remove the drivers side cams so I could check if the screen has been removed from the oil feed line on that side of engine. One of the previous owners had removed the turbo feed screen. Top cam came off with no issues. Lower one is never coming off this car. Pried the top of the rear timing cover and was able to get to the banjo bolt. Pretty dirty. I'm glad I removed it. Ordered some more hoses after the PCV hose snapped upon removal.

Cut a 1/8 inch spacer out of some scrap aluminum to account for some compression in the rubber transmission mount. Put it all back in the car.

Pulled the 5eat mount. There isn't enough lube on earth to get that insert in there tho. Maybe the mount has compressed alot with age? I made a 4th mount point for the rear diff in my DSM years ago with some 90A hardness 2part urethane. It properly cured when I tested it out a couple weeks ago, so I might as well use it. Cleaned the mount and sealed the backside with duct tape. Filled it up. After curing overnight, it's definitely more flexible then the blue insert, but it should firm up a bit more when it's fully cured in 24 hours.

Grabbed some small bits and pieces from junk yard. Got these new bits from FB marketplace. Billet pitch stop, 5eat hard insert and turbo blanket.

Silicone hose kit arrived and I decided to try and figure out where they all go. Pulled radiator and timing covers to get a better look at the hoses coming out of the water pump. Ordered all aluminum radiator. I'm no expert, as this is the first Subaru timing belt I've seen, but I think I have another project to add to the list before this car starts again?

Started degreasing/steam cleaning the bottom of the engine. I noticed this dent when I was doing motor mounts, and thought I could replace it later. Then I noticed the mounts need to come back out to get to the back bolts. Does this dent on the oil pan look like something I should worry about? (pickup point near there?) or should I just leave it? There is no leaks from that area.

Installed new OEM WRX motor mounts. Pretty easy with an engine hoist and half the engine removed. All bolts undone from front of engine. I'm not sure the mounts in the car were actually blown. There was a large strip of loose rubber around passenger mount, but nothing on drivers side.

I dunno why this keeps happening, but everytime I start to modify something, I find the aftermarket version of what I'm making on FB marketplace for cheap. Picked up Aeromotive billet side feed fuel rails, 5/8 hose for a new turbo drain, tuner lugnuts, and a pound of eastwood translucent red powder coat powder for the brembos.

Pulled headers, uppipe and turbo. The turbo drain didnt seem to be attached. My STi catless uppipe appears to be just under 1.75" opening. The catted LGT is 1.5"

Spent some quality time with the die grinder. Good enough.

Ripped the rod and plates out of my Legacy TGV's and JBwelded threaded aluminum plugs into the holes. Picked up an extra Outback XT intake manifold with wiring, injectors, fuel rails, and red AVO silicone turbo hoses for cheap off FB Marketplace. I can use the fuel rails if I screw up my AN-6 conversion Ordered a black silicone hose set.

Bought all the fittings needed to convert my stock fuel rails/lines to parallel with teflon braided AN-6 line (no more leaky rubber hose in winter) ..... Now I need to find an AFPR. Spent a couple hours getting my intake manifold/TGV's off. The PCV hoses are rock hard. They will be replaced when I do my dual catch can setup. This is the first time I've tore into a subaru engine. Do these intakes look like they have been recently cleaned? This car has 215,000 miles on it.

Is your door fully closed or is that chassis flex? In the video every turn the door gap widens.

Started pulling pieces off the front end so I can install new parts. It looks like I'm riding on JDM KYB New SR struts with STi pinks. Scrubbed down the mid pipe and mufflers with Eastwood afterblast and hung them to dry so they can be painted.