MoleMan

Honestly I would not buy an Infiniti. When buying a car I drive and audit that drive of the car first thing. The tech comes second. I mean whats the point if the car drives like crap but the tech is great? Why not look at Teslas at this point? Just saying a nice Model 3 will set you back just as much. With this car market Infiniti is really not giving any deals right now. 0.9% for 72 is the best you can get. However all that being said you can probably get a better deal since Infiniti are hard to push out the door compared to the competition. I honestly hate the dual screen and love the single screen. However thats a preference. And I really hate the set up the the Lexus GS 350 reminds me of my old Avalon. I really am not trying to harp on Infiniti. But the thing that still pisses me off is that the service was the worse I have ever had from any brand. I can deal with assclowns all day. But having them scoot me away multiple times from looking at the window between the service dept and the waiting room was a huge red flag. I guess my advice is if you like the car by all means lease it or buy it. The power train warranty is really only second to Kias. Just keep in mind Infiniti is a dying brand and you may have to go to a Nissan dealer in the near future to get service. Does it really matter? No. Oh and speaking of Kia reminds me have you driven a Stinger in compare to the Q? Its honesty like night and day. More power as well. The one thing I do love however about the Q is the ability to dampen the suspension from the screen. And I personally thing the Q is very outdated compared to some other cars. The Q60 not so much. But the Stinger is better looking, even the K5 is better looking. But l like so say you are going to drive what you want not what others want. Sorta like wondering sometimes why people buy the cars they do its crazy.

Some days I get crap reception, some days I do not. It could be atmospheric and nothing wrong with the car. However in your case with all your work being done it could be something else..

The main issues for me in ANY turbo car is eventually the turbo will fail so you always have to factor a replacement cost. That being said I think a real mileage number on replacement is from 60-120k possibly more dependent on how hard the car is driven. The pro side to that is by the time the turbo fails you can upgrade. As far as the Ascent every single person I know that has one hates it. They all say the MPG is awful and some of them came from larger SUVs like Tahoe’s and the such. Now the thing is you are really hard pressed these days to,find a midsize sedan that is a non turbo as 7 out of ten midsize sedans have a turbo in them these days.

What you gained in width makes up for the loss in sidewall as far as I am concerned. Some people would complain more about the MPG loss more which I am guessing is about a mile a gallon or so from stock?

Very good place to check while under the car. That would explain the “rumbling” sound at lower speeds. But OP says nothing is happening on the highway. But maybe it’s because the radio is on and the engine is at a constant speed.

If I am not mistake in the 5th gen and 6th gen are 114.5 so coming from your 12 they should fit. However as ammcinnis has pointed out you may have fitment issues. I would go down to a local tire shop and ask them.

Your 17 also had the CVT so if it was that you would probably be very familiar with the noise. My guess is it’s probably a loose trim piece or just a guess here could be a heat shield. But heat shields generally don’t rumble but buzz and get annoying as hell. And they will do what you describe sometimes at lower speeds and then do nothing on the highway. Maybe try getting up under the car and see if anything is loose at all.

If you think 88k is low I have a 2006 SE manual trans in ABP with 46k on it. rarely gets driven. Bought it brand new and they had to get if from another dealer because of the manual trans. Sometimes I think it’s funny that I have a lot of cars and the one I Am in most is a 2006 Civic approaching 200,000 miles. The way I look at it is when my seven year old finally turns 16 she has a nice safe low miles twenty something year old car lol...

Yes it is an interesting story indeed. So I had bought the car used with about 40k and was using it daily for a bot six months or so with zero issues. Now here’s the fun part. For some reason I did not know Subaru decided to put Bilsteins on the 3.0 and not the standard suspension. I found this odd since at the time they were heavily talking about the Spec B and the Bilsteins being a huge difference between the GT and that model besides the of course limited availability(funny thing as I was seeing Spec Bs all over for some reason). So long story short I blew out two Billsteins. Pretty simple fix and replacement right? Nope. So on to the replacement which I had to directly order from Billsten and of course they were on backorder for two months. At that time I was getting sick of the waiting and got a refund and decided to go get a Camry and trade that Subaru(yeah best and most boring car in the world and it was a V6). Needless to say about three months later some kid ran a light and tboned the Camry which they totaled out with 9k on it. I had noticed that the Toyota dealer still had my car and they reduced it so much that it was actually 3k less then they paid me for it. So I just decided to buy it and funny thing as it only has 12 miles on it since I traded it in. I knew about the suspension issue so what I did was just buy stock suspension parts and replace the top hats both from a plain Jane 2.5. And here the car sits rarely driven in my garage. The only remaining issue is the wife calling the car color the. MOST awful color in the world which is the Harvest Gold Metallic. But to put things into perspective I have driven my Honda 26k this year, my 3.6 320 miles, and the 3.0 twenty miles. One thing I will say is that 3.0R saved my life when I was driving it and I think I returned the favor to it and that’s why I bought it back is my excuse. Short story on that is I was coming up to a gradual but bling grade turn in the road and a disabled motorist was In the lane of travel and it was icy and light snow. I applied the brakes but the car started to slide a bit and the computer cut power to the throttle so I could maintain control after swaying about four times. Could have been a bad accident as that turn is very well know for that. But here we sit in 2021!

Sounds like a CVT to me. Mine makes somewhat of a “rumble” noise at very low speeds or if the car is parked and I feather the throttle. However no issues with operation and Imwould describe the noise level as a 1 on a scale of ten so basically more wind noise then that noise is noticeable. Anyhow I would take it to the dealer and maybe change the fluid and see that everything is ok if you are worried at all. Maybe it’s the cars way of saying “welcome to the wonderful world of CVts” You want a bad CVT go drive a 2006 or so Nissan Murano that thing whines more then a Dustbuster about to explode. It could also as you stated be a product of a loose component possibly in the stereo such as a blown speaker. But the person who owned it before you could have had that thing on full every time the car started. But it would produce more of a rattle not a rumble in my opinion.

After having The entire lineup of DWS’s for the last 15 years I can say with confidence that they handle about two inches and that’s pushing about the limit. You can get by if it’s more with greatly reduced speeds to about three inches but that is the max max. The DWS shines in the rain. People actually avoid being behind me because these tires spit so much water from them. However that being said I had a Camry XLE V6 about seven or so years ago. Those has Avid Ascends on them and they got me up a unplowed mountain pass without issue at reduced speed at keep in mind 10/32 of tread. I also promptly put a new set of Blizzacks on the car after that and sadly that car was t-boned and never saw it again after that. Never had any issues really with Yokohama’s in general just not for me anymore. As far as size what did you need to go on the sidewall size on those 245s 45 or 40? I have seen some tire sizes the wider you get are also not only harder to find but incredibly expensive.

Can any of our Australian friends chime in on this? I was under the impression that the North American suspension setup was not as beefy as the “Liberty” and European version counterparts due to in those markets more people “caravan” like this member wants to. OP why did you go with KYB shocks? I had nothing but issues with them for years before I went to other brands. Or did you do it for expense or other supply issues? And 60k seems very soon to replace them unless the potholes really took a beating on the suspension. That aside the big thing is the weight of the trailer. I honestly don’t think that’s going to be an issue as long as you are in the specs for towing which I believe you are and that guessing you have a four cylinder. With the 3.6 it’s no issues at all. I have a truck for our fifth wheel trailer. However that in itself is a major pain in the butt to get out, hook up, get to the campsite 170 miles away going up several mountain passes. And even then the truck still struggles sometimes to get up the grades and mind you this is a 2003 Ram 3/4 With the Cummins. But that also is a trailer that is probably ten times the weight if not more then what you are looking at. In all fairness I have Crosstreks bone stock doing what you wish to do so I honestly think you will be fine. And to you come t about the Outback number being lower then the Legacy’s I thought the Outback’s was higher since the suspension is taller. But then again I don’t really pay attention to Outback’s that much.

The Ascends are OK tires and just OK. Better then most. I run Conti DWSs on all my cars and have never been let down in any condition. I will admit the new 06 pluses I have been running are wearing better then the previous versions. But that tire hands down is the best all season money can buy. And before I start a tire war no the AS3 and AS4 cannot even compare as I have both those sets as well lol. @aki334, The issue is to be sub 20 lb with tires is hard in the sizes these Subarus run. Won’t ever find it in a 225/55/17 as most of those are 24ish or so. Tire rack has weights on the tires as well so you can browse until the cows come home. Some summer tires will come close to that weight but it will be hard. Lighter wheels will get the difference of the combo down to most likely your perspective accomplishment the issue is those shells are not cheap at all(looking at say 2k a set). The Assurance is more of a daily driver tire and when you want planted it comes down to tread pattern as well as suspension setup. Once again Conti DWS will give you what you need. Let’s be real unless you are tracking the car and need weight savings I would not go purchasing expensive wheels and tires for this specific car. I also noticed the specs for that size Goodyear are T rated which honestly are awful for anything except daily driving. Great through potholes etc but not corners. That’s where a lot of unplanted feel comes from as well. Trade up to something V rated or above as most high performance all seasons such as the DWS etc are all W rated. Now please take note 35k on tires for me is right about 4/32 of tread and then I generally trade then in for a credit and get a new set. I find 35k on a 50k rated set of tires very normal. Also you could go to a 235/50/17 and get a more planted feel as well for the same money in general.

I have to say that I have also heard the same thing except people don’t go to German cars from the G or the Q. They generally go to more upscale Asian cars such as a GS350 F-Sport or something(hard to do when that car is disco now) With the G I loved the car to be honest. The VQ37VHR is a great engine. The issue was the service and most of the dealers not knowing how to fix the issues. A fairly minor VVEL solenoid leak turned into a disaster twice and then when the power train warranty was gone it all of a sudden turned into a guessing game that could all of a sudden be thousands of dollars. Not impressed. The VR30DDTT hands down is one of the best twin turbos stock from the factory as far as I am concerned in a car in that price range. In all fairness I had a JB4 tune on mine so maybe that was a factor with the turbos having issues. The huge thing that the Q50s and Redsport 400 are very disadvantaged on is Nissan decided to use the same 7AT from the G37 and it makes the Car very slow sub 3,500-4,000 range and then it takes off like a rocket. So all the power is in the middle and top end on these cars. But yeah I would say the VR30DDTT cars are as much fun as a GT if not more fun. As far as the warranty Infiniti actually has a 70k on the powertrain. As far as your friend the Audis are great as far as new with warranty and leased. German cars In general will have issues and it’s a matter of when not if. Surprisingly my Wife’s S4 has had very little issues except for the maintenance being expensive. I would say anyone looking for a Q50 can always get a good lease deal as they can’t really sell them compared to other brands. My Redsport was a lease and it was $399 a month with 3k down. I just caution anyone looking at the brand to look at things like the outdated tech compared to the competition as well as the thought that Nissan is probably going to absorb the brand as sales are bad. Just some thoughts. Why are you selling the 3.6? Biggest mistake I did was sell my 2008 3.0R about ten years back. Thankfully I got it back a few months later for a reduced price as the dealer could not sell it and it was about to go to auction.

I have to agree with you on the Civic. I bought it in 2006 with 8 miles on it. It was the Wife’s commuter car for about ten years before she switched to at home remote work. At least it’s the Coupe Ex. Funny thing is at the time my wife called me up when she was at the Honda dealer and asked if she should buy an Si that was “some Mugen edition” however she said she could not see why it was an additional eight grand more the dealership wanted! But the point at the time was a commuter car as she had an older C4 Vette and she wanted something with “better” fuel economy. Buy yeah when you are driving between 750-1,000 miles a week I can surly say a R18 that an Automatic sorta really sucks except for the fuel economy(42 MPG). But as you stated the cost to maintain this car is nothing. And it’s easy to work on at home as well.

Exactly. Same issue with pretty much any Eighth Gen Civic as well. OP, The issue is not anything else. You are literally going to spend a grand or more to chase down an issue and then come back to some shop saying RCA's and that being the culprit. If you start with replacing random parts great they are all nice and new but still will not solve your issue at all. Just a quick look adjustable RCA's for a 6th gen Leggay will run you between $200 and $320 plust cost of install and alignment(I would recommend a pro install to dial in the alignment) Good luck.

You just described pretty much everyone commute at least once a week my friend. Funny think is that all the other drivers doing what you describe are generally Outback drivers where I live. what really gets me upset is when someone is pacing me and wont pass or another big thing here is out of six lanes of highway that are sometimes empty including a Diamond lane they are pacing you or right next to you and wont pass. However my favorite of all time is the "fast and furious" aggressive drivers that are all over every lane then you get to your exit and they are stuck at the light. And as far as blind spots its funny since I mainly use a 15 year old R18 Eighth Gen Civic as a daily driver commuter car I keep forgetting about the BSM when I get into the Legacy. But then again I have only put 320 miles on the Legacy since Feb. The main thing with "floaty" is I love an aftermarket setup and generally its the first thing I do. A quick call to Yoshi at Cusco generally solves my cravings with part numbers for new sways and strut tower bar. However in the last few years I have had to resort to Hotchkis for my sway bars. I pretty much gave up on Whiteline except for links.

@Grnlantern1, Going against what I just said about Infiniti. Have you Checked out a M56 Xs at all? Car in Xs form is a bit rare but that Nissan 5.6 V8 as much as I hate to admit it is bombproof. And its over 400 house as well. The only issue is the outdated tech that seems to plauge the Infiniti in general.

A good example of cupping with a perfect alignment is my daily drive Eighth gen Civic. The rear has no camber adjustment so the insides of the tires cup. The only way to correct this issue it to buy adjustable control arms or a camber bolt kit(which is a waste of money I think). This car also has has all four shocks/struts replaced. However this is a different case as it’s a very well known issue with the Eighth gen Civics that are not K20 based(this is a non Si car) In my case the tires being rotated every 5,000 stops any major cupping issues. In this case I think we are both in agreement that the replacement of the stock springs with performance ones as well as having the stock suspension may be the issue. It also could do with brand of tire etc. I have seen hard as rocks Michelin Defenders have no issues with cupping on a blown out suspension while Conti DWSs cup within 2,000 miles or less.

@GrnLantern1, My mistake. I rarely look at any other Toyota products with exception of the Wife’s daily Scion TC anymore. That is a fine car I will admit. Problem is that any Toyota seat from 2012 regardless of brand/model(only exception is the LX models) hurt my back when driven more then ten miles or so. Now the LS500 I have test driven and I can say that it is floaty. It’s on the same “Floaty” level as our Legacy’s in the corners. Have you looked at a Cadillac V series at all? I am just thinking the size and HP on cars other then a Toyota product. Or are you set on a bigger Lexus with four doors?

Bigger question is did you align the car after doing the springs? As others have commented it’s a camber issue so I would check the alignment specs. I would not go stock on the alignment setup. Personally find a good shop that deals in performance cars and they can dial you in.

I have not been on this forum in years so I decided to make a new sn for this post in specific. About the Q50. Avoid that car and ANY Infiniti product like the plague! I have been away so long because I decided to buy a G37 and then traded up to the Q50 Redsport 400 AWD. The G37 has massive oil leaks caused by several VVEL Solenoids. And the Redsport was just plagued by turbo failures. And that’s not to mention the severely outdated tech in the car. It got so bad with the Q50 I actually traded it for a 19 3.6 limited and personally I am happy as a duck in water without the headache of that car. Infiniti is a dying arm of Nissan. The service frankly sucks. A lot of the mechanics have little knowledge of the cars and no desire to fix them properly under warranty. Off warranty they try to stick you with huge bills for parts that were fixed before. The S model like you had as a loner/rental is a fairly decent car as far as handling and performance however the AWD or X versions in earlier cars frankly is worthless to be honest. If I ever buy a Nissan product again it will be a GTR and only a GTR. @Grnlantern1 I had a 2008 ISF and it was one of the best cars I have ever had hands down! Power when you need it and a true sleeper as well. However sadly it was hit and totaled in 2010. But I look at ISFs like I look at WRXs it’s hard to get one that has not been abused and when you do find the right one you pay through the nose! Learned that lesson with the Wife’s S4 and her ever loving quest for the elusive six speed.