JoeInOregon

Pressure Gauge will be coming off the passenger side of the damper , electronic pressure gauge inline past damper and wired to tgv,

Flex fuel sensor ultimately went in the return line, for a bunch of reasons, but it is sitting at the lowest level will always have fuel and I don't plan to run a mix of fuels, so fast response is not even needed just enough to know percentage of tank should be fine, specially if you don't top off and run it near empty before fill ups

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PS don't hate on the brackets , I will make a proper one once lines are fabbed

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Well , tgvs, injectors, regulator , and damper are in.

I went threw many design ideas before I settled on one.

Return I'm sure on now ....

Advise welcome on supply.

Current plan is to come off the front of both rails with a 90, and run to a ywe , right behind the driver side tvg , running under the intake manifold and hairline cross overs

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Thank you both. It has been a minute since I have been able to do anything to my car. Timing belts on both my daily and my wife's daily plus other work has gotten in the way. I hope in the next 2 weeks to be back under the car, cursing with a smile!

 

 

Anyway: Airbag. That is a project I haven't touched in a while. I have a new idea to trick the 05 system to work with 06+ passenger seat but that is not high on the priority list. Check out Here and Here. That should give more detailed answer. My temporary solution is definitely a hack but the air bag will still work.

 

 

As for the dash, A/C. Yes, there are 4 motors. I made a post in this thread with the part numbers here and go with whatever part is superseded, since most of the 05 actuators are no longer available.. There is also good info in this thread.

 

 

Also was no one going to tell me that I can't spell for my life??? Just now am seeing the misspelling in this thread title:spin:

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Working on mine now

If you are not doing the work yourself, buy a kit with lines.

The cost to custom fab lines is not much less just in parts and by the time you pay a mechanic ... forget it.

Your other option is swapping out OEM parts that are top feed.

To make matters worse the kits are not as readily available for legacy's.

In your situation basically ask your tunner what parts he wants to use to get it done as cheap as possible, then open your wallet

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For sure, with stock fueling that difference is not that huge, more than anything it moves your powerband to the right and makes it a bit more broad. Once you add a pump and injectors you start seeing real (safe) gains

So I guess if you are replacing turbo anyway, worth it sounds like.

Part of me is a little bummed I went as far with the build as I did so think that's affecting my opinion.

I'm thinking the 16g and e85 and fueling will liven it up enough to make it worth it.

If I wasn't going at least that big I wouldn't do much, honestly the stage one canned tune and no other mods really changed the car, I bet up and down pipes and few other things would have been fine for me.

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Yeah! I have 3 buddies with LGTs as well! I got a few plans for the car come spring, hopefully the car will be fully wrapped burgundy, and it’ll be pro tuned on the vf52 I got awhile back. Just waiting on some body work stuff, an external wastegate, and some top feed fuel line stuff, and for it to warm up of course. Idk if you hang out around cars and coffee much, but I’m usually there. It’s super fun.

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I am guessing you got the car used?

 

Thinking maybe the Turbo was changed because of the banjo bolt issue/recall.

 

If you are the original owner I would say bravo! As even the most babied turbo cars generally have issues way before your mileage.

 

I would say as far as a date code maybe SIA can help but you are probably better off talking to a Subaru mechanic that has done the turbo repair before. It’s a hard one as nobody really looks at date codes unless warranty work was done. If it was in fact used when you bought it pull a car fax and see the date of the repair and you have your answer.

 

I believe the banjo bolt issue was for for 2005-early 2007 builds.

I'm starting to thing this car was very built at one time and the current motor and turbo are not original to the car

It has a transmission from a 99 legacy in it.

So it was driven hard enough to need a replacement but the condition of the engine and turbo do not show that level of abuse.

It's anyone's guess but I think at one time it was put back to "stock" and sold

The stering wheel also show wear that is indicates some serious white knuckle driving

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Knowing what I know now I never would have replaced my turbo, my only concern was it being a 177k car, during the disassembly I discovered my turbo is in great shape and has probably been replaced.

When you look at Dyno numbers for stock turbo vs a vf52 with stock fueling I don't see the justification

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I have one

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Do you still have your legacy ?

A few of us in bend our going to get together this spring/summer.

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As soon as I saw this mount after removing the intercooler, I knew what a pitch stop was! Thanks for clarifying!

 

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Worried about what tension may be on it.

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As an owner of an 05 I approve this .

Would love to do a 6mt one day without messing with the rear

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I really liked the AVO, it had a small plate on the back you could remove for a little more noise but not enough air to mess things up.

Help body well (stage 1)

Seemed to act quickly and was a noticable improvement from stock

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That's unfortunate Tehnation, I had these issues with the stock tune and the stock fueling system. Now I'm on aftermarket rails, lines and FPR. I also don't have any dampeners. The fuel lines are ran in a parallel system.

 

 

 

I'd love to see who else has these issues or who may have some insight / feedback on where to start looking for clues / solutions. I'm thinking it may not be tune related since I've had this with the stock / base tune and two tuned maps. Maybe it's a mechanical issue with fuel delivery.

New set up will be ID rails in parallel ,1050 ID injectors, separate return line for each rail from the back side to Radium FPR

Pressure side will be stock line into Radium inline damper then out then a y that splits to the front of each rail

Radium said obviously their rails with the ports for their own rail mounted dampers was best, but the inline with their fpr should be fine. They do make a fpr with built in damper also.

Some research I have done suggested having separate lines into the fpr is going to help with pulses as well.

Only time will tell and I'm also curious to see the difference in e85 and pump gas in this department

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In the process of my build and taking parts out I got to my stock turbo.

It looks dam near new , there is absolutely no side to side shaft play and in and out is barley perceivable.

I figured 170k turbo was about toast and was the main reason I decided to go 16g. I'm kinda torn now.

Can I get production date from the serial or any way to identify if it is original ?

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I had a first gen outback sport with the ej22 that was a beast of a daily and sh*t 4x4 trucks on occasion, I had that thing deep in the woods.

Man I miss that car

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Interested in aos when it comes up

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A little progress today, the intake is out can finish fabrication on fuel lines and install new TGV's injectors rails fpr and flex fuel kit now.

From there plan to do the turbo, up and down pipe , then finish with installing turbo inlet and manifold.

Any advice on how to go about assembly order is appreciated now that it is apart

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Yeah, you're in the hole deep. One thing I'd recommend is fashioning some dowels for reinstalling the manifold. Made that process a bajillion times easier. These are the passenger side dowels circled, with the manifold having been seated.

[ATTACH]294963[/ATTACH]

 

So it goes like this:

- Buy 4 pretty long bolts. I can't remember off the top of my head, but maybe 6 inches minimum. Also can't remember the exact thread measurement. Maybe m10x1.5? Take one of the manifold to heaed bolts with you to the store.

- Cut the head of the bolts off

- Use a dremel cut off wheel to cut a notch into the now top of the bolt.

- Position these 4 studs into the heads to guide the manifold down. Two per head. They don't need to bottom out in the head, just a few threads to keep them steady.

- Once the manifold is down (don't forget the gaskets!) install the other two manifold-head bolts, and unscrew the studs with a narrow regular screw driver. Use a magnet to pick the studs up fully out of the manifold. Install the remaining two bolts per side. Immediately start car and do wheelies for days.

 

I was terrified of mangling the head-tgv gaskets when I was fixing my fuel lines. This ensured the manifold went straight down, and completely lined up with the head bolt holes. I still needed to finagle the manfiold assembly past a few hoses and harnesses, but even that wasn't that bad knowing I had the guide dowels waiting.

Ya I'm in deep new TGV's, rails , injectors , all gasket and hoses are on the list, as well as turbo inlet

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Mother

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If you think your car has issues now, wait until it has over 300,000 miles on it and stiffer mounts/bushings.

 

My wagon is fun to drive, but on the long 150-mile ride to VT, it's a bit tiring.

 

You have a Spec B, if you don't like it, I'm sure it will be easy to sell.

 

Remember, your car was designed about 15 years ago or more, design's have changed over the years.

 

 

They don't make cars like these anymore, good bang for the buck.

 

My wagon still puts a smile on my face when I push my right foot down.

 

I keep my Spec B for weekends and when the wagon is being fixed.

The legacy's are so great because they are quicker than they should be and look

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If you are doing the wrenching a remote tune might be the way to go.

You won't get the Dyno sheet , with a good tuner you definitely get a good tune.

I have always done it this way with my VAG cars but now I have a great shop down the road.

You can get to your goals for way less than it's going to cost you the suggested route.

In my experience remote tunes are also nice if you do your own mechanical work , you don't end up needing extra Dyno time and tune sessions to chase gremlins

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Very nice, that's always the best part.

Everytime I question why I work on my own cars , and when I finally get results I remember.

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Ok I'll be the one to say it. You're tuner sounds a little out of sync with your build , plans and goals.

Shop around

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