Underdog

I did a diy version of the GDT cooling mod. It was like $20-30 in parts if I remember correctly.

Did you control the inside diameter of the fitting or just use whatever the fitting came with?

It looks like you would need to loosen the bolt and work the coil out at least a little bit to get the zip tie around that way. I’ve also had luck making a square out of two zip ties (you need to use the thinner 4” ones), so the heads of the zip ties are on opposite corners. Then you slip it over the coil and connector and cinch them both evenly and clip off the excess. That should last you long enough to get a replacement connector kit.

This morning I’m looking at the GDT cylinder 4 cooling mod, and playing with an arduino and OLED screen (trying to get it to display DCCD lock, outside temp, and IAT - currently showing temp & humidity from another sensor off-vehicle). Waiting for a spare clock assembly to show up, to use for development purposes.

Took apart the AVCS pulley... Holy F... So much metal everywhere in this engine.

I reused my sprockets after my first engine replacement and a speck of piston the size of a pin head jammed up the 0° lock button and caused the AVCS not to work on that bank. Not fun to troubleshoot.

Do you have a thread on this?

 

Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

Bunch of info in my build thread starting here.

Oh man the cold air scoop trim to allow for easy removal, brilliant! You just saved me another step getting the front splitter hooked up to the car at the track

You’re going to love it. That was such an annoyance every time I wanted to get the snorkel out of the way. 5 minutes with a dremel later...

There are far more ways to upgrade a 6MT so I most likely wouldn't advise someone to go to a 5MT unless there were other considerations (fitment, cost, weight, gearing, preference). Since I kept my original gearbox I didn’t have to worry about the condition of the gears/synchros.

Yes the MAPDCCD can be operated in manual, auto, or any of four user-programmed maps. In manual mode the dial controls lock % directly, and in auto it controls the aggression of the algorithm. I have the unit mounted in the glovebox and am planning to wire a remote display of the output to the clock area.

Attached screenshots of my four maps (1 street and 3 tarmac). They are set up very rudimentary and I mostly leave it in auto mode because I don't have the time or space to test my own maps beyond the limit of traction, nor an accessible knowledge base from others. When I operate it in manual mode it is mostly transparent because I have sticky tires and traction is never an issue.

Tehnation said:

Whats your opinion on modding a 5mt vs going 6mt? I can't recall if all the 6mts come with dccd. I think the legacy 6mt is the cheapest one, not sure if it has dccd. If I could get one of those for the price you got it for I would be game, but you said they are hard to find. How much did you spend upgrading all the lsd's? Any part numbers or links for the lsd mods? What exactly did you upgrade for the lsds? I'm just trying to crunch numbers to see which route I should take. Are the lsds on the 6mt better than the 5mt? Can your 5mt take more hp with these mods?

The Spec.B 6MT is not DCCD but is able to take the 6MT DCCD section from an STI 6MT.

I had a hard time deciding between upgraded 5MT stuff or 6MT swap, but decided that I'd rather keep my 5MT gear ratios (can get to 60 in 2nd) and my original gearbox rather than inherit someone else's problems. My power goals were never lofty enough that a 6MT was strictly necessary, though 5MTs are a gamble at any power level. I'm currently at 350whp with probably another 50 still on the table (octane limited) and feel perfectly comfortable street driving my 5MT for a long time. I would not say the differentials increased the power handling capability of the transmission - they're all about traction. Edit: there was an element of right place, right time re: upgraded 5MT parts which definitely helped push me in this direction.

My front and rear diff are Torsen style (the Suretrac is not "Torsen" but operates on the same principle) so they are mechanical with no service beyond gear oil replacement (i.e. no clutches). The center diff is 36/65 torque split and will operate as an open diff unless you run a controller. I went with MAPDCCD because I wanted the ability to adjust the lock manually, as well as develop my own maps for it.

The front diff is RST-1903 from Rallispec. I think I paid ~$1500 back in the day for it (new). I installed it myself which required some special tools from Kent Moore/SPX (all listed in the Legacy FSM). You can find part numbers in the transmission chart pdf I attached, or the links I shared in my last post, above  

I swapped out my viscous rear diff for a Suretrac R160. It already had the correct ring and pinion, and was installed in a much newer R160 rear end. Again, more info in the links above.

Rallispec Transmission ID Chart.pdf

I've gone back and updated posts earlier in this thread with more info on my diff swaps. You can find them here:

AP Suretrac R160 Install

Torsen Front Diff & 5MT DCCD Install

Yeah I went to the self-tensioning belt back in 2015 because the tensioner was rusty and the bearing needed replacing. Thought I was saving myself some hassle, but you have to cut the self-tensioning belt off, and I needed it off to swap the crank pulley. Since I drive the car so infrequently and was putting in new parts I decided to just go back to the tensioner style. I still had my previous A/C belt so it ended up being a wash new stretch belt vs. new tensioner.

I've been doing it by feel for a long time, though I do usually put a straight edge across it and measure when I'm dealing with a new engine configuration.

Tehnation said:

 

What is that?

That's the front bushing of the shifter assembly.

A few updates...

Inspired by socalsleeper's sweet battery relocation panel, I decided to paint the accessory fuse box I put in the original battery spot (original post here), and make a plastic tray to bolt it to that would also clean up the appearance a bit. I made a template out of chipboard and transferred it to a sheet of textured 1/8" ABS. Cut it out with a jigsaw and fine tooth blade, then bent it using a heat gun and the edge of my workbench. Some stainless hardware to bolt the box to the plate, and the plate is attached to the car with a nut and washer that are accessible from underneath and behind the washer fluid reservoir. Also used it as an opportunity to label the inside of the acc fuse box cover, and to change the 9x single-pin Metripack connectors I used while prototyping into a 2-pin (headlight ballasts), 3-pin (relay triggers), and 4-pin (other fused circuits). I also made some brackets to mount the headlight ballasts to, and found the perfect location.

Before... (You can see I've already installed the new ballast bracket in this pic.)

After

Passenger-side ballast bracket

While I had the headlights out I swapped out the old H1 bulbs for XB35 bi-xenon bulbs from TRS. Seem to be a touch cooler in color temp but I'd still say they are a nice clean white, and very bright. No pics but I'll try to get some next time I'm under the hood or out at night.

As I’ve mentioned before, the powdercoat on my boost control solenoid bracket had somehow picked up a stain that would not come off no matter what I tried. I think the fine texture on the pc didn’t help, but I’m not sure what could have caused it in the first place since the only moisture its seen is when I wash it. Rather than re-coat it I decided to rattle can it with a metallic aluminum Rustoleum product. I was very happy with the results and decided to spruce up the STI BPV at the same time.

Since I had the BPV off I took the opportunity to swap out the 2011 TMIC with the pink STI logo for a clean 2015+ TMIC. I really like the way they redesigned the upper end-tank on the newer intercoolers, as it not only seems better shaped from a flow perspective, but also increased the clearance to my Carbing strut tower bar (though the bar still needs to come off for R&R). I also swapped the two piece grimmspeed y-pipe & couplers for OEM because I like the one piece design better.

Lastly, reflashed the car with a new map from Wicked Matt to help smooth out cold start idle. The front O2 sensor was moved to the downpipe because twinscroll and my ECU lacks the proper delay table to handle that. Matt implemented a workaround so now I just need to test it for a bit.

Happy to say I've been very busy with it the past month. Knocked out lots of little things that I've been meaning to get to for years, and having a project to focus on has been helpful as we go into winter during the pandemic. Gonna break it up into a few posts.

Installed a jazzy aux-in. Ran the 3.5mm cable in two 2' sections to the cubby in the armrest, where I have a Griffin iTrip bluetooth receiver plugged into the 12v socket. Having the cords connect under the shifter trim plate makes it so the radio or arm rest can be removed without undoing everything. Installed the toggle switch in the ash tray lighter socket (perfect fit!) and made a pigtail with some bullet connectors, again for serviceability. (edit: I later go back and replace the bullet connectors with a 3-prong molex connector.) I unpinned the 12v and ground feed from the original connector on the trim plate side so I can use them for something else yet keep it 100% reversible.

I had noticed my steering wheel radio controls had stopped working so I did some troubleshooting. Figured it would be a loose connection where I spliced in the wires a decade+ ago. Traced it all the way back to the controls themselves. Seems like the plastic might have distorted ever so slightly over the years causing an internal short. Taking it all apart and putting it back together fixed the problem fortunately! While I was in there I took the resistance values for each button:

Installed a SmartTap module from Diode Dynamics. Not much to say here other than it is totally worth the time to remove the lower dash panels and the crash plate under the steering wheel, to access the relay. Nice to have the tap turn functionality - don't care much for the strobe or other special features, but leaving the strobe because who can be bothered to reprogram after every battery reset?

Swapped out my Grimmspeed LWCP for the Fluidampr pulley. This debate is a bit of a dead horse so I'm not going to get into it, but I will say that take-off and shifting is much more pleasant with the heavier pulley, and it does seem a tiny bit smoother at idle and during relaxed driving. Nothing earth shattering, but I'm happy with the switch. You have to make a slight modification to the timing belt cover because there is no recess on the back of the Fluidampr due to the way it is constructed. The plastic cut very easily with a dremel and cleaned up with a file. Also took the opportunity to swap back to the original A/C belt and installed a new tensioner. I had switched to a self-tensioning belt a while ago - not worth the hassle.

While I was doing the crank pulley I swapped out the upper and lower Mishomoto radiator hoses for new OEM. My mishi hoses had this gross white residue that could not be cleaned off, and as Mike and I discussed elsewhere, it looks like there is a porosity issue. I also replaced the worm clamps I had been using with factory clamps on three out of the four spots. I kept the worm clamp on the upper engine side because getting pliers in between the turbo inlet and P/S pump and lines is a pain in the ass. Due to the thicker Mishimoto radiator I have the hoses needed to be trimmed to fit. I used a worm clamp as a guide at the cut line, and cut the hoses with a fresh utility blade dipped in dish soap. Easy peasy.

I modified my Cobb airbox to clear the base of the hood prop rod, and trimmed the cold air scoop so it could be removed without having to take the lid off the Cobb box (four small button head screws). Printed out a vinyl sticker to cover the Cobb stamp.

This is going to be a fun project. Running the "DCCD lock" output off the potentiometer just to get a hang for what the code looks like. I'm pulling the temp and humidity from a DHT11 sensor that came with the sensor kit.

Seems like a 3.9" (480x128p) TFT LCD will fit nicely in the stock clock location and will allow for a full color display, unlike this little monochrome OLED. Something like these.