Underdog

Sounds like a great workaround. There is a "clock relocation bezel" that moves the clock to the ash tray cubby, which might be a good piece to start with?

 

I just got my Arduino yesterday. I bought the sensor kit bundle which comes with a small OLED and a bunch of sensors. It was less than $40 with the Uno R3 combined.

My 09 OBXT did something similar. I suspected that the front swaybar was contacting the tie rod in certain cases. All stock suspension parts. The front bar showed minor evidence of contact.

Nice. Been wanting a MaxJax for years. Do you leave it set up all the time, or do you move it when not in use?

Looks amazing. Envious of your skill!

I pulled the bottom out of it...

 

I love the potential and anticipation of pictures like this.

 

How do you like that quick jack?

I feel like this was already mentioned...

I usually undo the front and rear LCA attachment points and let it hang and there’s enough room to get a straight shot. You can also rotate the whole arm outboard at that point and get even more room to work.

 

I’ve also just pulled the whole knuckle and LCA before, which is great if you’re doing bearings or axles during the same job.

Well on Monday I decided I have these mevotech control arms, so I should put them in. Well same story as always. Pinch bolt seized, snapped, drilled out. Get to the point of getting the ball joint out. It's real stuck. Read a bunch of threads. No local available bull pins. Finally buy a subaru ball joint puller and got it today. Hopefully it goes smoothly tomorrow.

 

 

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If you have access to an air chisel, that’s the way to go. Removing rusted ball joints is a Subaru rite of passage. Good luck!

How are those front spindles looking?

I only went with it because I was building for 350whp in a stock location turbo on pump gas, and like a little headroom on the critical inputs. In my experience every turbo Subaru needs a MAF replacement eventually; these cars tend to go through them. If I remember right the cost is about the same for the sensor itself, but obviously the harness and intake factor in, plus labor (time or $). But at least getting the word out there that this is possible opens up some options for folks.

 

Nice build thread, btw. Subbed.

I was doing a bunch searching and read that the 08-14 wrx/sti aftermarket air intake uses a different maf sensor than our LGT's. I can't seem to find a straight answer, and I've been going through here and facebook groups and can't find the information I need. I found a good deal on an injen CIA for an 08-14 wrx/sti. Just trying to figure out if I should buy it or not. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I have the Cobb SF+ intake for the STI on my LGT. The STI MAF has a higher threshold, but it also has a different o-ring boss and the mounting screw pattern is mirrored. It works on the same principal but you will need a new connector (CONN-85788 from Ballenger Motorsports) and MAF scaling. The wire order is not the same as LGT but I don’t recall off the top of my head - anyways I see that you don’t want to swap MAFs in the first place.

I really missed the OBXT and its Hakkas today. Had to scoot out in the Accord early this AM to get a part for my snowblower (yay procrastination!) and it was dicey. It’s so easy to take AWD for granted.

There are options for the 5MT as well. I have a 5MT DCCD with a 35:65 split (link). Cusco makes (or used to make) an open center diff with the same torque split. 6MT swap would open up more options but will cost a lot more.

I ordered an arduino uno and OLED display to play with. Whatever I end up with will hopefully fit directly and maybe even take advantage of the existing buttons. I’m not planning on adding Bluetooth since my DCCD controller lives in the storage cubby in the glovebox and has a dedicated 0-5V output for the signal I’m watching. However there are arduinos with BT on the board, and there are also add-on modules you can use. Maybe we can make a display board that works for both of us, with unique code to drive it?

Bump - $65 shipped for the remaining gaskets.

Thought I’d have some interest on the pulley at least - priced too high as a bundle? LGT folks don’t need the stretch belt adapters (though you can convert and delete the idler)... I’m willing to separate if that’s the case.

The screen size is what I’m most interested in, since the exact board dimensions won’t be needed until after prototyping (for me, anyways). I noticed the LED at the bottom left of the display, which I don’t recognize from my 06, though I’m not sure.

 

I would have applied the mpg correction factor if I was still on an OS tune, however I’m on a locked Cobb pro-tune so I’ll keep it in my back pocket until I need a revision. All that said it would be great if we could decode the incoming data stream and duplicate all the outputs on an OLED, but that’s over my skill level.

Btw - what year is that clock from? If I remember right, there are variations from year to year.

There are rear-biased center diff options, but nothing that lets you change the inherent torque split on the fly like you are describing. DCCD controls lock between the front and rear axles, but that affects the relative speed of the axles, not the torque output. Changing to RWD requires mechanical changes to your transmission that can’t be switched on/off (search “RWD conversion spool”).

Perfect timing - I’m looking to do something similar but with the “% lock” 0-5V output of my DCCD controller. I was thinking that if I can’t fit a little .96” OLED alongside the clock, I could replace the clock entirely and just duplicate the clock and E/T feature on the new display. I can live without the outdoor temp, and the mpg is useless due to larger injectors.

 

It would be slick if we could make a custom board that fits in the original spot, and found a screen that’s close in size. Can you measure that? I was going to shop for some components today.

Good suggestion, thanks. I’ve had a few serious offers but have not closed the deal yet. Recently quoted shipping across the country via UPS ground @$6xx, which doesn’t help. I did get a cash/picked up offer but it was below my threshold. I’d rather sit on them (pun intended) than let them go for cheap.

Reduces unsprung weight a bit and they don’t rust, but that’s about it.

Bump

Bump

I agree with the others that tires and dampers are top priority, followed by springs, swaybars and bushings to tune the suspension. However I do like the Cusco braces on my street car. They contribute to the overall tightness and “accuracy” of the chassis. Definitely chasing a diminishing return, but that’s what enthusiasts do...