Underdog

SOLD

 

I have two gallons of coolant that are in excess to my needs. Happy to pass them along to a local suby owner for $40 cash. Will throw in a bottle of conditioner (two shown, but keeping one).

 

 

No shipping. Located in southeastern MA and willing to drive a short distance to meet up.

Prices do not include shipping. Can accept venmo or paypal f&f (g&s is fine if you cover the fee). Located in southeastern MA and can meet within a reasonable distance.

 

2011 STI TMIC - $225 - purchased here and used for ~1,000 miles on my STI-swapped Legacy. It is in great overall condition with minimal bent fins and clean mating surfaces. I replaced it with a TMIC that did not have the STI logo. It has DEI gold tape on the relevant surfaces. Comes with extra crossover tube I have in the parts pile, but I don't have the bolts for it.

 

SOLD Grimmspeed 2-pc Y-Pipe Kit w/ Black Couplers - $75 - purchased new back in 2012ish and used for ~1,000 miles. SOLD

 

Unknown Y-Pipe & OEM elbow - $50 - came with one of the TMICs I purchased over the years. I never used it.

 

Let me know if you have any questions. Pics will be uploaded momentarily.

Sold

Please also keep in mind that I was using Whiteline tie rods sourced back in 2014ish. It’s possible they are drilling and tapping the outer tie rods deeper now than before, which would also accomplish the same job as trimming the end of the inner tie rods. As stated in the original post, trimming has always been optional. I’ve never heard of someone not being able to get their toe in spec due to not trimming.

I like to have the UP and turbo installed so I can prime the oil system while it’s on the stand. However it can be helpful to leave the hardware attaching them a little loose to make it easier to clear the edge of the bell housing as you align the engine and trans. Then just tighten down the hardware once the engine is in place.

Sold!

The p/s cooler setup is looking fantastic. Now you have me thinking about a similar vent to bring IATs down.

Anyone here have any experience with a (modern) Browning T-bolt? The left-handed varmint/target model looks appealing as a 22lr option for the same purpose for which it’s named. Also looked at the CZ 457 and Savage MkII but so far the Browning is a more compelling package. I’m not totally opposed to a 10/22 though I don’t own a bolt action and would like to. If I went that route I’d probably be more interested in a takedown model.

In this image #8 is the thick one (41022AG080)

#6 is 41022FE100 (there are 2x of these, on the OEM parts these are the ones with raised bosses around the holes)

#13 is 41022FE090

 

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495141002.png

Sounds like the white gunk could very well be the normal stuff that builds up as others have mentioned, though I’ve never seen quite that much inside the valve covers before.

 

As far as the cam sprocket - I don’t think there is a quick visual indicator of its phase. I was not thinking correctly when I suggested that as a cause for your timing being one tooth off; the sprocket would still be in time with the rest of the valvetrain. Since your lines are clear it seems unlikely that the sprockets are both jammed up, but short of disassembling them or monitoring the VVT advance when the car is running I can’t think of an easy way to inspect the phase.

 

Unfortunately it’s harder to diagnose since we don’t know if the problem is one side (with the other being cause by the timing being off by a tooth) or something affecting both sides. But if you look at the detecting criteria and the hydraulic circuit that makes up the AVCS, it’s pretty clear that it’s either low pressure, a blocked passage, or jammed up sprocket. Anything related to the electrical control side would have its own code.

Bump

Just saw the pic of the inside of your valve cover and for sure that gunk could have clogged the OCV banjo/lines or the cam sprockets themselves. It’s even possible that your driver side cam is stuck in a non-zero position, making it appear that the timing is off. Here’s a thread where I was chasing down a similar problem that ended up being a tiny piece of piston stuck in a cam gear: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-request-avcs-related-problem-131462.html?t=131462

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-oil-system-priming-tank-214760.html

The path from the oil pump to the OCVs is pretty short and direct. Can you supply pressure to the oil system and check for flow at the banjo on top of the OCVs like I suggested? Would rule out clogs without further disassembly of the valve train. Search for my DIY priming tank thread if you don’t already have a way to apply oil pressure on the stand.

Here is the detecting criteria for P0011 & P0021 from the FSM.

P0011 & P0021 Detecting Criteria.pdf

You are on the right track. Both codes simultaneously would suggest low oil pressure at both OCVs, which could be due to dirty banjo screens or low system pressure. The low pressure light is not useful for diagnostics because its basically a "no pressure" light - you'd need a mechanical gauge for troubleshooting (either a permanent one or a tester). You could also just crack loose the banjo bolt on top of each OCV for a very quick check, though make sure you have a rag handy.

 

 

If you're able to datalog you can monitor the OCV duty cycle and VVT advance for each bank, to see if it is only occurring under specific conditions.

I think that makes you a "centrist".

 

Hey no need for insults!

You can just remove the bracket on the transmission side. My car has been like this since 2015.

I'm thinking may be a piece of silicone mat as a washer may work/help.

 

Or just remove the hanger and drive the car.

 

 

Moore Performance does not put the bracket on their downpipes, or at least that was the case 5-6 years ago when I bought mine. No issues, but still plenty of drivetrain noise with all the other hardened mounts on the car. The crossmember bushings seemed like the most noise for the least benefit, and will be getting switched back when I pull the DCCD unit for a bearing overhaul eventually.

Gun-owning leftist here... we believe in self/community defense and oppose gun control as an expansion of the state’s monopoly on “legitimate” violence.

It would be awesome if we could use the CAN data going to the original clock. I wouldn't know where to start with that at the moment. Hopefully more knowledgeable folks than myself will get hooked into it.

 

Here's my first real mock-up of the screens in place. This is max brightness (spec sheet says 100-120 cd/m^2) and you can see it looks a little purplish due to the polarizer(?) that's attached on the inside of the lens. It looks like the polarizer is heat staked in place, so I'm going to try and remove it next.

 

There was just enough room inside the case to fit the screens and jumper wires. Should be able to massage it a bit as it moves into a finished product.

+1 to what Max Capacity said.

 

 

I've been happy with the Mishimoto quality overall (going on 11 years since installation), plus it has a lifetime warranty, but would prefer the standard size replacement vs. the x-line.

This is all awesome. Where are you thinking of moving the screen to and why? Just curious.

Also funny you mention the desire to make a heat shield for the driver side CV boot. I was thinking the same thing the other day!

 

 

I'm replacing the screen in the stock clock assembly. The main reason is I wanted a stock-looking display of the DCCD lock % output from my MapDCCD controller (which lives in the glovebox cubby, where I can't see its built in LEDs). I then decided I would like to see outside temp, IAT, and the time/date as well. I could get some of these from the Accessport but prefer not to leave it hooked up for regular driving. I already have the STI gauge pack and two AEM gauges flanking the instrument panel, so I was trying to find somewhere discrete to put these. Another member started a thread about doing something similar to display ethanol % from his flex fuel controller. You can follow that here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ethanol-content-sensor-read-outi-284851.html

 

It was also an opportunity to learn something new, which aside from helping my mental health will hopefully help me when I start looking for jobs again. I've been a stay-home parent since 2012 and was in negotiations for a job when COVID happened and pre-k/school were no longer an option for my kiddos.

@solidxsnake - Thanks for the heads up! I'll definitely keep that in mind as I move forward. Is there a free software for board design that you would recommend?

I'm at the point with my clock replacement screen project where I'm finessing the format. Trying to emulate the stock clock/trip computer in look and feel, but with the specific information I want to display.

 

The four tact switches on the breadboard simulate the buttons on the factory clock, so I can toggle the screen modes (from "all on" to "all off" and everything in between) and I can also set the time and date manually without having to reconnect the arduino to my laptop.

 

After this I will be designing a custom PCB to mount the screens to, and to give me contact pads where the stock buttons live. Never made my own board as a hobbyist - should be fun.

 

Also thinking about making a heat shield for the front RH axle boot next time I go under the car. Not just to keep the heat off the CV, but also to contain the grease if the boot ever starts to let go. My downpipe is wrapped and I don't want a fire hazard (or the expense/hassle of re-wrapping it). Cusco makes one for the 6MT though it doesn't quite stick out far enough to cover the boot, and it doesn't seem like it fits the 5MT anyways.