Underdog

I ran into the WG/divider interference before with Invidia DPs and would have suspected that first. In addition to what you and Mike have already discussed, and since the WG arm looks pressed on to the actuator rod you could apply pressure directly to the actuator to see if the WG opens fully (should be closed to 90 degrees).

I have the Mishimoto x-line in 08 STI fitment. I’ve had it for maybe 13-14 years. The thicker core is a bit of a pain and the extra capacity is unnecessary for a street car. The only modification I needed to do was trimming the radiator hoses and clearancing the fan shroud slightly. I would recommend the standard thickness, or the Koyo. Haven’t looked at the price differences recently but I’d lean Koyo if they are in the same ballpark.

Since we're posting Subaru pairs... here's a throwback to 2013. Pup was almost a year old in the pic - he's going on 11 now!

Woof that site is dangerous!

Hey there's no better teacher than experience! Joking aside, at that price and even with the grind repair it should be a good deal. Will be interesting to see the results with your vf52 setup, or whatever you go with down the line.

Now there's a front bumper you don't see often. Always wanted to get my hands on one. Looks great!

The wagons are looking great!

Knock Sensor P/N: 22060AA111 Knock Sensor Installation:

Decided to change the oil & filter, so pulled off the undertray and gave it a quick visual once-over. Everything looks pretty good - definitely would refresh the brakes in the near future and maybe send the Bilsteins in since they are 10y/o now. They still ride great but could use some TLC cosmetically. Warmed up the car - same misfire symptoms although it did idle very nicely for a good 10 minutes once warm, which had me hopeful the B12 had worked through and confirmed a sticky injector. However the misfire returned. Frustrating! Drained the oil and cut open the old filter - pristine. Put on a new Tokyo Roki and filled it up with Rotella T6. Cleaned up the GTspec tray and reinstalled. Now it waits for the injectors and a new OEM O2 sensor. Fingers crossed one of those resolves it because I’m running out of ideas short of pinning out the harness or replacing the ECU. Since I still have the Cobb SF intake box out I decided to look at some ways to seal it up better. It draws a lot of hot air from the engine bay and fender well (the GTspec tray doesn’t seal like OEM). Nothing obvious jumped out so now I’m looking for an OEM STI airbox to try fitting in there. Can’t use an LGT airbox because of the STI MAF. Womp womp!

Only ever been on Mustang dynos so the difference isn’t intuitive to me, but having experienced a few 1.5xtr’s (including my own) I was surprised to see that number on 93 octane. Sorry that it ended catastrophically for you cheeseenlo! When I had my car tuned last I asked for a target boost of 20-21PSI and conservative timing through the midrange. I’m sure that left some on the table, along with other design choices I made, but we ask a lot from pump gas and it’s no fun when it goes wrong.

That's a pretty solid clue right there - if it only happens when the car is cold and moving. I'm assuming you've checked the sensor itself? Tightened it down, looked at the wiring, etc.?

Yes lash was set to the factory spec. 0.2mm intake and 0.35mm exhaust. I only had to do final checks on the engines I built - the machine shop would match the buckets and grind valve stem tips to set the lash. Saved me a ton of time. The spec card below says Procam but is a translation from the opposite side which is in Japanese and has them listed as Poncam - the part numbers are the same on both sides of the card (143062 for the set).

Ouch! But 440whp on 93 octane with your 1.5xtr?! That’s wild.

I think my Legacy is still on the original wheel bearings? Only 90k miles though. I know I did the front bearings and axles on my OBXT, but I don’t think I ever touched them on the LGT. I don’t automatically assume anything off eBay must be junk but there are some things that I wouldn’t try if it were a pain to do it twice. Wheel bearings aren’t too bad if you’re not dealing with a ton of rust, which I’m assuming you’re not with only 27k on them.

Looks great - glad you have it back! I missed the story of the pistons failing on the dyno - were they the original stock pistons? @xt2005bonbon Damn that sucks. Where did you get the hub bearing assembly?

I'm 99% sure it's due to the front O2 sensor being relocated to the downpipe bellmouth on the twinscroll setup. It appears to be a common issue on USDM cars running twinscroll setups (which is not a large pool to begin with, so take that with a grain of salt) - the last tuner I worked with explained that our ECU lacks the delay parameter to deal with the altered location. It's not definitive but I've turned over pretty much every other stone.

I went from the Grimmspeed LWFW to the Fluidampr pulley. My car did not have the stutter/false knock issue but did have a slight pulsing at low-load/steady-rpm cruise that I was hoping it would smooth out, and it did to some effect, although I’ve since discovered the cause elsewhere in the system. The main difference I noticed was a smoother idle (in terms of NVH) and the improved flywheel effect at take-off and in between shifts. I suppose the lessened NVH could contribute to fewer perceived knock events but have nothing to back that up. If you go with the Fluidampr you will need to dremel the timing belt cover to make some clearance. Not a big deal, just fyi.

@seanyb505 I have the Cobb double adjustable STS from wayyyy back. There was a throw adjustment between the pivot and the arm, and then the threaded stem the knob screws onto was also adjustable. I ordered the boot -2.5” from RedlineGoods so that’s probably the rough change from stock. I also took the pic from above the headrest so that might make it look shorter.

No apparent problem with the AVCS - both banks sitting right at 0 degrees during idle while misfiring. No change in symptoms since the other day - cyl #1 near constant at anything under 1500rpm and random intermittent strings on cyl #2. I did sit in the car and watch the O2 and WBO2 while slowly raising and lowering the engine speed - below 1500rpm it stops holding at 14.7 AFR and drops to low 13 before the stumbles start. So right now all I can think is injectors, by process of elimination as well as it making some sense due to the car sitting for long periods of time in between drives. It’s going to be sitting for a couple weeks more while I wait for cheeseenlo’s injectors to get serviced at ID and make their way to me, so I washed it and put it up on stands for an oil change. Sure tugs at the heart strings when it’s all cleaned up .

Congrats on the sale. Beautifully maintained car!

I’ve also boxed up the spare tire, intake manifold, and engine cover for sellers who have since flaked, but the shipping on them was surprisingly reasonable. FYI

Guys I am swimming in leftover parts from the hobby as well as the business, that I’ll never use but can’t throw out. SEND HALP

Good point - ran into that way back when some debris got into my cam sprocket on a previous engine. I’ll do a quick observation of the AVCS angle before I pull the injectors later today.

Factory jack is sold. Rest of the spare tools and organizer are still available.

Yeah I posted up a WTB on NASIOC earlier and got some hits already.