Underdog

Wow you really went all in on the CF! Looks awesome - very clean engine bay. I don’t have any pointers on how to improve fitment of the snorkel, but maybe installing hood struts and removing the prop rod would be an option?

I would check the tension and condition of the v-belts, particularly the one to the power steering pump (towards the passenger side at the front of the engine).

I’m not a fitment guy so I can’t say authoritatively, I run boring 18x7.5 e48 and 17x8 e45 setups with 225 width tires. The 17x8 e45 is ideal, for me. You can see pics of both here (comment dated September 9th, 2011), the 17x8 is at the bottom of the post and is wearing a 225/45 in those pics. At the time the car was on KW/RCE coilovers, but later in the thread I move on to Bilstein coilovers. I’ll spare you further suspension talk other than to ask what is your rear camber adjustment solution? Because the car does not have rear camber adjustment from the factory, so you’ll need adjustable links or the eccentric bushing for the upper lateral link. Whiteline offers both. Per the FAQ you would need an offset of 38mm or less to run a 9.5” wheel without contact. I think you mentioned yours were 40mm. Also the FAQ is about what fits with the caveat of clearing coilover spring perches and with possible fender rolling (in a motor sports scenario), but isn’t about “fitment” per se. However there is lots of good information in the follow-up comments to the thread, and even the original FAQ which is linked at the bottom of the first post. Lastly, remember that actual tire dimensions for a given size vary from one manufacturer to the next, enough that what size fits for one size on one car might not fit another combo. Given your requirements in the OP I would suggest something like a 17x8 e45 RPF1 with a 235/40 or 245/40. Lightweight, plenty of room to adjust alignment, stock gearing and close to stock scrub radius. You could do a 225/45 which will be a little taller and fill the wheel arches better but is going the wrong direction in gearing for autox, where a smaller OD will give you faster acceleration.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_26/steering/oil_pump/ Looks like 34430AE04A or B depending on build date. I didn’t check the difference between manual and automatic (if they’re different at all). Opposedforces is pretty handy and you can check it against the online part lookups.

Have you read the Xenonk FAQ? It will tell you what offset and width will work without interference.

If you want to geek out on something with your car, after taking care of maintenance as suggested above, learning how to detail and do paint correction is a great investment. You will know how to better care for all your cars’ exteriors for years to come.

Looking great! That tar insulation must have been a PAIN - I’ve only removed small areas and it sucked. How much weight do you figure it saved?

@MasAyinde I’m awaiting payment from a buyer on nasioc. Will let you know if it falls through.

Does the finish of the panel match the shifter surround in USDM cars? Can’t quite tell from the pics if it’s the silver color we have, or the charcoal of the JDM double DIN plates I’ve had.

Sounds like a pesky gremlin for sure. Sucks.. hope they get to the bottom of it without too many more of your dollars. That phone mount is slick! Did you drill through your double DIN faceplate to mount it? Lol at the spoiler spoiler

Wow so many awesome pictures and throwbacks to names I haven't heard in many years. If/when I get the BRZ I'll definitely reach out! I'm 2nd in line at my nearest dealer when orders open back up. Just hoping I can find a domestically civil way to make it happen.

Fixed the images in the original post. @subaru-tech can you verify that you used P/N 34430FG040 for the pump? Did you need any other hardware for the install?

Copying this information over from my build thread to make it easier to find. This modification came about when I installed Bride seats in my 2006 Legacy, and needed a way to bypass the occupant detection system and get rid of the airbag light on the dash. The original post was here if you'd like to see info about the Brides elsewhere in that thread, but the ODS Bypass Module and other airbag light information has been reformatted and moved to this thread for clarity. Note: These modifications can affect the operation of your airbag system and if you choose to do it you are doing so at your own risk! Death or serious injury may occur if the airbag system does not function as designed! To summarize, there are three things that must be done to prevent an airbag light with aftermarket seats: 1. Delete the airbags themselves. -> Bend a 3.3ohm resistor as shown below and insert into the airbag plug. Wrap with a quality electrical tape like 3M. 2. Transfer driver's seat position sensor (driver-side only, the sensor picks up a "flag" welded to the seat which disables the airbag when the seat is all the way forward). -> Remove sensor from bottom of seat by drilling out two rivets and unclipping the plug from the metal bracket. Coil up the pigtail and install plug into the floor harness. 3. Transfer occupant detection module and bypass occupant detection sensor. -> See below. Note: This only applies for the MY06-09 which uses a bladder-style ODS; the MY05 uses four load cells which all communicate with the ODS module. For more information on the MY05 and a possible workaround to use the method below, please see 2005 Seat Swap to 2006+ with Full Airbag Function by @Harrimat. The occupant detection module collects the signals from the passenger seat belt receptacle, the side airbag, and the occupant sensor. The module must be removed from the stock seat and plugged into the harness under the new seat. Be careful when drilling out the rivets that secure the ODS Module or you may drill through and pop the bladder in the seat - if you can get something behind the rivet to protect it, all the better. After you've removed the rivets you can unplug the ODS sensor and unclip the module plug from the bracket. The sensor that detects the pressure in the bladder and communicates with the ODS module is a simple active 5V pressure sensor with three pins: 5V input, the signal output ("Vout"), and ground reference (GND). In order to vary the voltage on Vout we will create a switchable voltage divider by putting a resistor of fixed value between the 5V and Vout pins (R1), and resistors of two separate values - let's call them R2(empty) and R2(occupied) - between Vout and GND, with a switch selecting which resistor completes the circuit. To simulate an empty seat R2 must be ~3x the value of R1. To simulate an occupied seat R2 must to be ~1/2 of R1 (the signal varies based on the weight of the person - the following is for a ~160lb person) We can make things easy by selecting a value for R1 of 1kΩ, which means R2(empty) will be 3.3kΩ and R2(occupied) will be 470Ω, all common resistor values. Now we can use a simple SPDT switch (preferably one that is ON-ON, with no OFF position in the middle) to toggle between two resistors for R2. Please see attached wiring diagram. To make this mod plug-and-play I used the following parts: Switch: "Baomain Car Toggle switch SPDT ON-ON 3 Pin 2 Position 12V 25A with waterproof cover for Auto Car" Enclosure: "uxcell Waterproof Plastic Electric Project Case Junction Box (2.3x1.4-Inches, 5pcs)" Connector: "GM Delphi / Packard - 3-Way GT 150 Receptacle Pigtail" (I ordered with 6" of wire on the pigtail and it was enough for my install, however you can order with any length and always cut it to fit.) Otherwise you just need a few resistors and standard electrical work supplies (solder, heatshrink, wire loom, electrical tape, grommet, and hot glue/zipties for strain relief). I used a step drill bit to drill 1/2" holes for both the grommet and switch. To keep things compact I soldered the R2 resistors directly to the terminals of the switch and encased them in hot glue to prevent movement that would lead to fatigue failure or a short circuit. The R1 resistor is soldered to the 5V and Vout wires from the receptacle pigtail, with the white wire connecting the Vout side to the common leg of the switch. Heatshrink everything and tuck it into place. The completed module can now be plugged into the pressure sensor receptacle on the ODS Module harness. 3M double-stick tape was plenty to attach the enclosure to the frame rail of my Bride seat, and I added a ziptie for extra security. With the switch mounted under the seat you can toggle between armed and disarmed, and everything behaves normally. Congratulations - you have completed the ODS bypass modification.

Would you believe that someone offered me a deposit for first right of refusal? (I said no thanks - didn’t feel right.)

Is the TS officially 8cm? I always heard it was somewhere in between but never bothered to check because there was only one option anyways. Either way good to know your expectation of 21psi @ 3300rpm in case I end up putting it back on a dyno at some point for a revision.

Yeah you think so? I never really cared for the first gen but the new one has caught my eye. I like the back-to-basics approach and would enjoy a clean slate. I was going to start throwing go-parts at my Accord but I might just keep it stock - it’s a great car and has a lot of what I always wanted in the Legacy, but FWD and automatic just don’t inspire the same thrill.

Believe me I’m trying! We just went from 4 vehicles to 3 (sold my beater 05 Tacoma) and my wife is very reluctant to any idea that increases the overall number. Gotta say though - the BRZ would look great next to the Legacy in the garage.

In the one dyno chart of my 1.5xtr it hits max (20.1 PSI) right around 3800rpm. The twinscroll hot side is effectively a bit smaller than 10cm^2 so it’s not apples to apples. That said it’s still making over 10PSI at 3000rpm.

Not at all - definitely feeling the love! Unfortunately for some here I am being steadily talked into keeping the car though. @m sprank Beautiful build. Looks like a ton of fun to put together and drive!

Hey well that’s a good bit of info if it was doing it on another DP as well. Follow the actuator breadcrumbs first and keep the WG flapper on the short list of things to follow up on if need be. I hear ya - it’s a pain to do things twice (or more) when you’re chasing down gremlins.

It’s been years since I’ve worked with a stock turbo setup, but I would expect the WG to be opening a full 90 degrees; otherwise the flapper is partially blocking the flow. Did it feel like it was hitting anything when you were moving it by hand? I’d pull the DP again and verify the full range of motion. I don’t recall if there was some difference in the WG setup of the VF52 that made the divider less of an interference for the WRX crowd, or if the problem was across the board with this DP, but again I ran into the interference before (and caught it before sending the car to be tuned). Otherwise what you said about the actuator is also a strong clue. Your WG should be fully open at a pressure below your boost target, and yours is not. Some preload on the WG is desirable to keep it solidly shut, but if you are having to really force it then I would certainly dig deeper as this all would contribute to an overboost situation. You said it was a stock VF46 in the OP but the engine has 3k miles. Possible they replaced the turbo with an ebay unit or similar with questionable components? Do you see any markings on the turbo to indicate origin?

Then girlfriend, now wife of 14 years (the cake sealed the deal ). She made this for my birthday the first year I had the car.

Whew that lineup!

Just passed my cake day - 1/27/06. Hard to imagine it’s been 17 years.

Yup that oil filter cutter looks the same as my Longacre branded one. I cut open all my filters - cars, generator, lawnmower, etc. I have a large aluminum pan to empty it into so I can “pan for gold”… the one time you want to come up empty handed! I got the GTspec undertray back in ~2010 with the JDM bumper swap I bought off of @Aczwild. I forget what they went for new but probably in the $250-300 range. It’s much easier to remove/install than the stock undertray, and far more durable obviously.