-1.9 degrees front camber w/ beefy 16mm Ingalls I-81280

An additional degree of front camber (-1.9 degrees) on stock suspension!

I used the 16mm Ingalls I-81280 camber adjustment bolts in the top position. The nice thing is that this bolt torques to 125 ft-lbs. Unfortunately, the Ingalls Catalog tells folks to use the wrong part (14mm I-81260 that only torques to 77 ft-lbs). So the 81280 is the one to get.

Front: stock w/camber bolts. -1.9 camber, 0 toe.

Rear: stock w/ 21mm cusco rear bar & AVO SB brackets. -0.5 camber. A little toe-in.

Tires: bridgestone re01r (very good tire - comfortable w/ decent grip)

Off-camber constant radius turns have just a little understeer.

Banked turns w/ power is very neutral, possibly mild oversteer.

If you steadily add steering angle going into a turn, you can get the rear loose.

Fweasel: How much is your car lowered, cause my car on stock bolts was only able to get about -0.9 IIRC.

I have the same bolts as the OP for next alignment.

good info. I was able to get -1.5 up front on stock bolts, but my car is lowered which adds static camber.

Give me 5 minutes with your car and I will get you as much negative camber as you want

To the OP - interesting find for the racers out there and for the tire companies

Give me 5 minutes with your car and I will get you as much negative camber as you want

 

To the OP - interesting find for the racers out there and for the tire companies

:lol:

Fweasel: How much is your car lowered, cause my car on stock bolts was only able to get about -0.9 IIRC.

For those interested in the setup -

Front: stock w/camber bolts. -1.9 camber, 0 toe.

Rear: stock w/ 21mm cusco rear bar. -0.5 camber. A little toe-in.

Tires: bridgestone re01r (what a great tire!)

How it drives: constant radius turns have just a little understeer. If you steadily add steering angle going into a turn, you can get the rear loose. relatively little understeer under power. Might be a little too tail happy for high speeds, but great for tight turns.

thanks for the info on the camber bolts, i'll give them a try. if you still have the stock shocks/springs you should get the rear sway bar brackets.

My car was at -1.3 Camber up front, just after dropping it on Swifts. After my most recent alignment the tech had set the front to -0.8. There seemed to be a noticeable difference in how tight the front end felt (-1.3 feeling much "grippier"), even though I never took it to the limit.

rexster: great avatar, I have that album hanging up in my den.

The outside edges of my tires keep wearing out perhaps due to a defective steering wheel controller. Maybe more neg camber will help. Btw, I also had an e36 M3. Loved it, but not as much as the Legacy Wagon. M3 wagon might be what I need.

rexster: great avatar, I have that album hanging up in my den.

yeah, too bad their other albums are no where near as good...

those are money shots!!!

what are your suspension mods fellow wagon brothern?

This could help your rear track adjustments.

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98132

Any issues with these slipping on you yet? i need more negative camber up front, my outside edges are wearing at a much faster rate.

Not that I can tell, and the alignment shop was pretty confident of the setup. I'd tend to agree with them because the bottom bolt is stock (non eccentric) , and the top bolt has a more eccentric cam, but it still torques close to stock amount.

I'd be worried about slipping with a 14mm bolt in the top position. Even more so with a second cam in the bottom position.

Not that I can tell, and the alignment shop was pretty confident of the setup. I'd tend to agree with them because the bottom bolt is stock (non eccentric) , and the top bolt has a more eccentric cam, but it still torques close to stock amount.

 

I'd be worried about slipping with a 14mm bolt in the top position. Even more so with a second cam in the bottom position.

Very cool thanks for the info.