Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Legacy GT Wagon Track Setup


Paisan

Recommended Posts

Just wanted to throw out some info for folks with LGTs interested in tracking their cars. I've been tracking Subies for a long while, and recently (about a year ago) started to track my 05 LGT 5MT Wagon.

Started with it completely stock and slowly modded it to where it's currently in decent track shape. Anyway these small mods really helped to tighten the car up on track.

 

AVO:

LCA Offset Bushings

 

Whiteline:

Front & Rear Sway Bars

Steering Rack Bushings

Front Strut Tower Bar

Roll Center Adjusters (Tie Rod Ends, Ball Joints)

Rear Diff Inserts

 

Kartboy:

Endlinks

Rear Subframe Bushings

 

Koni:

Sport Adjustable Struts

 

Subaru:

Group N Motor Mounts

Group N Front Strut Mounts (With SS Washer from Loews for Fitment)

STi Pink Wagon Springs

SPT Catback Exhaust

04 STi Wheels

 

Teknafit:

SS Brake Lines

 

DBA:

DBA 4000 Rotors Front & Rear

 

Hawk:

Hawk HP+ Pads Front & Rear

 

Dunlop:

Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec

 

Items that are still yet to be installed but planned for this car which doubles as a daily driver are:

Karboy 5MT Shifter bushing and mounts

Group N Transmission Mount

Catless UP/DP (not sure which yet)

Cobb AP

External Oil Cooler

Crawford Baffles for Oil Pan

Brembo Calipers Front & Rear

Brake Ducts

 

 

http://www.tracktimephotos.com/large/2009/20090404_LRP_INS_0347.jpg

http://www.tracktimephotos.com/large/2009/20090404_LRP_INS_0359.jpg

http://www.tracktimephotos.com/large/2009/20090404_LRP_INS_0360.jpg

http://www.tracktimephotos.com/large/2009/20090404_LRP_INS_0370.jpg

http://www.tracktimephotos.com/large/2009/20090404_LRP_INS_0382.jpg

 

-mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 144
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Are those group N strut mounts impreza? and is that why you needed a washer?

 

No, the impreza group N top mounts won't work (02-07 Impreza that is) because the spread of the studs is different. These are Group N Top mounts for the Impreza. They need a washer because they are thinner bearings, a stock or stock replacement strut stud will run out of threads before snugging down on the strut top. With the washer, it allows the nut to snug down on the bearing w/o running out of threads.

 

The Group N strut tops will work fine on the Spec B Bilstiens or the JDM Bilstiens but not on most if not all USDM replacement struts (Koni, KYB, etc).

 

Hope this helps, ask more or followup questions, I have pics of the washer somewhere if yah need to know what size etc.

 

-mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh OK. that does help.

 

Do you have any in car videos? I'd like to see how the mounts and exhaust sound. I autocross and I'm thinking of the same sort of setup. I'm trying to pay off the car before going for mods, though, so it'll be awhile before I start doing stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh OK. that does help.

 

Do you have any in car videos? I'd like to see how the mounts and exhaust sound. I autocross and I'm thinking of the same sort of setup. I'm trying to pay off the car before going for mods, though, so it'll be awhile before I start doing stuff.

 

The NVH is but a bit, but mostly due to the tires and the Konis on full-stiff than anything else. With my winter tires and Konis on soft, the NVH isn't too bad.

 

-mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^You should come back up for the PCA event on the 25th and 26th ;)

 

Does PCA let non Porsches run? Last I remember they only allowed Porsches and guests of porsche owners run... :(

 

-mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I just swapped out the front calipers for STi Brembo Calipers along with generic 04 STi Rotors. Also put in HP+ on all 4 corners. We'll see how the rotors survive. I've got 3 track days coming up May 2 at Pocono East, May 4-5 at Watkins Glen.

I'll keep you guys posted.

 

-mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll be interested to know how the HP+ hold up at the Glen. I expect that they'll get cooked at the end of the front and back straights after a few laps.

 

Last year I ran HP+ with my stock calipers and didn't cook them. Of course I was also running on 3.5 cylinders (cracked ringland on cylnder #4 100 psi v. 165psi) so we'll see, if they don't hold up I'll be going to the DT-30s I think.

 

-mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^I'm just basing that assumption on how well the Carbotech Panther Plus performed for me last time (and assuming that the HP+ are similar). I ended up going with DTC-60 / 70 Rear / Front this time around. We'll see how that turns out... though a lot of it depends on your driving style too. I like to carry speed into the turn, braking late. I think I pretty much overdrove the Pather's doing that. I'm hoping the DTC's can hold up better to the high heat
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm traditionally a very late breaker. When I raced my 96 Impreza L w/137hp, I used to break at or after the bridge after the front straight at LRP! So ever since that I always try to late brake!

 

-mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive been autocrossing my Wagon the past two years but am going to start tracking it (used to several years ago in a modded BMW and earlier in an early Rabbit GTI). I have a question, Currently running DBA 4000 and Hawk HPS. Don't think they will hold at all on the track. Can I just change out the fronts for the event (get track day pads just like I have track day tires). Should I stick with Hawk pads for bed in purposes ? Would I be able to get away with fronts only?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive been autocrossing my Wagon the past two years but am going to start tracking it (used to several years ago in a modded BMW and earlier in an early Rabbit GTI). I have a question, Currently running DBA 4000 and Hawk HPS. Don't think they will hold at all on the track. Can I just change out the fronts for the event (get track day pads just like I have track day tires). Should I stick with Hawk pads for bed in purposes ? Would I be able to get away with fronts only?

 

Yes, you can do fronts only. You'll have a little higher torque bias in the front, but it probably won't be a big deal. Last time out I just kept the HPS's on the back.

 

As for pad brands, go with whatever you'd like. It's not going to make much of a difference either way imo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending on how advanced you are, you can probably get away with the HPS depending on the track you run, if your car is stock. I'd give the Hawk HP+ a try in the front and see how that goes. Then from there you can move up if need be to a more beefier front pad. Keep an eye on the DBA 4000s, as I was running HP+ with the DBA 4000s and started to develop hairline radial cracks in mine that I wasn't real comfy with running on the track.

 

There is another member on here working on a template for part-time-use brake ducts as well, that I will give a shot, as the cooling is key for the rotors longevity.

 

-mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input, I would be interested in brake ducts as well. I'll be running an event in Homestead MIami speedway in early May. At stage 2 and hopefully I'll have my Koni's by then. Thinking going to DCT 70's in front. Should I run my Kuhmo V 710's at lower pressures compared to Autocross? Currently run them 37 Psi fronts and 35 Psi rears.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use