MOMSWGN

I took the STI quads off my wagon. They were too loud for me after the work I had done on the car. On a stock car they were perfect.

For self-leveling you need to install a sensor on the driver's side of the car. More work. I have JDM lights with USDM shields; as you can see from the video the pattern is correct and the cutoff is sharp.

Are those parts available in the US? Pics?

Special thanks to Andivic for getting the lights and switch, and for labeling the wires JDM HID and Headlight Leveler Walkthrough 1. Remove OEM headlights. Remove grill and bumper as per this walkthrough: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57598&highlight=bumper+walkthrough. Unbolt head light brackets. Unplug main harness and turn light harness. Remove pop-it and bolt on top of head light housing. Pull the headlight housing out. 2.Install JDM HID housing. The JDM ones do not have the side prong to stick into the receptacle. 3.Connect the main harness. The turn light harness is too big for the JDM housing, so you either have to modify the housing or use the JDM socket part number 84931AG000. You probably need to order the corresponding bulb p/n 84920KE020. To make the parking/city light work you need to get p/n 84981AG190 and 784920080 or rig something up and connect to the main harness. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b13/type_96/electronic/head_lamp/illustration_1/ 4.The roller switch has 4 wires controlling the leveling function and 2 for illumination. The four wires are +12v, driver, passenger, and ground. The illumination wires are +12v and ground. I connected the two grounds together and tapped into the closest ground. The +12v for the illumination I tapped into the illumination on the folding mirror switch (wire going in to pin 14, see the folding mirror walkthrough). For the +12v for the leveler I tapped into a switched +12v I had running to my radar detector. http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/MOMSWGN/Picture162.jpg http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/MOMSWGN/Picture163.jpg 5.Connect wires to the driver and passenger wires from the rolling switch and run them into the engine bay. I ran them behind the headunit and out the main wire harness grommet. http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/MOMSWGN/Picture158.jpg http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/MOMSWGN/Picture157.jpg 6.The leveling motors have three wires, +12v, ground and signal from the rolling switch. Run the wires from the interior compartment to the corresponding headlight housing and connect to the corresponding wire. http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/MOMSWGN/Picture155.jpg http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/MOMSWGN/Picture156.jpg 7.I used local grounding points and connected to the ground wires of the leveling motors. I tapped into the +12v I had going to my Hella horns to connect to the +12 wires of the motors. 8.Tidy up with zip ties and you are done. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_TkkakMqak]YouTube - Gen 4 Subaru Legacy with JDM HIDs with Leveling[/ame]

The guy that bought those mirrors last year still has them on a shelf in his garage.

I like to be able to fold the mirrors in the car before pulling into a tight space. Folding them after I get out of the car is less important to me.

It is an add on module you connect to the mirrors.

Once you do the mirrors you can add this: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuoJvk92rFM]YouTube - liberty[/ame]

I know they pivot, but would rather not have any damage. I'll off set the effects of the mirrors by me losing some weight and setting my seating height lower

It does improve the performance of my wagon when my mirrors aren't ripped off when backing out of a tight spot.

Wow a compliment from rao. You made my day.

I'm keeping the STi side sills, I've sold the OEM ones.

Not much, about $275 with button shipped from Japan. Contact andivic.

No man, we'll raise the bar together. This also is partly your project.

It is never enough. I'm working on my next project now.

Special thanks to Andivic and unclemat The JDM wiring diagrams did not contain any information about the folding mirrors, so I had to take the button apart and also do some continuity testing, as well as a little thinking. JDM Folding Outer Mirrors Walkthrough 1) Remove front door cards and the interior cover to outer mirrors (as per post#9 and #10 of http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103658). Unscrew the three bolts holding the outer mirror (one of which is covered with a plastic cover). Remove the USDM outer mirror. http://i43.tinypic.com/25zm7tz.jpg 2)Disassemble JDM mirrors a.Heat the black trim around mirrors (about 2 minutes) and very carefully remove the mirrors by prying the mirrors up with a couple of small flat head screwdrivers. Mirrors are held on with black adhesive. If the JDM mirrors have the heated option, disconnect the two wires and skip to #3. b.Unscrew central screw and remove mirror base. http://i44.tinypic.com/fmt1zq.jpg c.Unscrew bolts holding mirror motor mount (not the bolts holding the motor to the mount) and signal lens. http://i42.tinypic.com/snge9l.jpg d.Take off the scalp cap and unscrew the bolts holding the signal lens and bolts holding the mirror motor mount from the outside and disconnect the blinker harness. http://i43.tinypic.com/zyhlc8.jpg e.Unscrew the 4 bolts at the hinge of the mirror http://i44.tinypic.com/1zgxoa0.jpg f.Pop out the plastic rectangular cover on the medial side of the mirror housing. Remove the folding motor assembly from the side mirror housing. http://i41.tinypic.com/fwo9zr.jpg g.Run two wires down the harness for the heated mirrors and terminate in insulated female quick connects on the mirror side. Reassemble the outer mirror leaving the JDM mirrors off. 3)Remove USDM mirror (as described above) and assemble on JDM mirror base after connecting the wires for the heated mirrors (does not matter which wire goes where). 4)Put the side mirrors back on the car. I wanted to keep the car’s wiring intact, so I cut the side mirror harness #2 and #5 wires and tapped in the two wires for the heated mirrors onto the stubs left on the plug. The #2 and #5 wires to the mirror are the brown (fold) and gray (unfold). I connected these wires to some 22 gauge wires (red and green). http://i42.tinypic.com/wagewn.jpg 5)Remove the plastic trim under the steering wheel (2 pop-its and plastic push piece for the lower piece and a screw in the lower right-hand side and several clips for the upper piece). Remove the plastic trim medial to the side sill (pull up hard) and then the plastic side cover below the hood release and corresponding piece on the passengers side. http://i40.tinypic.com/hrdhnc.jpg http://i44.tinypic.com/314uzww.jpg 6)Pop off the rubber grommets of the rubber loom at the hinge of the door. Make a cut on the rubber where it enters the door past the upper grommet. 7)Run the wires down the door, through the hole in the door and into the cut in the rubber, and down the loom. Run the wire into the cabin through a hard plastic inlet. A greased coat hanger is useful for this. Repeat for the other door. http://i43.tinypic.com/2qm25jt.jpg http://i38.tinypic.com/14bp5w2.jpg http://i40.tinypic.com/mcw7b8.jpg 8)Run the wires to the driver’s side and tap the brown wires together; repeat for the gray. 9)Run a +12v wire to the driver’s side. I used an add-a-circuit and used the door lock fuse (top row, third from the left), this is a constant +12V as I wanted to be able to fold and unfold the mirrors without have a key in the ignition. http://i41.tinypic.com/oswizs.jpg 10)The +12v wire goes into the #4 position in the harness. Brown goes into #11, gray in #12, and run a ground into #13 of the harness. Plug the harness to the JDM button assembly. http://i42.tinypic.com/mszcy.jpg In this picture (below) the red wire is constant+12v, the green is ground, and the two wires pointing down are tapped into the brown and gray from the mirrors. http://i41.tinypic.com/f0bsc5.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/2ll23qw.jpg 11)Reassemble all trim pieces. Make sure you get 4 OEM wire connectors to fit into the harness. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsWXG9XEwC8]YouTube - Gen IV Subaru Legacy GT JDM folding mirrors[/ame]

I say do it and post some pictures. We all need a good laugh.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn16/MOMSWGN/DSC00309.jpg

TRS, You, sir, are the man!

Finally had some time to look it over. Looked at the wiring diagrams and the OP is 100% correct. I found that my original tap was no good. Re-did the hook up and everything works like a charm. The brown wire does run by the passenger's side by the sunroof and then down the A pillar. Would suggest that one looks at the OP's picture of the soldering on the map light switch terminals. I pried up one side of the little pyramid(/I\), sliped my hookup wire between the side and the middle portion and soldered to lock them in. Doesn't take much time to heat.

Anybody? I was thinking that since the blue wire in the dome light is always hot, the switch is gooing to be on the ground. This maybe the problem. I'm going to go check.

Need some help. I did this mod as described, tapped into the middle (brown) wire from the dome, soldered the connections, used diodes with the grey bands facing away from the map light switch, and switched the two wires going to the map lights in the connector ( blew the #8 fuse doing this). When I tested it, the dome lights come on when I open the door, but the map lights do not. The map lights still function independently. I went back with a multimeter and found that the brown wire in the dome was not hot, but the blue one was. The blue wire is also hot when the doors are closed. I tested the wire that I ran from the blue wire in the dome and it is hot at the soldering point on the map light switches. Any comments or suggestions would be helpful. Other than blowing the #8 fuse the lights function normally. Thanks.

AVOjdm.com also has them

^PM Japanparts.com

^That is correct. 08 JDM STi comes in 17X7.5 and 18X7.5 in the above finishes. That HK SWP wagon is hot. Anybody with photoshop skills that can put these babies on a BSM wagon. Please.