Mojo2434 Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 So to make sure I understand you guys, it sounds like I need the following: -new small block -replace valves (4 or 8) -new single mass flywheel -new clutch -new TSK3 TOB kit -grease starter shaft -remove banjo filter -tune And then from reading Max Capacity's thread I could also look into: -oil pick up tube -oil filters (3 of them?) -new crossover pipe -new coolant hoses -replace orange o-rings with TGVs -DEI wrap on the up/dn pipes -heater hoses -TB hose -intake hose -new buckets -valve cover water hoses And there is probably more but after like 12 pages my head was spinning. So do I have that right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mojo2434 Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 i just went through a similar situation. I ended up purchasing another vehicle with the 5K and dealing with parting out my lgt. I had other priorities at the time than to fix up my lgt. Do what ever is financially smart and go from there. Yeah that's basically the other option I'm considering...but man I love this car. And parting out a car is way over my head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 So to make sure I understand you guys, it sounds like I need the following: -new small block -replace valves (4 or 8) -new single mass flywheel -new clutch -new TSK3 TOB kit -grease starter shaft -remove banjo filter -tune And then from reading Max Capacity's thread I could also look into: -oil pick up tube -oil filters (3 of them?) -new crossover pipe -new coolant hoses -replace orange o-rings with TGVs -DEI wrap on the up/dn pipes -heater hoses -TB hose -intake hose -new buckets -valve cover water hoses And there is probably more but after like 12 pages my head was spinning. So do I have that right? No water hoses on valve covers just new beather hoses, honestly, not sure you need them. Any good rubber hose would work, from the auto parts store. The coolant hoses are better to replace when the engine is out then in 3/4 years from now when it's cold out and you lost your coolant because a hose cracked. My intake hose was torn so that' why I replaced it. If your is good leave it there. Don't forget the oil return hose from the turbo. I did mine the year before for the new turbo. The oil filters are for the first few oil changes, after 20 minutes of the first start up, then 500 miles then 1000 more miles then 1500 more miles. Then I went to 3000+mile OCI. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mojo2434 Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 OK. Thanks for your patience btw:) In your thread you mentioned having done a lot of work prior to your engine rebuild - vf52, tranny rebuild, read diff, new starter. Are those issues I should be concerned about in the next 25k-50k miles? They sound expensive and if they are likely to pop up it would impact my decision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mojo2434 Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 All these threads I've been reading talk about replacing the turbo, and most of them did it well before 140,000 miles...which means I'm probably due for one, right? I did ask the mechanic about it. Sounds like they gave it a brief look and were surprised at how good of shape its in, whatever that means. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Some of my issues were caused by either me or just a fluk, not many of these cars have rear diff issues. If your mechanic is saying your turbo is good, that's great, see if he can show you why he thinks that. It will be good for you to learn. with good oil and care 140k mile should be fine for the turbo. learn how it sounds, when the sound changes, replace it. don't wait till it blows and takes out the engine. My car was on dino oil for the first 154k, now it's on Amsoil European 5w-40 full SAPS with 5-6000 mile OCI. I tend to coast whenever I can and let the idle or drive slow after a long hard drive on the highway, IMO that's good for the turbo. The DEI heat wrap is good for the turbo and also keeps heat away from the CV boot. Though I never hada issue with my catless down pipe heating up the boot. Hey may be that's because I coast a lot and drive slow after a long hard drive.... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-lo Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 I replaced my first at 98k. was concerned about its condition. turned out a probably could've gone longer on it. second one had 115k or so on i when i replaced it. it probably would've lasted another week or two. I drive 60miles a day 5 days a week. sometimes more. replace oil every 3-4k and use 5w30. 258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serb Legacy GT Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 It includes labor but 4500 is an estimate so no doubt it will be 5k in the end. When I dropped the car off I asked the dealer to look for other maintenance/upgrades but they didn't come back with any. Would the oil pump, timing kit, etc. be standard for me right now? I really appreciate the help guys. Flying blind is no fun. I would say replace the oil pump for sure (why put a 140k mile oil pump on a new engine, it's only $125 shipped for a new one). If you have never done a timing belt then for sure you need to do it. If you have done it, it's a toss up. Again, with all the work being done it's not a bad idea and you're set for another 100k. I imagine you would save on labor. And with the engine being new, best to go with new plugs...not necessary by any means, but you might as well go with new plugs in a new motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serb Legacy GT Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 All these threads I've been reading talk about replacing the turbo, and most of them did it well before 140,000 miles...which means I'm probably due for one, right? I did ask the mechanic about it. Sounds like they gave it a brief look and were surprised at how good of shape its in, whatever that means. Your mechanic will be able to have a good look at the turbo and see. If it sounds and feels good, has no leaks, and has no shaft play, you should be fine. It's another one of those where it would not be a bad thing to replace, but it would also add a significant cost. Over the long run though, especially if you want to keep the car another 140k miles, it may be worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mojo2434 Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 I just got off the phone with the dealer and they think a new TSK3 TOB kit is not necessary since I'm not looking to boost performance beyond stock. He said the same thing when I asked about a tune. Thoughts? I was under the impression these steps were more for preventative maintenance rather than performance. I mean, more performance would be great but I don't want to pay extra for it right now. Regarding the banjo filter, should that be permanently removed? The dealer said they normally just clean and replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 The TSK3 kit is a preventative maintenance item. The tune is also a preventative maintenance item. No dealer will tell you the car is less then perfect from the factory, but it's common knowledge that stock tune can cause burnt valves. I'm sure the dealer will not cover a warranty if the banjo filters are removed. Just ask them to please grind down the head on the front banjo bolt so it can be removed without having to pull the timing belt cover. HAMMERDOWN has a DIY on how to do that. My new ej257 has no banjo filters. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 HAMMERDOWN has a DIY on how to do that. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1326330&postcount=158 These car will last cars last a long time if well maintained. Good read. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reliability-modifications-178342.html?t=178342&highlight=reliability My best advise for the longevity of you motor & turbo. In short, check you oil level often & top as needed. Use whatever oil & filter that will protect for the OCI's your running. OA's is the only way you know that your oil & filter is up for the challenge. After that IMO no OA's are needed. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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