xt2005bonbon Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Cool. So how many valve lifters did you have to change? And how much was the bill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 None On ones that are too tight they cut/grind the bottom side of the bucket to create more clearance I believe. Saves a lot of $. Can't do that if clearance is too high though obviously. They have been doing all the subaru heads for a local speed shop this way for many years (hundreds of heads) with no problems they claim. Total bill was the expected $250. This included figuring out which bucket went with each valve since when I flipped the head over they all dumped out in a pile (oops)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 None On ones that are too tight they cut/grind the bottom side of the bucket to create more clearance I believe. Saves a lot of $. Can't do that if clearance is too high though obviously. They have been doing all the subaru heads for a local speed shop this way for many years (hundreds of heads) with no problems they claim. Total bill was the expected $250. This included figuring out which bucket went with each valve since when I flipped the head over they all dumped out in a pile (oops)! Nice! I spent $325 alone on the valve lifters . I kept the old ones for future builds though . Good luck with the rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 I had most of the day yesterday to work in the garage. I think I have about 95% of the pre-installation assembly completed (from intake to exhaust, new timing belt, etc), which I feel great about. I had to re-do things a couple times since I'm not familiar with the boxer layout and I'd "assemble myself into a corner". I finally got most of the jigsaw-puzzle of houses/electrical connectors back together though. I guess I didn't need about 95% of the gasket kit I ordered, but it was good peace of mind. After I get the engine back in the car I'll install the power steering, a/c compressor, alternator, radiator, and top with fluids. I "think" that’s about it. I am hoping to chip away at it enough this week (evenings after the kids are sleeping) that the car is on the road at some point this coming holiday weekend. The only head scratcher I have so far is a single stray electrical connector I'm not sure where it goes. Once I get the engine back in the car it might find a home though. Making progress though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Ok, I'm getting really close. Everything is in the engine bay minus turbo inlet, downpipe, radiator, tmic, and verifications of little items. I am completely STUCK on this stray male electrical connector though. It’s a 2-pin connector (circled in picture) that comes off the main engine harness that runs across the back of the intake manifold. It sure seems like it should plug into the pcv valve (white connector) but I thought for sure the pcv white connector was unused. Any ideas before I cross post this to a dozen other threads/forums???? Edit... I now suspect this is the pcv connector... read that its supposed to be hooked up after all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 22, 2013 Moderators Share Posted May 22, 2013 Does that connect to a dongle on the boost control solenoid? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Do that connect to a dongle on the boost control solenoid? I don't think so... I think its the same connector described in this thread which turned out to be the pcv connector? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/unknown-electrical-connector-near-turbo-200095.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Apparently, there is a connector for the PCV.. Note sure if it is the one you're showing though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 And it is indeed a 2-pin connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 That has got to be it. It fits the pcv valve properly and is the right length. I could have sworn I didn't remove a connector from my pcv though. I'd really hate to have to tear everything back apart for a connector so I'll try the pcv and see what happens Hope to fire it up tonight or tomorrow! Honestly I've pulled a few different 4 and 6-cylidner engines and the boxer was easier than any transverse-mounted engine I've pulled. Granted removing the heads was another story! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Then, you should keep the car after it is fixed then . Don't forget to take a break once in a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Then, you should keep the car after it is fixed then . Don't forget to take a break once in a while. We'll see. I'll still need something bigger eventually. 2 car seats and 3 adults are a TIGHT squeeze and pretty rough for cross-country trips though we've done it a couple times already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 Well I got it running on Friday and drove it home from the garage on Saturday. After a couple "oh crap" moments were I forgot a simple connector or hose it appears to be running really well. I have a very intermittent stumble at idle that I suspect might be the old coil I re-installed so I'll put the new one back on. I still have 95% of my gasket kit left so I'll probably sell the remnants. I got my coolant leak fixed at the turbo which was simply just a bad clamp so that’s great to have fixed. The only new issue is a very light smell of burning oil that I only notice after coming to a stop after driving hard for a while. If I quickly pop the hood I can see faint smoke coming from the right front head area (see picture for area). It seems to have diminished significantly in the day or so I've been driving, so it could just be oil (or penetrating oil) that had soaked the catalytic convertor burning off but I suspect I might have a faint mystery leak. I removed the belly pan and can't see any signs of leaking from anywhere on that side (and the only thing I removed from that side of the engine was the valve cover that I remember anyway). Feeling around the head with the engine cold I can't find any leaks… are there any common oil leak locations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 From what I gather, those valve covers are prone to leak a bit if not installed properly. I'd keep an eye on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 Yeah, first thing on my to-do list one of these nights (if the weather improves) is to verify all the valve cover bolts are tight. If that doesn't fix it then I'll attempt to remove it with the engine in-car and re-rtv it (gaskets are new). At least both sides aren't leaking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 Some more progress. Swapping out to the original fuel injector on #2 cured a slight miss at idle that was bugging me. Now the car runs smooth. I used a can of brake-clean to remove the last remnants of oil residue on the underside of the engine from assembly and I'm not noticing the faint burning oil smell anymore, so "maybe" that is fixed now too (will pay closer attention in the coming days). After brake-cleaning I drove the car for a day and last night (with the engine cool) I put on a rubber glove and from underneath the car (with the undertray removed) I ran my hand everywhere along the block/head/turbo/oil pan/filter housing/etc and there is no sign of an oil leak anywhere. That’s good news, I might be back in business! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Awesome. I'd run an LV to see how the car is running from the ECU perspective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Thanks for the update, let us know... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 Awesome. I'd run an LV to see how the car is running from the ECU perspective. Yep, I pulled one before the injector swap (below) and I'll do another one tonight or tomorrow. Car is running a LOT better now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 OP, how's the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Running well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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