Boost_addict Posted April 16, 2013 Author Share Posted April 16, 2013 I once noticed some crud in my intake once, but I think it was condensation crap from my compressor after I accidently blew off my home depot leak-testing cap with the intake still pressurized. After cleaning that up I've never found oil in the intake again. Would be a simple thing to try though. On the injector topic... Comparing my spare fuel injector to the ones on the car, my spare is missing a black cap that looks like it might be a fuel pressure test port? I assume I can just pop the cap off my old one and swap onto the spare (see picture)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 On the injector topic... Comparing my spare fuel injector to the ones on the car, my spare is missing a black cap that looks like it might be a fuel pressure test port? I assume I can just pop the cap off my old one and swap onto the spare (see picture)? I believe you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted April 16, 2013 Author Share Posted April 16, 2013 On my way home from work tonight idling at a traffic light I got another #2 misfire. All my coil juggling didn't change the misfire location which is interesting. I swapped the spare injector into #2 and it doesn't appear to be idling much if any better. I'll have to wait for the engine to get cold before I start it up and drive again to verify. I guess I can remove the new OEM coil and save it for later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 Too bad. Then if the CEL reappears in #2, it'll be time for valve clearance check. Sorry man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 Misfire on #2 is back again. Damn. For < $40 I'm going to try the PCV assembly this weekend if the part arrives at my local stealer in time. Nothing else I can think of to try. Good write up on the PCV starting here:http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2998097&postcount=91 This thread would have been good initially, but I think I've covered most everything already: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2318069 Checking valve clearance sounds like the next big step. Assuming clearance is bad the engine will have to come out anyway, so I should probably plan for that, which means finding a new DD first and doing the work myself. I don't trust shops with anything this specialized, not even the shop that verified my compression #'s. I saw a couple big threads that had info on pulling engines... is there a "best condensed version" with engine pulling tips? I've done several other vehicles but never a boxer or auto trans. Ugh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 Are there any reputable subaru vendors that offer properly re-built stock core heads that are ready to swap (valve clearance pre-set, etc)? Trying to think of things that would help expedite the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lccl Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 My car has been doing the same thing recently and I stumbled upon your thread while searching. Looks like it will be FUN to narrow this down. I have a 5EAT, and I've noticed when I'm just rolling and have my wheel cranked one direction, that the idling lowers even more and I thought it was going to die a couple times. Have you noticed any difference when you have the wheel cranked? Also mine doesn't seem to be a hot/cold thing but almost all the time thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 My car has been doing the same thing recently and I stumbled upon your thread while searching. Looks like it will be FUN to narrow this down. I have a 5EAT, and I've noticed when I'm just rolling and have my wheel cranked one direction, that the idling lowers even more and I thought it was going to die a couple times. Have you noticed any difference when you have the wheel cranked? Also mine doesn't seem to be a hot/cold thing but almost all the time thing It may be a power steering related issue. You should avoid locking your wheel in either direction. I believe you put some stress on the PS pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 My current plan is to start pulling the engine next weekend. I'll then check valve clearance and if bad pull them for rebuilds. I had looked for some cores to rebuild in advance but haven't found anything clean and cheap. I have pulled lots of transverse engines with manual transmissions, but never a longitudinal with an auto, so I'm a little nervous about the whole thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Another forum member just had his heads rebuilt. It was not that bad money wise. Got the heads back from the machine shop today. MAN do they look good. They were cleaned, milled, guides checked, valve job with both cylinder 1 valves replaced, new seals, ports thoroughly cleaned, the whole shabang. Total bill out the door was $558 with $130 of that being valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 I've had lots of heads rebuilt so thats not my concern. My concern is how long it takes to get machine work done. I have to borrow or get a rental car for the project so getting everything done fast is urgent. I have a truck but its not kid-seat friendly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 I'm prepping my garage tomorrow for engine removal a week from today. Sounds pretty straightforward compared to some engines I've removed. I'm actually "hoping" for a straightforward exhaust valve problem at this point so I can just repair the car and get back on the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 Long busy day yesterday. Got the engine out. http://www.northbendtech.com/wayne_k/subaru/engine/engine-out.JPG The left head is off (the one with constant cyl 2 misfire). I’m glad I pulled it when I did (not that I had much of a choice since had started to run really really rough). Valve clearances measured on the left head… Intake: 0.178, 0.178, 0.203, 0.203 (spec is 0.14 -0.24 mm) Exhaust:0.305, 0.038, 0.330, 0.254 (spec is 0.345 -0.355 mm) Clearances on the right head… Intake: 0.203, 0.203, 0.203, 0.203 (spec is 0.14 -0.24 mm) Exhaust: 0.356, 0.330, 0.330, 0.305 (spec is 0.345 -0.355 mm) I could barely get my thinnest feeler gauge between the bucket and cam on the cyl #2 valve that’s the problem!!! Head picture shows the valve culprit. The bad valve is black instead of the gray color of the other exhaust valves. I’ll probably buy a new valve for this one rather than risk grinding it. http://www.northbendtech.com/wayne_k/subaru/engine/head.JPG It was a bear pulling the cam sprockets on the left head, even looping the old timing belt trick. I had a 4-foot breaker bar with a ½” drive 10mm socket and I couldn’t keep the engine stand still. At this point I’m not even planning to remove the right head due to the hassle factor. I’ll get the left head cleaned up and put it all back together. My biggest “oh shit” moment is when I flipped the head on its side to look at the valves and all the buckets fell out in a pile. Then I remembered that most/many of these would have to be replaced with a valve job anyway. I probably created more work but oh well. I’m assuming I can measure the clearance between the valve stem tip and cam base circle to back-calculate the necessary bucket thickness (based on nominal clearance target of 0.35mm)? I need to finish tearing down the left head and clean it up for the machine shop. At least the cylinder walls look great! Oh, and what a mess the OEM plastic intake manifold and 10,000 hoses/wires are on top of this engine! Hope I remember where it all goes (took a few pictures in the process). I'll probably try to "simplify" a few things when re-assembling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Good job my man. Nice pictures. Yep, so tight valve clearance issue once again. Man, in the past 2 months, there were like at least 5 or more LGT/OBXTs on the forum which got the same issues. Mine was one of them. In my case, I had to change 8 valve lifters (buckets). Just got the car back today. Feels so good!! Good luck. You'll get it fixed in no time . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Nice job! If the engine stand wants to tip over when you are removing the cam bolts, sometimes a 2x4 cut to size so one end goes on the floor and the other end fits right against the bottom of the head will keep it from moving anywhere. BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 I just priced out the bare minimum gaskets I'd need to rebuild. Re-using most of the exhaust gaskets and such it would be ~ $180-190 plus shipping at FBP after nice discount. No thanks, I'll just get the full gasket/seal kit for $214 so I don't miss anything little I might need... I can always re-sell things like valve keepers, etc if I don't use them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 I deleted my previous post. I read yours too fast. In any case, as you know I bought the full gasket kit as well plus the following exhaust gaskets 44022AA150 44022AA160 44022AA170 44022AA180 44011FA020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Dropped off the bad head at the machine shop today. I forgot the cams at home (dohh). They are going to clean/fix the head up for me, measure clearances, and get everything back in spec as a package deal (they do a lot of these subaru heads for a local shop). Hopefully have it done a week from today (but I'll plan on 2 weeks since nothing happens that fast IMO). Hoping for the verbally estimated price of $200 parts included! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Hoping for the verbally estimated price of $200 parts included! That's a pretty good price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 I wonder why we aren't using bore scopes to see inside cylinders as regular 'inspection' to problems? Your valve problem could have been spotted right away with such a tool. I'm waiting on compression info before I consider my options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 I wonder why we aren't using bore scopes to see inside cylinders as regular 'inspection' to problems? Your valve problem could have been spotted right away with such a tool. I'm waiting on compression info before I consider my options. Will you do that then at the same time you do the compression test? Can't hurt anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Will you do that then at the same time you do the compression test? Can't hurt anyway. I don't own the tool but I'm going to ask the mechanics if they will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 I wonder why we aren't using bore scopes to see inside cylinders as regular 'inspection' to problems? Your valve problem could have been spotted right away with such a tool. I'm waiting on compression info before I consider my options. Bore scopes are great at looking for cylinder wall damage (or piston crown/land breakage, but not very useful from my experience looking at valve issues. I have yet to see a borescope that can clearly view 180-degrees upwards from the tip, but I'm sure something exists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Bore scopes are great at looking for cylinder wall damage (or piston crown/land breakage, but not very useful from my experience looking at valve issues. I have yet to see a borescope that can clearly view 180-degrees upwards from the tip, but I'm sure something exists. I think there are more expensive ones with very flexible heads, could be wrong. It would make a lot of sense to build one for the auto industry if it's not available. Think about all the motor removals that could be saved.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_addict Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 Head is back from the machine shop and ready to bolt on. Looks great. Disassembled, cleaned, exhaust valve seats cleaned up, one new exhaust valve, very light decking, and all clearances re-set within spec (high end of spec on the exhaust side). Should be able to start re-assembly this weekend. All gaskets/hoses and timing belt parts are here too. Hope I remember where all those hoses went! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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