spooln30 Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 I was under my LGT today changing my trans fluid and while doing my usual suspension check I was using a pry bar between the sway bar and LCA and I noticed how much flex is in the subframe. Like for the LCA mount and the SB bushing mount. Is everyone's like this? I hope when I do the STI swap those subframe are build stronger or I'll have to do some serious bracing. I see why when I come to a hard complete stop my car sways back and fourth a bit. Nothings lose its just a crappy weak design from Subaru I think. I see why I love my Toyotas they over engineer everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 I have noticed that too, the wrx and still subframes are partially boxed in where the lca's bolt to it, but you can fully box it in with strips of 16gauge mild steel and very little welding skill...subikid boxed his swaybar mounts and did a good job at it... think he made a thread that showed his work for a reference. Subaru spt has manufactured some braces front and back you can look into, I'm not sure the price for the ones up front cost but they are made for all Subaru subframes. The rear h-brace goes for 60 bucks at speedfactory in el paso, I think perrin makes some braces for our cars too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 ...toyota hasn't made a proper sports car that is obtainable since the late nineties either bub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 I know I own a Supra. LOL. They still build a higher quality car and truck then anyone IMO. I love my Subaru but it's the little things I notice. Don't worry Toyotas bringing back a new Supra to compete with the GTR plus their bringing back a model simular to the MR2. I won't comment on the Scion/Subaru deal but Toyota does own a percentage of Fuji Heavy Industries. Don't remember the percent. My good friend did buy a BRZ and that things a blast to drive. It needs more power good thing the aftermarket has tons of support for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sludgeroo Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 I have to agree, i love this subie but i cant wait to get an ae86 or mx83. Used to have a te72 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Our older GTs aren't really meant for more than the simple task of a to b. Ita a damn good thing that our cars have a lot in common with the GC model Impreza. It doesn't take much to match the stability that a Toyota Camry of the same year would have. As for over-engineered, Toyota was VERY GOOD at doing that. My uncle had a Celica for 20 years before he sold it & it as good as it always did. Same engine, same transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Yeah I have to agree with the toyota trucks being a mold that was broken long ago...as far as sports car quality nowadays for toyota is not good they are aimed at the efficient family car crowd as with honda. Subaru for me is just an all around great user friendly vehicle that performs pretty well with reliability. I love fast cars as much as anyone else and toyota was good at, it don't get me wrong one of my favorite platforms ever is the hachi, dohc, rear wheel drive, long wheelbase, light chassis and that motors revs hard with good torque...insanely fun. I drove my friends corrolla sr-5 that had a cold air intake and straight exhaust and I had a great time..that car was just raw and fun to drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 I'm not trying to put down Subaru at all, I've owned 2 Legacys but I'm noticing a lot of things that I need to modify when I do my STI swap. My Supra on the other hand there isn't one thing that I thought was a weak point, besides how heavy it was but that's because it's super reinforced. I plan to track this LGT and I don't mind fabing things at all. In fact I'm a really good welder and have the tools to make pretty much anything. While changing the trans fluid I started mapping out a full chromoly tubular front subframe. Boxing up the factory will only do so much and I drive very hard road racing. I'm also thinking of a manual steering rack as well. Their easier to mount when building a tubular subframe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 I tried searching subikids profile for a thread about his boxed subframe but I didn't find nothing. I pmd him just waiting on a reply. If u guys know where that info might be just post the link. Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 He didn't have a thread boxing his subframe...I think he just reinforced his swaybar mounts...I want to get another subframe and box it in myself, seeing as my bd is my dd:lol:, I can't do anything that will keep my car down for more than a day. I have been making control arms and boxing in factory parts for a ton of sandrails and 4x4 toys for friends of mine as a side project for a few years, its good to know all that stuff..a good part of the reason I got into the Subaru game too, Subaru owners get down and dirty themselves and fab parts for their own cars..very refreshing that people still like to do that. Spooln30 that chromoly tube frame idea is sick..Subaru subframes aren't that detailed from looks at first glance anyway, good luck man keep posting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 If was going to track a bd legacy I would strip the motorbay completely grind and peel all the seam sealer around the strut towers and frame rails etc. and completely weld all of the seams in the unibody the aprons and fire wall...I think that would be a great first step if its a project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Boy, I sure know how to smash the brakes on a thread... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sludgeroo Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 I got a hold of subiekid and yes he only did the rear. Ive don't fabrications like this before but I just wanted to see what others have done. If the STI subframe isn't as strong as I need it to be I will either reinforce the STI SF or I'll make a chromoly tubular SF. If I were to use and modify the STI one I would use a piece of 1" round stock and run it from the swaybar mounts underside where the SB bushing bolts to then to the fame itself right where the axle is. It's probably hard to picture this but it would work. I would also box the front side up and box the other side working around the 1" round stock. This will definitely make it much stronger then just boxing it in. I would do a similar brace with the LCA mounting point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 I got you adding the 1" tube be almost like adding a lateral Link, kinda like the rear lateral link to the rear sb and endlink connection...could try to develop something to go from the front control arm to the motor mount, have to work around it and fab for a yoke or a ball joint for adjustment so you can have your alignment adjustable still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Your saying to mount a brace right to the control arm? That doesn't sound like a good idea but I can run another piece of 1" round stock from the front LCA mounting point then upwards near the hole for the engine mounts. Maybe even a brace with one end flatten with a hole to mount with the bolt of the LCA's front mounting point then welded to the SF somewhere. When my STI swap starts I will start a build thread with lots of pic. If I can figure out how to post pics directly from my phone to the forum. LOL. I think I'll put off the swap untill the weather changes so I can daily drive my Supra otherwise I would have to buy a beater just to get to and from work. Driving my Supra sounds so much more fun. I started it last night and GD I miss driving her. I thought about taking her out last night but there's still salt on the roads here. Sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Lol did you say using a yolk? I'm not building a steam punk Subaru. Haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Lol did you say using a yolk? I'm not building a steam punk Subaru. Haha. Lol...I have no idea what a steam punk is, a yoke is like a ball joint with a thru-bolt, tie rod end basically, it allows movement...I meant to lead you to a lateral link with a yoke from that backside of the control arm to the center point f the subframe, like a brace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sludgeroo Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Heim Joints * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Heim Joints *[/Q You got the daily double! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Actually a yolk is the part of a drive shaft where it connects or slips into the trans or diff and has a ujoint. There are two point that would work on the SF itself. I'll figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Like Sludge said you probably mean a Heim joint aka rod ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Your saying to mount a brace right to the control arm? That doesn't sound like a good idea but I can run another piece of 1" round stock from the front LCA mounting point then upwards near the hole for the engine mounts. Maybe even a brace with one end flatten with a hole to mount with the bolt of the LCA's front mounting point then welded to the SF somewhere. When my STI swap starts I will start a build thread with lots of pic. If I can figure out how to post pics directly from my phone to the forum. LOL. I think I'll put off the swap untill the weather changes so I can daily drive my Supra otherwise I would have to buy a beater just to get to and from work. Driving my Supra sounds so much more fun. I started it last night and GD I miss driving her. I thought about taking her out last night but there's still salt on the roads here. Sucks. That's exactly what I mean about the 1" from lca to subframe, you could fit up a tie rod end on the lca side so you have a little bit of movement and for it to be adjustable, I don't think having a solid piece of tube will help with stiffening if the subframe is flimsy, you might end up beating that part of the sf to death without some give to the lca's... I think spt has lca body mount to subframe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Body mounts to tranny support Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 The way I have it figured out, running a 1" tube from the LCA mounting point upwards to the SF would definitely help stiffen it overall. If you ever get under and have a pry bar try prying on the SF right there, there's a good amount of flex and that's not even including the bushing for the LCA which also needs a poly bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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