Nolmers06LGT Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Took my two friends and I two days. Pry bar and friends FTW! You, my friend, are lucky. Mine wouldn't separate until I had an engine hoist lifting the pitch stop mount on the trans, with a putty knife on the seam, a few pry bars in random places, and a lot of frustration. I ended up kicking the trans mount and it finally broke loose. My point is that it can be a 2 day job, or a 2 week job depending on hangups. Plan accordingly. If you have a DD that isn't your legacy, go to town. I can't count how many people said "you should have paid someone to do it." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 You, my friend, are lucky. Mine wouldn't separate until I had an engine hoist lifting the pitch stop mount on the trans, with a putty knife on the seam, a few pry bars in random places, and a lot of frustration. I ended up kicking the trans mount and it finally broke loose. My point is that it can be a 2 day job, or a 2 week job depending on hangups. Plan accordingly. If you have a DD that isn't your legacy, go to town. I can't count how many people said "you should have paid someone to do it." Yea you're definitely right. Still I'd rather dive in, learn something, do it right, and keep the green stuff in my pocket. If the OP gets stuck, there's lots of help here provided, like you said, he has another vehicle to drive. GLOP! May the odds be ever in your favor Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Yea you're definitely right. Still I'd rather dive in, learn something, do it right, and keep the green stuff in my pocket. If the OP gets stuck, there's lots of help here provided, like you said, he has another vehicle to drive. GLOP! May the odds be ever in your favor Agreed.. I'd much rather do it myself. I figured I'd at least warn him that it's not just a walk in the park. That said, I've done every install/repair to my LGT, and I take pride in knowing that. Plus, these cars are a dream to work on.. Set aside random hangups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too luchadorjose Posted January 9, 2013 I Donated Too Share Posted January 9, 2013 I'm looking to replace the clutch on my specB soon and i'm pretty much sold on the clutchmasters FX300, but the FX350 is also on my radar. Almost identical clutches but the FX350 is their new friction material which seems to be a little more versatile (smoother because full face versus segmented, but also more suited to abuse because hybrid material versus straight kevlar) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 If it makes you feel better, the second time the tranny comes out, it's much easier to get it off the block. Oh Yea, make sure you clean the matting surfaces of the tranny and block, it is a ground path. Clean the ground wire on the pitch stop too. Also put some grease on the starter shaft so the gear slides easier and won't hang up when it gets cold out. Oh yea, also grease on the snot of the tranny where TOB slides. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazymonk8-8 Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 6 puck clutches are not for daily driving at all. Very harsh engagment and starting on hills is damn hard. The problem is you can't really slip a 6 puck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 I'm looking to replace the clutch on my specB soon and i'm pretty much sold on the clutchmasters FX300, but the FX350 is also on my radar. Almost identical clutches but the FX350 is their new friction material which seems to be a little more versatile (smoother because full face versus segmented, but also more suited to abuse because hybrid material versus straight kevlar) FWIW, the Spec 2+ I used to have for 80,000 miles was a carbon/kevlar clutch. It would howl when I engaged 1st gear. The other shifts were fine. Spec said that was normal for that clutch. Not sure what the FX350 is made of ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too luchadorjose Posted January 9, 2013 I Donated Too Share Posted January 9, 2013 FWIW, the Spec 2+ I used to have for 80,000 miles was a carbon/kevlar clutch. It would howl when I engaged 1st gear. The other shifts were fine. Spec said that was normal for that clutch. Not sure what the FX350 is made of ? I think it's called "Fiber Tough", it's some composite of organic, kevlar, and proprietary material Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Don't forget to use anti-seize compound on all the bolts putting it back together. Putting antiseize on fasteners acts as a lubricant and changes the measured torque value, guaranteeing you over-tighten them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Putting antiseize on fasteners acts as a lubricant and changes the measured torque value, guaranteeing you over-tighten them. I only torque the FW and PP bolts with no lube, axle nuts, lug nut's (80ftlbs) and some of the timing belt bolts. Other then that everything is wrench tight. This has been talked about before by lots of people. I've been using anti-seize on just about everything for the past 12 years or more. For most things proper torque is not a important thing. I've been a mechanic for over 40 years. In my 8 years as a Jet Engine mechanic in the USAF, we only torqued the engine mounts, everything else was wrench tight. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 I used to be in engineering at a place that made industrial clutches for stuff ranging from 10ft-lb to 109,000ft-lb. Our clutches were on one of the tug boats that towed that cruise ship off the coast of Mexico when it lost power, along with oil rigs, screw machines, mining equipment, etc. The engineers there were very specific when it came to torque specs because a lot of our stuff needed to be ABS, DNV or Llyods certified, and were very specific when it came to lubing or not lubing bolts. It rubbed off on me, I suppose. Just putting it out there (because I have a feeling people don't think about it) that lubricating fasteners that need to be "properly" torqued changes how tight they really are. Does it matter a lot in this situation? Probably not, but at the same time, I personally don't want that thought in the back of my mind as I'm driving my car wondering if they're going to vibrate loose because they're lubed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 I used to be in engineering at a place that made industrial clutches for stuff ranging from 10ft-lb to 109,000ft-lb. Our clutches were on one of the tug boats that towed that cruise ship off the coast of Mexico when it lost power, along with oil rigs, screw machines, mining equipment, etc. The engineers there were very specific when it came to torque specs because a lot of our stuff needed to be ABS, DNV or Llyods certified, and were very specific when it came to lubing or not lubing bolts. It rubbed off on me, I suppose. Just putting it out there (because I have a feeling people don't think about it) that lubricating fasteners that need to be "properly" torqued changes how tight they really are. Does it matter a lot in this situation? Probably not, but at the same time, I personally don't want that thought in the back of my mind as I'm driving my car wondering if they're going to vibrate loose because they're lubed. This makes logical sense, I'll let you know if anything rattles loose. So far so good after 15K Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Well, your won't have bolts come loose because of the anti seize.. If anything, you'll shear a bolt. Torque specs give the bolt the proper amount of preload. You're actually stretching the bolt. Too little, and the bolt could come loose. Too much and you're pushing the bolt near its yield strength. My bet is that you're more likely to lose a bolt by NOT using anti-seize.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 I'm more worried about having a easier time removing the nut or bolt the next time. baconbits, I understand what your saying. For the last 32 years I have been assembling items for the US Navy and NASA Space Station. We torque everything at work. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshawk25 Posted January 10, 2013 Author Share Posted January 10, 2013 Oh I anticipate there to be some hang ups! This will not be as hard as some of the nonsense I have worked on before. My boss decided he could change the motor in his 99 boniville and when he pulled the engine he just tossed every bolt in a bucket! When it came time to put the new motor in he was clueless. So it took a ride on my trailor to my garage and I had the joy of sorting it all out and putting it back together. That was a fun time....haha. When I am in there doing my clutch I figured cause I just hit 100k and I am pulling the motor its time for an new timing belt and water pump set up. It is also a good time for my sti up pipe to go in. It is going to be a fun filled weekend of parts changing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 FWIW, I DEI heat wrapped my UP/DP when I had the engine out. Keep heat away from the axle boot. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 FWIW, I DEI heat wrapped my UP/DP when I had the engine out. Keep heat away from the axle boot. If my DP is already wrapped, is it worth it to fab a heat shield to save the CV boot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhltfour Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 If my DP is already wrapped, is it worth it to fab a heat shield to save the CV boot? anything helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 anything helps. Max? What do you think? There are a few other things on my fab. list; I'm not going to go through the trouble if the wrap is sufficient. If I come up with something decent, maybe I'll make a few of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 I don't sit in traffic much, I let the car coast before I shut it off. Not sure a heat shield is needed. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshawk25 Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 So after a fun filled weekend of pulling my motor and changing the clutch, timing belt, idlers, water pump, valve cover gaskets, shifter bushing, tranny and dif fluid, up pipe, and a bunch of misc seals. I have a very smoth running car...it is like it is brand new. I am having fun breaking the clutch in! Lots of smelly starts...I love the smeel of burning new clutch! I am very happy with the way the clutch feels. It has a nice firm pedal and it is just stiff enough to not suck in traffic. The clutch is very grabby and feels the way it should. I have a little chater on decel but I kind of expected that with the LWFW. I am very pleased with this set up and I will let ya know how it is after it breaks in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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