JermTheElf Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Either that or just pull out the passenger side one. It really takes like 5 minutes and inspect it. Just remove the turbo coolant tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Samurai- Posted January 5, 2013 Author Share Posted January 5, 2013 Either that or just pull out the passenger side one. It really takes like 5 minutes and inspect it. Just remove the turbo coolant tank. I guess it doesnt hurt to check. Dont really know what to look for if its bad. The one I replaced still looks brand new (kept it just in case). Is there a way to check the sensor with a multi-meter to see if it is good or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 It's not a sensor it's a valve, if its broken it would have failed mechanically. With mine it fell to pieces when I pulled it out and a few of the metal pieces were floating around inside. Pull it and if you're questioning its health post a picture. Since you have a new one at your hand you know what it should look like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon OBXT Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 It's not a sensor it's a valve, if its broken it would have failed mechanically. With mine it fell to pieces when I pulled it out and a few of the metal pieces were floating around inside. Pull it and if you're questioning its health post a picture. Since you have a new one at your hand you know what it should look like They can get sticky from oil cooked onto the shaft over time without technically 'breaking'. When I replaced mine (did both at same time, easy repair) the had a lot of drag on the shaft from this and it wasn't something that could be wiped off. I'd consider the OCV on the 2.5 to be a wear item. For $80 you can have a new OEM one in and completely eliminate that as a variable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Mine was $124 at the dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Samurai- Posted January 5, 2013 Author Share Posted January 5, 2013 It's not a sensor it's a valve, if its broken it would have failed mechanically. With mine it fell to pieces when I pulled it out and a few of the metal pieces were floating around inside. Pull it and if you're questioning its health post a picture. Since you have a new one at your hand you know what it should look like Well nothing fell apart on the old one and it looked physically good. I just dont know if it was sticking or not. But since I cleared the code and the light came back after installing a brand new one I'd guess that the "old" on is still good. I left the new one on the car anyways. To remove the passenger one will I have to remove the coolant tank above it and the vacuum tube behind the ocv on the passenger side? The drivers side had a lot more room to work with and I just had to remove the vacuum line behind that. I was looking at it today. Just dont want to take off what I dont need as its pretty cold out and my hands get numb quick lol. They can get sticky from oil cooked onto the shaft over time without technically 'breaking'. When I replaced mine (did both at same time, easy repair) the had a lot of drag on the shaft from this and it wasn't something that could be wiped off. I'd consider the OCV on the 2.5 to be a wear item. For $80 you can have a new OEM one in and completely eliminate that as a variable. I was thinking to try to put the old one from the drivers side into the passenger side just in case, since the one I replaced ended up being just fine since the code came back. And they are the same part number anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon OBXT Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Mine was $124 at the dealer That's why I don't ever buy from the dealer unless the vehicle is down and I can't wait. Part number for the OCV ("Valve AY Oil Control" per the web site) is 10921AA020 (for my 05 OBXT). $86.28 here at Chaplins. Same part DS/PS. Typically Heuberger is less, but in this case slightly more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon OBXT Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 I was thinking to try to put the old one from the drivers side into the passenger side just in case, since the one I replaced ended up being just fine since the code came back. And they are the same part number anyways. Yes, same PN DS and PS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Samurai- Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 Did you check the passenger side? Not yet, gonna check it tomorrow along with removing the passenger and drivers side OCV Banjo bolt filters since that is a simple job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Samurai- Posted January 10, 2013 Author Share Posted January 10, 2013 Almost 100% sure I found what was causing the code the entire time! Removed the passenger side AVCS Banjo bolt to find no clogging and no banjo filter, removed the drivers side AVCS banjo bolt to find a MANGLED and lodged banjo filter! It actually looks like someone picked it up and crushed it with their fingers. That would make sense since it was not where it was supposed to be, smashed, and the screen itself was ripped on the bottom. Thats what caused the timing issue. The OCV isnt going to time the engine on the drivers side (P0021) correctly when theres a blockage of oil pressure. So I removed it and did not install a new one. I reset my light and we will see what happens. Heres a couple pics of the filter i pulled out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JermTheElf Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Strange!! I'm glad you found the issue. I hope it's all solved Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Samurai- Posted January 10, 2013 Author Share Posted January 10, 2013 Strange!! I'm glad you found the issue. I hope it's all solved Me too! I guess time will tell. Reset codes usually take a few miles before they go on again. But lets hope it doesnt! p.s. Hooked up both original OCV's to a 12 volt power source when I had them out and they worked perfectly and smoothly without any sticking. So those are good to go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 nice work! BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Samurai- Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 nice work! Thanks! I also learned a huge lesson. Cant even trust the dealer to at least find out what it is. Liars lol. All in all out, $140... Could of been worse if I didnt do research. Thanks for everyones help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT05Legacy Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Almost 100% sure I found what was causing the code the entire time! Removed the passenger side AVCS Banjo bolt to find no clogging and no banjo filter, removed the drivers side AVCS banjo bolt to find a MANGLED and lodged banjo filter! It actually looks like someone picked it up and crushed it with their fingers. That would make sense since it was not where it was supposed to be, smashed, and the screen itself was ripped on the bottom. Thats what caused the timing issue. The OCV isnt going to time the engine on the drivers side (P0021) correctly when theres a blockage of oil pressure. So I removed it and did not install a new one. I reset my light and we will see what happens. Heres a couple pics of the filter i pulled out. Was this the filter in the banjo bolt that comes off the front of the engine behind the rear timing belt cover (bolt is oriented fore/aft on the car)? Or is there a filter in the banjo bolt that directly taps into the OCV (bolt is oriented up/down on the car)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Samurai- Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 Was this the filter in the banjo bolt that comes off the front of the engine behind the rear timing belt cover (bolt is oriented fore/aft on the car)? Or is there a filter in the banjo bolt that directly taps into the OCV (bolt is oriented up/down on the car)? This is the Banjo right above the OCV. I have not checked the banjo behind the timing cover yet. The code has not returned and the car runs much better now that there is no blockage to the OCV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 This is the Banjo right above the OCV. I have not checked the banjo behind the timing cover yet. The code has not returned and the car runs much better now that there is no blockage to the OCV. This is curious. The filter is supposed to be in the bolt behind the cam & timing cover. It's really hard to get at. I'm in the process of dealing with the results of these CEL's and am close to getting this filtered bolt out. I confirmed with Mike Sprankles that the filter needs to be in that bolt and won't be correct in the top one because the flow is supposed to be from the end of the bolt into the filter and out the holes. I can see if the filter was in the top one it could be crushed similar to what you described and showed because of the reversed flow against the side of the filter. I guess Subaru assumed that the filter didn't need to be changed unless you were doing a timing belt job. I wish I had known about it then because I would have had it changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Samurai- Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 This is curious. The filter is supposed to be in the bolt behind the cam & timing cover. It's really hard to get at. I'm in the process of dealing with the results of these CEL's and am close to getting this filtered bolt out. I confirmed with Mike Sprankles that the filter needs to be in that bolt and won't be correct in the top one because the flow is supposed to be from the end of the bolt into the filter and out the holes. I can see if the filter was in the top one it could be crushed similar to what you described and showed because of the reversed flow against the side of the filter. I guess Subaru assumed that the filter didn't need to be changed unless you were doing a timing belt job. I wish I had known about it then because I would have had it changed. Yeah i have yet to check that one. But still no code returned. I would check the OCV banjo before you tear apart the timing area. Its literally a 5 minute process to check. The filter was clearly the problem, you'll know by looking at it. Mine wasnt even seated inside the bolt like its supposed to be. Fell out the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 I believe there is not a filter in the banjo bolts on the OCV's. There are only two filters the ones that go fore and aft I hope you've seen this thread. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5gt-turbo-oil-supply-banjo-bolt-filter-removal-62371.html There is another with the picture from the parts catalog showing the two item #33's. I'm looking for that one. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Samurai- Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 I believe there is not a filter in the banjo bolts on the OCV's. There are only two filters the ones that go fore and aft I hope you've seen this thread. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5gt-turbo-oil-supply-banjo-bolt-filter-removal-62371.html There is another with the picture from the parts catalog showing the two item #33's. I'm looking for that one. Well there was a filter that I had removed and discarded that was onthe drivers side OCV oil line banjo. The passenger side did not have one in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 perhaps a previous owner made an "improvement" by swapping the filtered banjo bolt to the other side of the oil line for easy accessibilty... except that the filter wasn't designed for reverse flow and collapsed? BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 perhaps a previous owner made an "improvement" by swapping the filtered banjo bolt to the other side of the oil line for easy accessibilty... except that the filter wasn't designed for reverse flow and collapsed? That's what I was thinking. In fact I know a guy who put a filtered banjo bolt in the top of the driver side AVCS block. I wasn't knowledgeable at the time to know that the flow through the bolt was the reverse of its design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 I believe there is not a filter in the banjo bolts on the OCV's. There is another with the picture from the parts catalog showing the two item #33's. I'm looking for that one. Not sure if we're talking about 2 different things but there is a filtered bolt on the forward facing side of the driver's side AVCS. I think the flow comes through the OCV, out the top of the casting and then down into the front through this other filtered banjo. This is the one that's a b**ch to get out unless you happen to also be doing a timing belt job. I've been using the Hammer Down technique outlined in the thread you referenced. I still have to do some grinding on my wrench before I can engage the bolt and get it out. I have a new one with the nipple already ground off ready to go back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Not sure if we're talking about 2 different things but there is a filtered bolt on the forward facing side of the driver's side AVCS. I think the flow comes through the OCV, out the top of the casting and then down into the front through this other filtered banjo. This is the one that's a b**ch to get out unless you happen to also be doing a timing belt job. I've been using the Hammer Down technique outlined in the thread you referenced. I still have to do some grinding on my wrench before I can engage the bolt and get it out. I have a new one with the nipple already ground off ready to go back in. I know about the one on the front of the drivers side head, mine has no filter there. I thought you were refering to the banjo bolts up on top of the OCV's. I'm sure those do not have filters. I think they are the same as the one on the turbo center section. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 I know about the one on the front of the drivers side head, mine has no filter there. I thought you were refering to the banjo bolts up on top of the OCV's. Samarai, my understanding of what you described is that this is where (on the top) the filtered bolt was that had the collapsed filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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