Captain Ned Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Which is why I stick with GC. Lots of ZDDP in the formula. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 You guys know rotella has switched up the formula right? "Rotella has been reformulated for lower emissions in line with the other systems on the new clean diesels. To do so, they've changed their additive package so it's similar to other oils not recommend designed for gas engines, such as Mobil 1 5w30 and many other GF-4 oils. These high detergent oils are designed for emissions compliance, not performance. Modified turbocharged engines require a great deal more protection than the average engine. Only certain racing oils have the high zinc content and other additives necessary for high film strength and anti wear capability in a high performance application. These additives are at odds with emissions standards. For example, Phosphorous is found in good racing oils, but is limited in street oils because of its long term negative effect on catalytic converters." That being said, I run brad penn oil's high in zinc. You do know that even the 'low' emissions blend of Rotella T6 still has a lot more zinc In it than most 'automotive' oils? Virgin Oil Analysis has shown it is still a very good oil. Low emissions blend of Rotella T6 has been around for several years now and it still provides good UOA. Additives like zinc are great to have, but you also need to take into account how well oil holds up to heat shear as well as mechanical shear. I'm not saying Brad Penn oil's are not good, I don't know much about their UOA. However I'm always tentative to run a racing oil because they are not designed to last long periods of time and operate in temperature extremes. Race engines have their oil changed before every track session, and are torn down and refreshed between events. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KuntryQuestTSi Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 I will agree that rotella is still better than most, but its not what it used to be. Brad penn and some of the ams oils are ment for high performance street use as well as track use. I run the Brad penn and change my oil every 3k. I also drive like an old lady on sunday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 You guys know rotella has switched up the formula right? "Rotella has been reformulated for lower emissions in line with the other systems on the new clean diesels. To do so, they've changed their additive package so it's similar to other oils not recommend designed for gas engines, such as Mobil 1 5w30 and many other GF-4 oils. These high detergent oils are designed for emissions compliance, not performance. Modified turbocharged engines require a great deal more protection than the average engine. Only certain racing oils have the high zinc content and other additives necessary for high film strength and anti wear capability in a high performance application. These additives are at odds with emissions standards. For example, Phosphorous is found in good racing oils, but is limited in street oils because of its long term negative effect on catalytic converters." That being said, I run brad penn oil's high in zinc. At one point, I was using Brad Penn Racing oil. Until my oil needed changed immediately. It's been doing well with 15-40 Rotella T5. I'm probably going to go back to Brad Penn though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesubie Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 No pretty much all Mobil 1 likes to shear now. The 0W30 and 0W40 are pretty bad too. Based on what? Your opinion? Although I do not run any Resource Conserving oils, there was a uoa on bitog from a Stage I FXT where M1 0W-30 where it stayed in grade. There are also even a couple of regular M1 5W-30 uoa's (API SN) posted there where it did well. I've run Mobil1 0W-40 twice, and although it's a light 40 grade, it did not shear out grade. But even if it did, does that mean the end of the world? That's not something that one random uoa $30 will tell you. M1 0W-40 also meets a lot of specs like MB 229.3/229.5, VW 502/505, BMW LL 01, Porsche A40, etc. -Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 What oil should you use? All of them. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesubie Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 You do know that even the 'low' emissions blend of Rotella T6 still has a lot more zinc In it than most 'automotive' oils? Virgin Oil Analysis has shown it is still a very good oil. Low emissions blend of Rotella T6 has been around for several years now and it still provides good UOA. Additives like zinc are great to have, but you also need to take into account how well oil holds up to heat shear as well as mechanical shear. I'm not saying Brad Penn oil's are not good, I don't know much about their UOA. However I'm always tentative to run a racing oil because they are not designed to last long periods of time and operate in temperature extremes. Race engines have their oil changed before every track session, and are torn down and refreshed between events. RT6 still meets API SM for gasoline and API CJ-4 for diesel and has more zinc and phosphorus than Passenger Car Motor Oils. There are also many used oil analyses that show the z and p levels in RT6 protect just fine. -Denns Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted November 13, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted November 13, 2012 Per the manual you are only supposed to use Rotella T6 5w-40. "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Based on what? Your opinion? Although I do not run any Resource Conserving oils, there was a uoa on bitog from a Stage I FXT where M1 0W-30 where it stayed in grade. There are also even a couple of regular M1 5W-30 uoa's (API SN) posted there where it did well. I've run Mobil1 0W-40 twice, and although it's a light 40 grade, it did not shear out grade. But even if it did, does that mean the end of the world? That's not something that one random uoa $30 will tell you. M1 0W-40 also meets a lot of specs like MB 229.3/229.5, VW 502/505, BMW LL 01, Porsche A40, etc. -Dennis I've seen many UOA that shows they both shear badly in both of my cars. Just because an oil meets a mfg spec doesn't mean it is the greatest most cost effective oil for your car. Just because Porsche has a marketing agreement with Mobil 1 doesn't make it the best oil. On the boxster forums most people avoid the 0W40 M1 even though it is the only oil Porsche of America recommends. Oddly course it is also the only oil that M1 sells in America that comes somewhat close to the factory fill. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesubie Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 I can post several good uoa's here later from Subaru turbo's on Mobil1 0W-40, but like I said they're all in the bitog uoa forum (can't link from work). Both the older API SM spec (0W-40) and the newer API SN spec (5W-30, 5W-30 EP, 0W-40). Keep in mind that there is oil "marketing" (We recommend Mobil1), then there is formulating an oil to meet a certain specification (Porsche A40, VW 502, etc.). Did wear increase when the oil sheared in your application? There are even uoa's on RT6 where it sheared to a 30 grade so shearing isn't unusual. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2328607 -Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBlack-V Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic come on, you know you wana be part of the spun bearing club I was 0. And I'm still a zero. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silinc3r Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 I run Mobil 1 5W-30 and 10W-30 Full synthetic in my 90 and 91 Legacys. Never had a problem and I have driven over 50,XXX miles on the 90 in the course of 7 years. Yes I know that isnt a lot of miles a year and a lot of it was highway driving. I have also made the trip from GA-WA and back without incident. The car has over 267,XXX miles. Granted it isnt turbo, it is FWD, and only has 115 HP, BUT I still get 30 MPG highway, no smoke in the exhuast. I do drive this car hard from time to time and have dragged it on the strip. Like others have said already people are loyal to the oils they maybe grew up with or swear by. I only use Mobil 1 but I think without conclusive invidence to suggest that a particular brand is causing the same problem everytime there is no way to suggest one brand over another. This thread could be rewrote as which OJ to drink for breakfast and it would be the same answers. The other thing is that if a racing team uses it then it most perform up to a certain level, if they start using Autozone or Walmart brand oil then maybe I'll switch. The other thing is when people don't really understand what they are talking about and try to convince others to do the same as they do. I do not claim to know a lot about oil but I do the regular checks and practices and this has worked wonders for me. This reminds of when people that don't run tell me I should buy those D$%^ Vibram Foot shoes things. My response "when you start running faster than me I'll switch, now go back to your cross fit" And yes I have done research before hand http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/does-your-subaru-burn-oili-76005.html?t=76005&highlight=mobil+oil http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/anyone-oem-blown-turbo-please-post-83047.html?t=83047&highlight=mobil+oil http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clearing-up-all-oil-info-79800.html?t=79800&highlight=mobil+oil Silinc3r's 05 SWP GT/Spec B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowwill Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 What ever the dealer puts in. For $20 can't go wrong. I hate changing oil no matter how simple it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KuntryQuestTSi Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 That being said, its better to run some forum of oil than no oil. I don't like royal purple much either, altho I don't have any facts on the forumla, I have had some personal experence with it. I won't use mobile one in anything, I still run rotella in our 7.3L diesel. I was just letting everyone know that the forumla has changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 We've been running synthetics and doing oil changes on Subies since 2001. Here is our take... Amsoil Signature 5w30 and 5w40- Great for extended oil change intervals and tracking your car, especially when coupled with the Amsoil extended life oil filters. Our Blackstone results with Amsoil as well as our customers has come back excellent. Motul 8100 C3 5w30 and 5w40- Best bang for your buck for synthetics. This coupled with Subaru filters provide excellent coverage even on the new 7500 suggested oil change intervals for 2011+ Turbo cars. Blackstone came back on this oil with an awesome result. This is our standard oil change for all turbo subies. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 14, 2012 Moderators Share Posted November 14, 2012 We've been running synthetics and doing oil changes on Subies since 2001. Here is our take... Amsoil Signature 5w30 and 5w40- Great for extended oil change intervals and tracking your car, especially when coupled with the Amsoil extended life oil filters. Our Blackstone results with Amsoil as well as our customers has come back excellent. Motul 8100 C3 5w30 and 5w40- Best bang for your buck for synthetics. This coupled with Subaru filters provide excellent coverage even on the new 7500 suggested oil change intervals for 2011+ Turbo cars. Blackstone came back on this oil with an awesome result. This is our standard oil change for all turbo subies. -Mike Paisan That Motul stuff is butt-expensive. Not sure about "bang for your buck" when rotella is half the cost and seems to also return consistently good UOAs. Not sure exactly what you charge for a Motul change, but I'm guessing somewhere around $80-90? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 That Motul stuff is butt-expensive. Not sure about "bang for your buck" when rotella is half the cost and seems to also return consistently good UOAs. Not sure exactly what you charge for a Motul change, but I'm guessing somewhere around $80-90? We charge $60 for the motul oil change w/Subaru filter. A 5 liter Jug of 5w30 runs about $40 -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 14, 2012 Moderators Share Posted November 14, 2012 We charge $60 for the motul oil change w/Subaru filter. A 5 liter Jug of 5w30 runs about $40 -Mike Paisan Doesn't seem too bad then. I don't think a regular consumer can pick up that oil for $40 though. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 We sell it for $40 to our customers who do their own oil changes, actually $42 I think it is listed on our site for. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Do you ship it? 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Yup, shoot us an e-mail and we'll get you a shipped price. Oil is a bit heavy to ship. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arielgt93 Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Damn so many suggestions of which oil to use I guess depends on mods or how built the Subaru is, where you live or which one you prefer lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 The real answer is only found in UOA from your own car. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arielgt93 Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Yeah guess that's the only way I can figure out which one is best. Just by analysis from my car with the oil I use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesubie Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Damn so many suggestions of which oil to use I guess depends on mods or how built the Subaru is, where you live or which one you prefer lol The easy answer is to run anything that is NOT Resource Conserving in a turbo. The Motul that Mike is referring to is not Resource Conserving and meets European ACEA A3 specs for shear stability (the 5W-30 and 5W-40). It also has higher levels of zinc (but not phosphorus) than RC oils. -Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.