jerami1981 Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 I read one thread where a guy said he snapped like 5 10mm bolts due to them being seized. Has anyone else who has done the exhaust had a problem with these bolts snapping. Trying to guage if i really need to try to find more spare bolts before the install or if i should be fine. Want to be prepared because i will be doing the work far from most any civilization, which means no quick run to home depot or anything remotely close. If you are going to say go ahead and get a few..anyone know what size i need..i realize 10 mm, but what length? Thanks in advance for any help. I've got a couple weeks before the install, but i want to have everything worked out ahead of time to have the smoothest install possible, nothing worse than working on your car in 90 degree and 90% humidity and stuff goes wrong....that when i start hurting myself hitting the underside of my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powbmps Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 If I recall correctly, the only 10mm bolts are holding the factory "bov" to the intercooler and the heat shield to the downpipe. Almost everything else is 12mm or 14mm. It is good idea to spray all of the bolts with PB Blaster or another similar product. Let is soak in for a while and you should be all set. The thin bolts that go from the downpipe to the midpipe are pretty easy to snap. They are fully exposed to the elements, but are easily replaced if broken. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scans007 Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 I've taken my DP out 3 times now, no broken bolts. My recommendation is, once you get them out for the first time, put some antiseize on them.....you'll never have to worry! Also, NEVER bounce on the bolts! Only constant pressure/tourque when lossening/tight'n that what causes most bolts to break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 +100000 on the PB blast and the anti-seize. Some of the bolts are 10mm in diameter, 1.5 pitch; the above post is correct about the hex head sizes being 10mm, 12 m mand 14 mm. Your best bet is to get spares from a dealer *before* you get started. For under $20 you can have a whole replacement set if something breaks. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 ^ He doesn’t know anything. Live life, taste death no spares Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 ^ He doesn’t know anything. Truer words were never written Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacysteve68 Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 dine on death and snack on danger, breaking bolts is fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerami1981 Posted July 25, 2005 Author Share Posted July 25, 2005 Thanks for the info, i assume i can pick up some PB blaster or a similar product at my local auto store as well as some ant sieze? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 Any penetrating oil (we really need a Beavis and Butthead smile for this situation ) will do. Any parts store should have both. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleepin gt Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 heatshield:10mm bov:12mm downpipe:14mm on 33% of the cars we work on, at least 1 breaks on 2% or the cars, more than 1 breaks +11111 on the PB and dont over torque Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 I always use liberal amts of PB. I snapped like 5 bolts while installing my uppipe. Bolts are listed by the diameter of the threaded area not the bolt head, hence 10mm would describe one with a 14mm head. They would all start moving easily then stop a few threads later, not sure what was up with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 Thanks for the info, i assume i can pick up some PB blaster or a similar product at my local auto store as well as some ant sieze? PB Blaster, WD-40, P7, Gibbs.....anything that works. OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacky Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 broke two of them on up pipe, went to NAPA store -great bolts (funny-red coating on them) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 PB Blaster is the best... spray it... go back get yourself something to drink while it penetrates, come back and you could loosen it EASILY. "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeracer Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 It sounds like some people had cross threaded bolts from the factory. They where so easy to take off with some PB Blaster etc. If you have leather gloves, let the car warm up first. That helps too. "Gimme mines Balboa...Gimme mines".....Clubber Lang - Mr. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacky Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 Yeah, that's true but mine broke after I installed up pipe and had to loose 'em up again cause I put the gasket upside down and my heat shield wouldn't fit, so instead of cut-off sticking out part of the gasket I tried to take it off and put it back as it suppose to be:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackGT Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 I broke 5 bolts doing UP/DP. Only one bolt actually snapped, on the other 4 the nut just spun on the bolt and did not loosen, I had to cut them off. The installation torque at the factory was high enough to put the bolt into yield and messed up the threads that were under the nut, causing some serious galling. I work on fastener testing and automated assembly processes at work, so I was surprised to see it, but understood how it happened. My car was built 12/04 and had 800 miles on it when I did the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTsleeper Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 ive done both up & down pipes, and i broke 1. and it wasnt from removal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 I did the same thing with this install....I stripped the threads off one of the exhaust manifold to cross over bolts. Of course my wife came home as I was under the car with an angle grinder shooting sparks everywhere:) I've also snapped about 5 of the turbo heat shield screws. Those break way too easily. I broke 5 bolts doing UP/DP. Only one bolt actually snapped, on the other 4 the nut just spun on the bolt and did not loosen, I had to cut them off. The installation torque at the factory was high enough to put the bolt into yield and messed up the threads that were under the nut, causing some serious galling. I work on fastener testing and automated assembly processes at work, so I was surprised to see it, but understood how it happened. My car was built 12/04 and had 800 miles on it when I did the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTM 525 Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 I had my buddies shop at my disposal. Lift,and every tool under the sun along with his help.lt turned out to be a FUCKING NIGHTMARE!!! First off the torque specs are off the wall. After one day of driving with the recomended torque of 26 ft lbs the lower flange on the up pipe came loose. This was after I fixed the uppipe leak I had. Bolts came out completely from the uppipe to manifold. The uppipe when installed had a good nickels width and then a bit between the lower flange and manifold. I had to enlongate the holes in the brackets that hold the turbo to the block to move the turbo forward a bit so the uppipe would mate up to the manifold. Bear in mind this was no easy task ,I removed these two brackets. Reinstalling the bolts into the block and head to reattach the brackets was a ball breaker. The bolts felt like they crossthreaded the whole way in. They did'nt but you know that feeling you get inside when it feels like a bolt may snap. Snapped bolt in head and they would have had to take me away in a straight jacket. Anyway I get the brackets in and the turbo moved forward a tad and now the surfaces line up nice. I used the copper gasket and this time needless to say the 26 ft lbs figure went out the window, FAR out the window. That wont be coming loose anytime soon. Now with the turbo moved forward a bit I had to readjust the bracket for the downpipe hanger as the DP would now reside a bit farther forward as well. Well this is day two and all seems well. I had my buddies help thank god. This guy is no amatuer though he has never worked on a Subie he has done custom turbo setups. He just finished a sequential twin turbo in a Dodge Ram pickup. Thing makes 1200 ft lbs of torque. The biggest key is the have the turbo loose from the motor. My suggestion is tighten the uppipe to the turbo first then the manifold to the uppipe. Remember this is with the turbo loose and flopping around a bit. The whole idea is to get the pipes all snugged up mated clean and then secure the turbo to the motor. My problem was when I secured the turbo to the motor it was pulling it and causing the pipe positions to wanna move. Maybe the uppipe should have been a tad bit longer though I did find the intake hose to the compressor was pulled back off the mount a bit and the hoseclamp was never tightened from the factory. After the turbo was moved forward a bit the intake tube was snug against the compressor. There are plenty of guys who do this install themselves on ramps in the garage/driveway with great sucess and little drama. God bless you guys this was far from the case for me. Good luck! Oh yeah the good news: not a single broken bolt.................................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GranTourer Posted August 6, 2005 Share Posted August 6, 2005 KTM 525- Everyplace I've read suggest 26-28 ft. lbs for the UP, and I've heard one person toss 55 Nm out there, which is 40.6 ft. lbs. What did you end up torqueing it too, and may I ask what UP it was? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted August 6, 2005 Share Posted August 6, 2005 I personally think the 26-28 ft.lbs is crap. Like I said earlier, I initially tightened to that range and all the nuts backed off and had to be retorqued. I ended up torquing it down to 40 ftlbs. I have a flex up, so far no issues. KTM 525- Everyplace I've read suggest 26-28 ft. lbs for the UP, and I've heard one person toss 55 Nm out there, which is 40.6 ft. lbs. What did you end up torqueing it too, and may I ask what UP it was? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KTM 525 Posted August 6, 2005 Share Posted August 6, 2005 I did not use a torque wrench. I tightened it to the point where if the ratchet was put on the nut and turned the bolt would not spin. It was more than 40 ft lbs for sure. At that point I was at the end of my patience and was NOT GOING TO FUCK WITH IT AGAIN. I have a mod friendly dealer here and spoke with the service manager and another suggestion was to use two gaskets on the lower flange. He said every uppipe install done there gets a double gasket. It would make sense as I said there was a gap of a bit more than the width of a nickel there. The copper gasket is also thinner than the OEM one. The 26 ft lbs figure was not even enough to crush the ring that is stamped into the copper gasket but I was afraid of warping flanges and other issues the first time around. The service manager also said he uses over 40 ft lbs but you guys do so at your own risk. It's been 4 days now with multiple heat cycles and she is still quiet so all seems well. I bought a Crucial uppipe. The build quality is great the flanges are true with clean welds. The only thing was when I sprayed some gum cutter to clean the flanges off from the over sprayed gasket sealer the heat coating came off.Seems more like a high heat paint than a thermal barrier. Maybe on initial heatup it cures fully I dont know. I do know a jet hot or Swain type coating wont come off with gum cutter but for the price and quality of the Crucial we dare not complain. I wound up wrapping both the uppipe and the downpipe and sprayed on a good 5 coats of the sealer they wrap company sells. I also put a blanket over the turbo charger. The Cobb DP fits is great. I think my particular install situation is the exception here as most guys have not had nearly the trouble I did. Good luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Any more broken bolts lately? After reading this thread I'm almost ready to send all my parts back instead of staring the install tomorrow!! WOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 ^ Suffering such issues - or not - is truly something that you can't count on for your own particular install. There's too many factors involved - whether or not your vehicle has been exposed to winter road conditioners, whether or not your specific vehicle's assembly-line personnel/robots cross-threaded, your own disassembly/assembly technique, etc. - they can all be to-blame. The only thing that you can do is to be sure to use plenty of penetrating solution (true penetrating solution - not WD40), and obtain all the tools necessary for the job. Also, have tools on-hand or accessible that will allow you to rectify any mistakes or problems (i.e. extra bolts/nuts, "Easy-Out," drill and tap, heilcoil, etc.). Even then, preparation will only take you part of the way. The other part is pure luck-of-the-draw. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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