I Donated Too laff79 Posted October 11, 2012 I Donated Too Share Posted October 11, 2012 no one jokes about this subject Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volodyalysak Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 Update: Talked to subie mechanic, i known him for at least 3 years. He said it is rod knock and engine needs to be rebuilt if i want to get it done right - quote from him 1700 shortblock + 700 labor to put it all together - 2400 $ . My wife is going to eat me alive................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volodyalysak Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 What parts do i need if i want to rebuild my engine ? Can someone give me a list of what i need ? I might be able to get it cheapper. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 12, 2012 I Donated Share Posted October 12, 2012 In the future, in addition to not using a pressure washer, don't use the degreaser snake oil stuff. I've tried it with very little luck in the past. The thing that has gotten my engine bay the cleanest is a spray bottle of Simple Green and a garden hose. Cheap, environmentally friendly, and surprisingly effective. Plus it only takes about 2 seconds to burn off if you leave some on by accident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Update: Talked to subie mechanic, i known him for at least 3 years. He said it is rod knock and engine needs to be rebuilt if i want to get it done right - quote from him 1700 shortblock + 700 labor to put it all together - 2400 $ . My wife is going to eat me alive................. Unless you got water in the oil, I don't think the two are related. That is a fair price assuming a brand new OEM shortblock ($1800 I think), gasket and seal kit (~$250). Don't bother rebuilding that block, buy new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volodyalysak Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 In the future, in addition to not using a pressure washer, don't use the degreaser snake oil stuff. I've tried it with very little luck in the past. The thing that has gotten my engine bay the cleanest is a spray bottle of Simple Green and a garden hose. Cheap, environmentally friendly, and surprisingly effective. Plus it only takes about 2 seconds to burn off if you leave some on by accident. Good lesson learned:mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volodyalysak Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 Unless you got water in the oil, I don't think the two are related. That is a fair price assuming a brand new OEM shortblock ($1800 I think), gasket and seal kit (~$250). Don't bother rebuilding that block, buy new. Well i don't have 3 K to spend right now, what parts do i need to rebuild the short block ? Can you list what i need and i will find out where to get it. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 OEM short block, fujibond, gasket and seal kit. Most everything else can be reused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 12, 2012 I Donated Share Posted October 12, 2012 Well i don't have 3 K to spend right now, what parts do i need to rebuild the short block ? Can you list what i need and i will find out where to get it. Thanks You shouldn't try to rebuild the shortblock. You'll have to get new bearings, new rods, you'll probably have to bore the block to get rid of the damage from the rod knock, so you'll need to pay for machine work, you'll have to get overbored pistons, and that's to say nothing of main bolts and head studs. In the end, your engine will be weaker because of the overbore, and there will be far more that can go wrong -- and you'll have spent nearly as much as a shortblock anyway. So just get a new shortblock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 *or buy thefultonhow's old 5MT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 12, 2012 I Donated Share Posted October 12, 2012 *or buy thefultonhow's old 5MT Well, the buyer from PA said his loan came through today, so it's looking like it might be sold on Saturday. Finally! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volodyalysak Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 You shouldn't try to rebuild the shortblock. You'll have to get new bearings, new rods, you'll probably have to bore the block to get rid of the damage from the rod knock, so you'll need to pay for machine work, you'll have to get overbored pistons, and that's to say nothing of main bolts and head studs. In the end, your engine will be weaker because of the overbore, and there will be far more that can go wrong -- and you'll have spent nearly as much as a shortblock anyway. So just get a new shortblock. Well, i'll take the damn thing apart probably next week and see what to get, just don't want to guess what is damaged. I heard people rebuild shortblocks with better internals and they run forever. It just sounds cheapper to me to rebuild it at this point. But thanks for your help guys, i'll keep you posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCstunr Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 I pressure wash the engine on my car all the time. I've done it for all of my cars. Any of you who think that you are doing your engine a favor by using a garden hose should know that you use a LOT more water with a garden hose than with a pressure washer. I don't use degreaser though. I use whatever cheap off the shelf can of aerosol foaming tire shine I can find. I spray the entire can all over every single part of the engine bay and every single engine component including the alternator and every single wire harness, hose, and connector. Every single one, and from multiple angles. Until the engine looks like the north pole. Then I drive it a few miles and back to the house. Start the pressure washer and blast the ever loving shit out of my engine bay. Looks brand new. No grease, no dirt, no sticky or shine. Everything just have that clean conditioned factory hue. The foaming tire shine has surfactants in it to lift the grease and dirt. Silicone is left behind to condition and protect everything, and the excess is rinsed off by the pressure washer. I think you're problems are entirely unrelated. With that said, I hope for the best when you tear it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volodyalysak Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 I pressure wash the engine on my car all the time. I've done it for all of my cars. Any of you who think that you are doing your engine a favor by using a garden hose should know that you use a LOT more water with a garden hose than with a pressure washer. I don't use degreaser though. I use whatever cheap off the shelf can of aerosol foaming tire shine I can find. I spray the entire can all over every single part of the engine bay and every single engine component including the alternator and every single wire harness, hose, and connector. Every single one, and from multiple angles. Until the engine looks like the north pole. Then I drive it a few miles and back to the house. Start the pressure washer and blast the ever loving shit out of my engine bay. Looks brand new. No grease, no dirt, no sticky or shine. Everything just have that clean conditioned factory hue. The foaming tire shine has surfactants in it to lift the grease and dirt. Silicone is left behind to condition and protect everything, and the excess is rinsed off by the pressure washer. I think you're problems are entirely unrelated. With that said, I hope for the best when you tear it down. I'm glad at least one person on my side, i did pretty much same thing with the engine, sprayed it, drove it for 3 miles, then pressure washed it, and was doing it for a lot of cars and they all where fine. It could be that engine just decided to give up on me at the same time. 2400 $ is what i need to spend now to get it running, but on other hand i'm going to have practically new engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 I still think it was a coincidence this occurred,volodyalysak. Make sure you do yourself a favor and spend the extra few hundred and get a new OEM shortblock. That money will be well spent. http://heubergersubaruparts.com/parts/2008/SUBARU/IMPREZA/WRX%20STI/?siteid=215892&vehicleid=1441992§ion=ENGINE&group=ENGINE&subgroup=ENGINE Get an EJ257 shortblock. $1700 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragman Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 you'll have to get overbored pistons This is not true. When rebuilding a shortblock, it is not mandatory to increase the displacement with larger pistons/cylinders. I think you are confusing line boring the case, which will require larger bearings which has nothing to do with the size of the cylinders/pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerklo Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 I heard people rebuild shortblocks with better internals and they run forever. This is misleading. You can rebuild with better internals, but people that do that are usually building to hold more power, and not for longevity. In MOST cases if you want longevity (and maybe peace of mind), stick with a OEM SB (or STi shortblock if you want it a little beefier)... plus a few changes that fix known weak points in the engine (oil feed lines, oil pickup tube, stage 1 tune, ect) If you decide to rebuild just make sure to do a TON of research before buying parts and make sure a machine shop gives it a clean bill of health. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 12, 2012 I Donated Share Posted October 12, 2012 This is not true. When rebuilding a shortblock, it is not mandatory to increase the displacement with larger pistons/cylinders. It is if the rod has been scraping against the cylinder walls and there is scoring. How else are you going to clean up the scoring? And how are you going to get good compression and prevent oil consumption if you leave the scoring? I think you are confusing line boring the case, which will require larger bearings which has nothing to do with the size of the cylinders/pistons. No, I'm definitely not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripemeat Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 It is if the rod has been scraping against the cylinder walls and there is scoring. How else are you going to clean up the scoring? And how are you going to get good compression and prevent oil consumption if you leave the scoring? No, I'm definitely not. rod scraping against the walls, WTF? the OP has rod knock, rod knock isn't the rod literally hitting anything other than it's own bearing. it's the rod bearings with bored out of spec clearances from lack of lubrication, the sheered-away bearing material causes a gap and that gap is where the rod bangs back and forth against the crankshaft. if there's bad enough scoring on the cyl wall, sometimes a hone isnt enough and you do need to bore it out. broken ringlands, excessive detonation, zero lubrication, improperly seated/installed rings, and debris cause the scoring, not rod knock. with the OP's scenario, he can likely do a quick hone and put new pistons in if he wanted to. Although I think he should just get a new block all together since its easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 How many miles on original engine? Oil changed regularly. I wonder why all of sudden it decided to rod knock on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Water in the oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volodyalysak Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share Posted October 14, 2012 Water in the oil Why would it make noise like it is a rod knock ?? And i drove already for like 15 miles after that happened, all water should be out of the system if i had any. i have a quote for 2 K to have engine fully rebuilt with stock parts, new pistons rods, bearings etc . I guess if "water " in the system does not get out by monday i'll rebuilt the engine and be happy for another 100K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 14, 2012 I Donated Share Posted October 14, 2012 Why would it make noise like it is a rod knock ?? And i drove already for like 15 miles after that happened, all water should be out of the system if i had any. i have a quote for 2 K to have engine fully rebuilt with stock parts, new pistons rods, bearings etc . I guess if "water " in the system does not get out by monday i'll rebuilt the engine and be happy for another 100K I think that he was saying water in the oil could cause rod knock, due to the fact that water is not very good at lubricating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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