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22T or 20G?


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Yeah, time for a new job! ;)

 

I've been looking around for 205 heads and the cheapest set I have found is $500. Since I will need all the other parts that go on a 205 (intake mani and all it's bits, a/c, alternator, coilpacks, water cross over pipe) my best bet may to buy a JDM 205 complete engine from ebay like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-02-04-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-EJ20-Turbo-Engine-EJ20T-Forester-Motor-EJ205D-/190741870696?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6919f868&vxp=mtr.

 

It will most likely be cheaper than sourcing all the parts individually, and then I could sell the shortblock for $500-700 or whatever to recoup some of the cost. Sound good? :)

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Just take offs. I've been searching NASIOC and some local websites. The cheapest set I have found locally was $650. This is what makes me want to just get a JDM 205 like I posted above.

 

I found a set of '03 OB 2.5 heads w/intake mani for $300 (http://www.ksl.com/?nid=218&ad=21786328&cat=&lpid=&search=subaru) about three hours away, but I don't know if they would work for my build.

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Sent the guy a pm for some more details. Guess I missed that one, lol.

 

edit: subikid, I looked up Pauter rods. $900 a set!!! I'll stick with stock internals, lol. I'll get the machine shop to go over the 22T crank and make sure it is good. Judging by the condition of the bearings I'd hope it is in good shape. Any updates on the coffee can? ;)

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I was offered some used (low mileage) wiseco pistons and 257 rods locally. I'm waiting to hear back about details regarding the pistons and price. From my research the 22T and 257 rods are the same length (130.5 mm) and the 257 rods use a 40 mm journal so they fit on the 22T crank just fine and will not change piston block height. The 257 rods are thicker and wider at the base compared to the 22T rods.

 

I also read that the strokes were different. How they are different I don't know. I'm still learning the implications of such differences so any explanations are welcomed and I'll keep researching.

 

I am posting a pic is a pic I found on FuijiK's build journal on mnsubaru without his permission but I would hope that he wouldn't mind: http://mnsubaru.com/threads/fujis-journal-gf8f5sd-project.24073/

 

What do you think? A good simple upgrade from the stock rod?

rod22t.thumb.jpg.e7547f5dfef880a369f638e49b19c0a6.jpg

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Heard back about the pistons. They are .020 oversized ($200) so I would need to machine the block so I'll pass on them. However, the 257 rods are $75 obo. I'm confused though, if the 257 rods are the same length as the 22T rods how can the strokes be different?
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Heard back about the pistons. They are .020 oversized ($200) so I would need to machine the block so I'll pass on them. However, the 257 rods are $75 obo. I'm confused though, if the 257 rods are the same length as the 22T rods how can the strokes be different?

 

The crank is different (257 has a higher "throw").

The rods in the 22T are forged too (the 22E uses identical rods but w/ slightly thinner piston pins & they have been reported to share the exact same strength & resistance under tension as the 22T rods.)

Not sure if the 257 rods are forged but they should be a bit thicker in width than the 22T (this would mean that the piston pins to a 257 are thicker too.)

You'd have to do some side by side photo shoots to confirm.

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OK, that makes a lot of sense about the stroke difference. Fuji K on nasioc told me that I could install the 257 rods and everything else would remain the same.

 

The good deal on the wiseco pistons has me wondering what benefits I would get from installing them and machining the cylinders. I would lose a little bit of sleeve thickness but I don't think that would compromise the strength of the sleeves by much. Of course I would see a slight increase in cylinder volume. But would it be worth the cost of machining the cylinders for the slight increase in volume? What gains would I get? A little more power?

 

Thanks for putting up with all my n00bish questions fellas.

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