monkeyposeur Posted October 5, 2012 Author Share Posted October 5, 2012 Yes, I am planning on keeping the stock 22T crank. I am stoked to pull out the crank and I will ask them to check it. I have the FSM, if it has the numbers for clearances is that what I should use as my guide? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99legacyturbo Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Well you Should measure your crank and compare it to stock measurements to make sure it didn't wear at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 11, 2012 Author Share Posted October 11, 2012 I put the 22T down in the basement where I can work on it. The WRX heads route is probably the way I am going to go with this build. If the wrx ecu is tunable why would I even want to consider using a standalone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Stand alone systems are not needed if you do the WRX ECU swap, unless you plan to do something wild, and even then you can probably get away with the WRX ECU. For HC and SC builds they tend to be a better route to, but for turbos the WRX ECU is just fine. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 If you're doing that, you will need the WRX crank gear too. 0.2 cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Yeah, stay with the WRX ECU. Much less of a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 Thanks for all the great info guys. It is nice to finally have a plan. Since I am going the WRX route maybe I can upgrade my gauge cluster while I am at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 Gonna pull the trigger on a WRX harness and ecu tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 Sweet! look forward to the build! Btw the parts for the intake showed up finally, I am going to mock it up this week I hope. I want to find someone local with an SS to mock it up to just to be sure it fits perfect. If you know anyone let me know. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 I don't know anyone out there with an SS. That's good to hear about the SS intake subikid. I want to do each mod on the SS one at a time that way I can judge how it actually changes the performance. First I'll install the coffee can intake and see how it does, then the XT tmic, and lastly the TD04. Then I'll be done with engine mods on it for a while. Maybe down the road I'll put some 20G heads on it. The wrx ecu & harness are on their way. The harness consists of a complete dash harness and engine harness. Since I will have the complete dash harness that means I will be able to swap in a wrx gauge cluster with a few simple modifications. I'll start looking for 205 heads next month. I want to do a TGV delete w/phenolic spacers and upgrade the oil pump. I am debating whether to keep the SS oil pickup or upgrade to a killer bee pickup. It would be fun to split the block and use ARP bolts, but that's probably unecessary and very expensive, lol. Once I gather enough parts I'll start a build thread. edit: I am wondering if I can use the 22T water cross over pipe, and hard coolant lines, etc. Or will I need to use the corresponding 205 bits? What I really need is a trashed wrx longblock for parts, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 You want to do the killerbee upgrade, no question about it. You will need a 257 oil pan though. I believe you want the 205 crossover pipe. Pretty much you need everything from a 205 but the short block. I want to do the sti cluster conversion, sweeping gauges ftw! -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 Killerbee it is then. This is going to be a fun build. I love the sweeping gauges too, ha ha. I took my neighbor's rental '11 Forester on a joyride while I was house sitting and it did the sweepy thing. I was wondering if you could wire up an sti cluster. Is it possible to do w/wrx bits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Yes just look into the sti swap for bugeyes, there are diy's on nasioc iirc It would be horrible to build a motor then have the pickup tube crack on you and blow a rod or spin a bearing. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 I am going to start the process of splitting the block. I came upon this suggestion for splitting the block on rs25: "after you take the pistons out and ALL of the bolts holding the block together. Slide a long extension, like 18inches long (or a long peice of metal), through the wrist pin access holes while passing through the small end of the rods. Do this on both sides of the block. After doing this, spin the crank with a 22mm socket on the crank bolt. the block will EASILY split in half. No hammering." Does this sound like a good idea? It seems like it would work great, but I would worry that it could possibly do damage to something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 That should work fine. Dont forget the bolt under the windage tray and the other below the rear main seal. I use a rubber mallet and just tap it apart when it is sitting right side up on a table. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 I won't. I'll use my rubber mallet first and see it if works. This writeup by reddevil on rs25 lays it all out: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/74366-tearing-down-ejxx-block-pictures-head-removal-splitting-block-3.html Reddevil is pretty cool. He installed a SC on his first gen, lol. Splitting the block now has me thinking whether I should install fancy internals, ha ha. I'm not looking for monster hp numbers though, so it may not be worth it but it sure would be fun to know that they are in there. What would be the 'dream internals' for this build? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 I ran into a bit of trouble removing the last few block bolts on the driver's side. I may have rounded one of the 12 pt 12 mm bolts that is located next to the cooling jacket. It was getting late and I was receiving complaints from the wife that the 'clanking' gave her a headache. Of course it was the last bolts that will cause a problem. This is all the more reason to use ARP bolts when I put it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Best lower end IMO JE custom pistons Pauter +4mm rods 08+ EJ257 Crank King main and rod bearings I think the long rod EJ22T would make an awesome motor, mine is currently a +2mm long rod motor. That should only set you back $3k lol -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 For what you're getting that's pretty fair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 Well, I have some time to decide if I will stick with the stock internals. It's tempting to replace them, but from some build threads that I have read they are fully capable of pushing more than enough hp for my purposes. fujik over on NASIOC used the 22t internals with his 02 wrx setup and got 280 hp or something. That's more than enough power for me since I don't want to kill myself, lol. I was able to get the last block bolts off. I almost rounded one of the 12 pt bolts but luckily I was able to get it out with some hammering on the socket to seat it better. The bolt head had a lot of coolant build up on it. I pulled the wrist pins and pistons out and started to whack the block apart. I got it to separate about .5 mm in the the front and about .2 in the back. That was after whacking it for a good 30 minutes with a rubber mallet. I tried putting two long rods through the wrist pin holes and turning the crank to split it. It didn't do a damn thing and I think that it is dangerous since the rods are pushing against the hex bolt threads and it damages them. It was getting late and I was tired of hammering it so I blasted the seam with PB and I'll work on it some more tomorrow. At least it is moving so I should be able to get it apart eventually. There is a little bit of surface rust and a tiny bit of scoring from one or two of the pistons so I will get the piston bores honed and the block decked and cleaned before I put the internals back in. Of course I will replace all of the bearings and piston rings and check the clearances, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 HP != killing yourself Unless referring to hit points. Then higher is better, because 0 HP means means you'd die So in summary The more HP the better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 Lol. I split teh block today. It took longer than it should since I forgot to remove two block bolts after whacking it for a while. The bearings look clean. Next up I'll get it hot tanked and decked and honed. You can see one of the oil squirters has fallen out. I never saw it in the oil pan or anything. I'll probably plug them up so more oil goes where it is most needed. Maybe I'll get custom pistons, at the very least... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 What type of oil pump should I go with? SS oil pump wrx, STi? Also I was wondering about if I decided to go with the stroker build what would be so great about it? More torque? Would it be faster from a stop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 What type of oil pump should I go with? SS oil pump wrx, STi? Also I was wondering about if I decided to go with the stroker build what would be so great about it? More torque? Would it be faster from a stop? 11mm or 12mm STi pump definitely. Same for the water pump. I have an 11mm STi oil pump & 25D water pump for my EJ22. You want the peace of mind since EJ heads are starved for oil the moment the car turns a corner Stroker builds are usually done to gain more off-the-line performance (early TQ). Even 10.5% more displacement will be beneficial throughout the whole powerband. The EJ25 crank might by heavier than the one in EJ22T, so the engine may not spin up to speed as fast but the extra weight may also contribute to TQ delivery. Are you building this engine with forged rods & pistons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 If I go the stroker route I will get forged rods and pistons. It will add a lot more cost to the build, not only in the parts themselves but the additional machining costs. It all adds up and my current job pays terribly, although it is rewarding work. I'm just getting a few parts as I save up month to month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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