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totalled subie... now insurance is lowballing me for the value!


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It's a 2006 subie legacy, and it was a minor front end accident. I drove it 20 miles to the auto shop after so I know it can't be that bad. However the adjuster says there was frame damage etc totalling more than 10k of work and they want to total it.. Then they offer me like 2k below bluebook . Can i actually get what the car is worth? Can I argue the amount that is offered?
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Go to 3 dealers and get written quotes for what they would sell your car in its previous condition.

 

Back when I was in college, my parents had to do this for a car (99 Civic Si :rolleyes: ) stolen from their driveway.

 

Yea do this. I had to do it for my 98 prelude that got stolen and my 04 RSX that I rolled. They ended up giving me more than what I paid for for both cars. But I had to fight to give kbb price plus my rims on the prelude.

 

 

Sometimes you can buy the car back for a very low amount from your insurance and you can either fix the car your self or part it out.

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Whenever you get frame damage, insurance companies run scared. They often have policies regarding the replacement of suspension components with %100 new parts. Which are much more expensive than perfectly good used junkyard bits.
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but i loveeeee frame damage.

 

These adjusters idea of frame damage is skewed minor frame damage could mean 100 things. Sometimes its easier for them to total and like the guy above poster use the parts for other legacy fixes at a cut rate. YOu know that whole clause about Used or Aftermarket parts in your quote :lol: I would get the as-is condition looked at and see just how "driveable" it is sometimes it might drive but under the sheet metal you can keep the toe in it or youll never be able to get is aligned just right.

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Hey guys, sorry for the late reply, here are some shitty cell phone pics of the damage. Basically the airbags didn't deploy because the bumper went under the 92 honda accord that I hit, somehow lol. Most of the damage was to the bumper and hood, and I know the power steering is messed because it was leaking fluid. Also KBB for this car is like 12300 for excellent condition, they offered me 10.5. I'm going to try and get at least 11.8 or so, with a 500 deductible. I also just put brand new continental all weather tires on it seriously 5 days ago, which sucks. Here are the pics :http://imgur.com/a/L45Ma
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First pic seems to be bad.

 

But the damage seems to not be too bad. Are you sure it's the power steering? The AC condenser can leak some oil, and if it's an AT it can be the oil cooler. Of course it can still be the power steering - like the reservoir.

 

I suggest that you try to get an estimation on cost to fix it.

453747.png
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I just fixed my neighbours 04 wrx with similar damage

It even jumped a tooth on the timming belt.

One place wanted 8k to fix it

 

I took it apart and straitened the rad support new rad condenser fans hood bumper bumper beam and 2 fenders.

He got a jdm front clip for 900$ with hid head lights rads everything

 

And 800$ for another guy to paint and fix some rust on a rear 1/4 panel.

And 500$ for me.

 

So FYI

 

And I don't thing there is any or much frame damage from that

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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insurance doesn't go off kbb value, they go off what comperable cars are selling for in your area, and they don't check things like options so that could be the dfference (i.e. if you have a limited they could give you the base value instead if that's whats selling lcoaly). You have to prove to them what your car is worth, look on autotrader and local classifeids and find comperable cars and show your insurance what they are selling for, they will give you this average.
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Look at NADA values?

 

 

As others have stated, print out more than enough ads for the exact same car or similar car to yours and politely explain that you wouldn't be able to replace your car with their initial offer.

 

The info is out there, so just don't settle thinking that it's your only option.

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The guy said to come back to him with some dealer quotes from auto trader, cars.com for subarus of the same year or +1 year, no older. Interesting part though was that he said that trim didn't matter, so I'm going to go back to him with GT limited prices, since it was a 2.5. We'll see how it goes. I guess they like to just total them, then auction them off where used cars dealerships that specialize in this stuff pick them up, fix them and resell them. Kinda sketchy lol.
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When debating the engine rebuild on mine at 86,000 miles, I called USAA and asked about this exact scenario. They said if I scanned the receipts and could produce them, they would depreciate the engine of the vehicle separate from the chassis.

 

That being said, I have no specific rider on the policy, so they could screw me if they so choose. They have been flawless to work with in the past and gave me an obnoxious sum for roof and siding replacement on my house.

No, the name has nothing to do with bragging about 20 inch wheels...
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Please note the following information only applies to legitimate insurance companies. If you have The General or Mike's Bait, Tackle, and Auto Insurance, they may not apply.

 

1. Read your policy - if you are attempting to use your policy for an accident claim you are obligated to abide by the terms you agreed to when taking out the policy. Everything should be buried in there. Most states also have regulations specific to just about everything insurance companies can and can't do. If the policy you purchased says you must take whatever they come up with, you don't have a lot of room to argue. Don't get mad when someone tries to enforce something you have previously agreed to.

If your policy says they can use aftermarket repair parts, that's what they are going to do. Don't buy the policy if you aren't ok with that.

 

2. Insurance companies never gain by selling salvage vehicles. They don't sell them to dealers, they sell them to auction companies that sell vehicles for salvage. 9 times out of 10 they would rather fix your car than salvage it.

 

3. Do not bother looking at KBB, KBB is easily the most inaccurate way to value a car. You would never pay KBB for a car at a dealer and you could never sell a car for KBB value. Most insurance companies use a regionalized version of NADA which monitors the actual selling prices of cars within your area - as in Mid Atlantic, New England, Central states, etc. You do not have access to these numbers without paying a subscription service - you may also need to be a LLC.

 

4. Most average people would be much better off not buying back their car after it is totaled. No matter how well the car is repaired it will have a branded title and will never be worth anywhere near the value a non salvaged car would be. Also, a salvage car will instantly be totaled by any insurance company again if involved in another accident and you won't get enough to fix it or replace it.

 

5. Be realistic about the value of your car. It is worth way more to you than anyone else. Your Legacy is an amazing car to everyone on this board. But to Nancy-two-kids on the street it's just another midsized Japanese car. Rarity and JDM parts don't add value to the car on an open market outside this forum.

 

6. Finally, as I always tell everyone who will listen: shop for new rates every 6 months. You gain nothing by sticking with the same insurance company year after year. You can also save money by un-bundling. You are not guaranteed to save money by combining your home, auto, and motorcycle insurance. I check rates every 6 months and almost every time I can get rates drastically cheaper than who I am currently with.

 

Disclosure: Former Progressive adjuster in VA, MD, DC for 2 agonizing years - specialized in complex coverage claims. Rules in your state likely vary.

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Great info landark, really appreciate it. The thing that was surprising to me is that when they asked for quotes for cars around my area, they didn't care about trim level. With the legacy's the GT's are much more expensive and worth more than anything else, not sure if they realized this or not seeing as how my legacy was just a 2.5i. We will see when they get back to me with the counter. How much can you argue before they get fed up and don't give more value? Do they ever go back down on the value they give?
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My before pic. bought after hit deer on highway. self fixed after pic. Not driving yet but a good reference that it doesnt seem that bad.

 

http://s10.postimage.org/3y6sl24ud/2012_09_09_18_28_59.jpg

 

http://s10.postimage.org/kv5ioc83p/photo.jpg

 

i would try for 12500 and buy it back for 500 or less sell it to me as is for 750. ;)

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