PoManzAWD Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Good idea. Something to try anyway. Now that I think about it, maybe twice the idle speed on my 2012 2.5i CVT blipped so low for a second the engine shuddered, but then perked right back up. IIRC, it was after taking off after a cold start. I doubt this has anything to do with the CVT though. The CVT has a torque converter just like any other automatic trans. If the TC isn't unlocking at a stop you've got huge issues. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Stop driving with a boner. That is all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMVirostek Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 It happens sporadically when I push in the clutch and I let the rpms go all the way down. Usually when coming to a stop. Only with the AC on. In fact, the AC takes A LOT out of the 2.5i Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minuccims Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Interesting, the 2.5 GT bumps up the idle 150-200 RMPs when the AC is in demand. No issues at all like the ones reported on the 2.5i. Too bad there is no AP; idle adjustment is one of several tweaks. Maybe the RPMs are too low, it takes a few ECU checks to raise the RPMs and make whatever else adjustments (10-20 sec). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoManzAWD Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Interesting, the 2.5 GT bumps up the idle 150-200 RMPs when the AC is in demand. No issues at all like the ones reported on the 2.5i. Too bad there is no AP; idle adjustment is one of several tweaks.... The a/c kicking on/off is completely non-detectible on my 2012 2.5i CVT. Absolutely no idle speed change, no vibs, etc. I can't even feel a power loss, but I'm typically the only one in it. You'd probably feel it with a cabin full of people. This is one of the few vehicles I've owned where you cant feel/hear an idle change when the compressor kicks in. The engine doesn't struggle either. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awalegacy Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 The a/c kicking on/off is completely non-detectible on my 2012 2.5i CVT. Absolutely no idle speed change, no vibs, etc. I can't even feel a power loss, but I'm typically the only one in it. You'd probably feel it with a cabin full of people. This is one of the few vehicles I've owned where you cant feel/hear an idle change when the compressor kicks in. The engine doesn't struggle either. Joel Would the car even move with a cabin full of people??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoManzAWD Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 2. How would it take only 2.5 hours? In order to adjust the valves, you need to re-shim them, which involves taking off the valve covers and cams, which is very hard to do without pulling the engine, which takes way more than 2.5 hours. I think your mechanic took you for a ride. That's what I thought too, but in fact the 2010-2012 SOHC EJ253 2.5i's have been basically unchanged for decades. Simple jamb-nut lash adjustment. Simple hand tools and some time is all it takes. The DOHC engines are the ones with the replaceable buckets for lash adjustment. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted September 9, 2012 I Donated Share Posted September 9, 2012 Iiiiiinteresting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markdh720 Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 My 2.5i CVT was having a day that sounds similar. I'd come to a stop and the idle would drop and the car would shudder. The AWD light would light up for a moment, then the car would be fine until the next time I stopped. It happened all the way between work and the hour drive to the dealer. They looked at me like an asshole and sent me on my way. They said the reflashed the CPU. The idle will still occasionally drop and the car will shudder. No lights come in and it has never stalled. I'll say something again at every service I have them perform. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlyCurran88 Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Adjusted the valves , but it still does it! Seems like the issue is getting worse. CVT fluid is going to be $140 then labor, and it could possibly kill the transmission. I also heard that throttle bodies are junk but not sure what to try first! Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoManzAWD Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Adjusted the valves , but it still does it! Seems like the issue is getting worse. CVT fluid is going to be $140 then labor, and it could possibly kill the transmission. I also heard that throttle bodies are junk but not sure what to try first! Any ideas? Were any of the valve clearances out of tolerance? I have to doubt they were. Why would changing the CVT fluid kill the trans? Was this told to you by a Subaru service dept? They're the only ones that (might) have any experience with the Aisin chain drive CVTs that the 2010+ Subarus have. You have to use the correct CVT fluid for them. It's gotta be for Aisin built chain-drive CVTs, NOT belt drive CVTs like most of them are. I don't know that the electronic throttle bodies are junk on these cars. These same components have been mainstream for more than a decade now. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlyCurran88 Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Yes they advised against changing it but could not say why the car is doing what it's doing. The Subaru CVT fluid is what I'm getting. $10.75 a quart and about 13 quarts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minuccims Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Look it up but I think the manual says to replace CVT fluids @ 30k under harsh driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoManzAWD Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Yes they advised against changing it but could not say why the car is doing what it's doing. The Subaru CVT fluid is what I'm getting. $10.75 a quart and about 13 quarts It's too bad they can't pin-point the issue here. I have my doubts on the amount of CVT fluid too. Total system capacity is like ~16qts. I'm sure a drain and fill would be a fraction of that. Probably more like 4-5qts max. The rest is held in the system and torque converter. I hope they plan on doing 2-3 drain/fill cycles with the 13qts you're paying for. I doubt they'll do a "flush" unless there's a clear procedure in the service manual. Generally if the trans has drain and fill plugs like the CVT does, it's not intended to be cooler line flushed. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slizan99 Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 I would start with a throttle plate cleaning and idle relearn. Has the vehicle had all the ecm reflashes performed? edit: I see that you cleaned the throttle already. was it gummed up? did you get the edges of the plate super clean? what procedure did you use for idle relearn? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoManzAWD Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Given there hasn't been any codes set with this problem, it could be a simple as bad fuel or a fuel pump/pressure problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlyCurran88 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share Posted October 4, 2012 It is a bad torque converter. $$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 4, 2012 I Donated Share Posted October 4, 2012 Ouch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoManzAWD Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 It is a bad torque converter. $$$ Says who? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 It is a bad torque converter. $$$ Wouldn't that be a warranty issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 5, 2012 I Donated Share Posted October 5, 2012 72,000 miles = out of warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlyCurran88 Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Just to update, I know it's been a few years but I do get messages. Subaru could not tell me 100% that it was the torque converter. I decided to bring the vehicle to auction and let someone else deal with it rather than blow any more money on it. Hopefully they sold it to someone with a good aftermarket warranty! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wharf Rat Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 My dealer tells me that one of the only two CVT's they have seen fail failed in exactly this manner. Fyi. I had my fluid done at 50k just because I don't believe that anything is nonservicable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnthonyArmato Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 This is an old thread... Didn't read all the posts but this is what happened to my '11 and the dealer claimed it was the CVT. Had it replaced and it did fix the stalling. Glad I had an extended warranty. Mine went around 78k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
computersoc Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 I've been having a similar issue with my 2012, granted it's not to the extent of your problem but I've had few times at the light where I'll roll to a stop and idle fine for about 10-20 seconds then get a quick shudder then back to normal. I can get this to repeat on a normal basis when stopped on a hill here in town that has a 15-20 degree grade to it. Pull up to the light, brake, 15-20 seconds and I'll get a quick hesitation then back to normal idle. On one occasion I got a quick check engine light but never threw a code when checked by the dealer and their explanation was that I was letting the car roll back on the CVT, which I don't but they recommended using the "hill holder" function to prevent that. I tried it, didnt work so now I'm at a loss as to whats up with my car as well. Might be a similar problem so I'll be watching this one. I get the same issue. I hope this doesn't mean the CVT will die at 60001 miles. I can't replicate it though. Happens once a month I'd say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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