turboslo89 Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 hey, so my timing jumped on my 98 EJ22, and now i have no compression on cylinders 1 & 3 and 110 psi on 2 and 80 psi on 4. I replaced the timing belt and re-timed the engine (first time doing it). Went to crank the engine and still had zero compression on the same cylinders. Sooooo i'm gonna say that I bent a valve, which sucks because the engine was in perfect shape, and it happened at less than 1k rpms as i was reversing the car and it just died so I didn't think I could have done that much damage. Either way..... I'm trying to figure out which engines will drop right in, like year ranges and what not. I can't find a ej22 in the exact year range for any decent price in any junkyards near me so i'm online shopping but want to make sure I'm covering all my options. I found a 1994 ej22 but I know that's a different obd and don't want to mess with wiring and sensors and what not. Help me know what i can just drop in? Please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 27, 2012 I Donated Share Posted August 27, 2012 Did you bother to read the FAQ threads? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2nd-gen-engine-faq-turbos-mpg-engine-builds-engine-swaps-167968.html -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 yes i did, i paged through that thread but all i see is "these engines CAN BE FITTED into your..." i dont want to know what can be FITTED, i want to know which ones can be dropped right in. I have a SOHC and a single port exhaust which i'm not sure if that means anything special, i just know i had a hell of a time finding exhaust gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 27, 2012 I Donated Share Posted August 27, 2012 Any 95-99 EJ22 -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 he meant 95 - 98 ej22 engine. the 99 ej22 is a phase 2 engine and will not swap easily. don't try. actually you can use any 90 - 98 ej22 engine if you use your intake manifold. it isn't absolutely required for the 95/6 - 98, but it does/ will eliminate one vac line issue. EDIT: 90 - 96 are non interference. but 90 - 95 will require the dual port exhaust y-pipe that matches the 'new' engine. but you are going to spend about $500 on an engine, maybe less. why not just pull the head and have the valves replaced. or buy a replacement head, ~$100. but first, since this was your FIRST subaru timing belt, are you SURE you used the correct timing marks? NOT the ARROWS, NEVER the ARROWS. it is pretty rare to get ZERO compression with bent valves. it sounds like the timing is off. maybe bent valves as well, but double check the timing. http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg240/johnceggleston/timingbeltdiagram.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 ya, well my biggest issue was finding the mark on the crank sprocket, but i eventually took off the t-belt guide and found the mark on the back set of gears on the crank pulley, and then i aligned it to the only mark i could find, which was on the housing/mount area for the crank position sensor. The camshaft sprockets hads marks on the outer edges/lips of the sprocket and they were already marked over with white. My only worry was the crank sprocket mark was the wrong one, but i couldn't find any clear concise info on the crank sprocket, everything just said "line up the marks" there was 3 circle indents on the sprocket and an arrow on the edge by one of the teeth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 the double check for the crank sprocket is if the key way is straight down in the 6 oclock position. it sounds like you got it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 If you ended up bending valves, it's really not a bad job to pull the heads. I had a buddy help me do the timing belt job, and he overtightened the tensioner to a point where he stripped the threads, but the asshat didn't tell me. Started to drive, and a mile down the road the tensioner pops off. I spent a day rebuilding the engine afterward, and with all the right parts, it worked out easier than I expected. Pulling the piece of aluminum that the tensioner bolts to (because it was stripped) was a pain though... If you're mechanically inclined enough to do the timing system, replacing valves won't be bad. Just take your time, have all the parts ready, and torque everything down properly. IIRC I think I got away with it for <$60; with that said, zero compression sounds like the timing's off, not bent valves. But hey, if you went through it and double-checked, then who am I to say what's right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 well im not gonna act like i'm completely sure that i did bend a valve, none of it makes any sense as the car was running completely fine, then this happens at less than 1k rpm as im backing up the car. I thought i snubbed it but then it wouldn't start a buddy suggested i do a leak down test but I don't have the resources to do that in my garage nor can i take it anywhere. I'll check the timing again tonight and see if i did mess up the timing somehow. Thanks for all the help guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 So i just double checked the timing and everything still seems to be legitimate, i took the belt off, recompressed the tensioner and realigned everything and put the belt back on (which is ridiculously difficult). Cranked it over and still have zero compression on cylinder 1.....a bent valve is seemingly closer everytime i mess with this car... any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 so update, i found an ej22 from a 1995 legacy within a couple hours drive of me for a good price.....will this engine drop right in and plug up to all my sensors? or might i have to change something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 the most important thing is EGR. if your 98 has it (usually auto trans cars) then you need it on the 95 (usually auto trans cars). if you don't need it then it does not matter if the 95 has it. second, the 95 will have dual port exhaust heads so you need the matching exhaust y-pipe. the ones from the outback, all ej25 engines 96 - 99, are the same as well as ej22 from 90 - 95.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 but you are going to spend about $500 on an engine, maybe less. why not just pull the head and have the valves replaced. or buy a replacement head, ~$100. This is the way I would go. Your block is probably fine and you know its history. If you just want to drop in a replacement engine without working it over that may cause you even more problems down the road. You will have to pull your engine if you are replacing it anyway (although it is possible to replace your heads with the engine in the bay, not the easiest method). And while your engine is out you can replace many other seals as a preventative measure. Of course you may be limited by time, money, etc. Putting the timing belt on may feel ridiculously hard the first time or two, but it gets a lot easier. Just follow the correct order from the FSM. Also, if your engine is out replacing timing components is not as hard since you have such great access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 ^this too. if you've had the car for a little while, you'll know the history of the engine a little better than if you pick up a whole different piece from an older car. if it comes to pulling your engine too, and you have the time/resources/money/other dd, then definitely go through and check gaskets or other wear items. was it zero compresson on 1 only? or any others? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 Well, i just bought a wrx and am selling this car, then this happens like 4 days after i buy my wrx. So i'm not in a hurry but would like to drop the least amount of time and money into this car to put it back on the road safely. I thought about doing a head swap but my fear is there is more damage inside then i know. Plus like you said you have to pull the motor either way, and this one had a mysterious oil leak that i cant figure out, plus heads will be like $100 for em say, then the gasket set through my work (auto parts store) is like $300, so i'm at $400, when i found a whole engine for less with a couple K miles less than mine has.... Yes compression was zero on cylinders 1 and 3 (one side only) ^^ my timing doesnt look like that either, my tensioner is 1 piece that is tensioner and pulley together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 Now, With this ej22 out of a 95 legacy i found, mine doesn't have an egr valve, but this one does? is there a way around that? egr delete maybe? This engine is better than what i was expecting to find and a really hard deal to pass up so I'd like to figure this out if possible. By the way Thanks for all the help/responses, it's great to know I have somewhere to turn to if all my diagnostic/mechanical abilities fail me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 the EGr is a non-issue since your car does not need it. it will be there but the ecu will not be looking for it or any info from it. and there are not any wires or hoses that connect to the EGR from the engine bay or firewall. it is all self contained on the engine. so just get the dual port exhaust y-pipe that matches the 95 ej22 and swap it in. do not swap your intake or you will have to plug the hole on the rear of the driver side head where the EGR connects. there will be 2 small metal lines on the front of the 95 near the top radiator hose, either plug them or make a ''u'' shaped hose and connect them back to each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 Alright, sounds like a plan. Everuthing seems to be lining up with this motor, just waiting to hear back on a final price for the motor then the swap will be done in a day or so. Thanks for all the help guys!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylormac1993 Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Honestly, I'd just replace the valves. If you have to pull the engine anyway, and you're going to at least put new gaskets and stuff on the new engine, you could just as easily pull the engine, replace the valves and whatever else you want, then put it back. Worst case scenario: you pull the engine, take the heads off, and everything is decimated beyond repair for some reason. Then you get a new engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylormac1993 Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 "Mechanically, you can bolt up any EJ series engine to any EJ series transmission, and drop the two into any car that was designed with any EJ series engine." - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2nd-gen-engine-faq-turbos-mpg-engine-builds-engine-swaps-167968.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted September 2, 2012 Author Share Posted September 2, 2012 UPDATE: So i bought a new motor for it, got a snag of a deal, ended up having less miles than what I have currently, plus i got to see the donor car and match up numbers so its all good. BUT; I'm trying to find a clear vacuum hose routing diagram for the 1995 2.2 motor, and i'm having difficulties, I was so excited to get going that i pulled the old motor, swapped everything over, now i have it on the hoist and i'm trying to figure out where all the vacuum lines go before i drop it in. ALSO: Can i just plug the EGR lines on the valve seeing as my old motor didn't have EGR, or do i need to do something special with the outlets on the valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 iirc, any of the hoses and wires going to the EGR are all self contained on the intake. so i would just leave it alone and not touch it. did you remove the intake manifold when you pulled the engine? as for the rest of the vac line routing, there are only a couple of places it leaves the engine and goes the chassis. one is the front of the 95 near the top rad hose. there are 2 metal lines for the charcoal canister. your 98 has the canister in the rear. in stall a ''U'' shaped hose and connect them to each opther. second is the passenger side rear of the intake . 2 small vac hoses come off the engine and go to the passenger strut tower, to devices. on the 95 engine / car there was a hose for each device. on the 98 there is one hose from the engine to the first device and then a short jumper hose to the second device. this means you have an extra hose to deal with. either buy a ''TEE'' and tie it into the other hose or just plug it. as long as the devices on the strut tower are connected to one of them you should be ok. the third place is the intake plenum and larger hoses. two, one each valve cover to the air box at the throttle body and one to the IAC from under the plenum between the filter box and the throttle body. this one is often left off since it is hard to see underneath. the hose routing diagram on the hood will help, you just need to adapt the 95 hoses to the 98 chassis. it is'nt hard. just don't miss any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted September 2, 2012 Author Share Posted September 2, 2012 Okay, so lastly, would a exhaust manifold from a 2000guy 2.5rs work with this manifold? A buddy of mine has one that i would like to get Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 as long as they are both dual port, and 3 bolts it should fit. they have been using the same dual port y-pipe 90 - 04. and i assume beyond, but i'm not familiar with newer models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboslo89 Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 well update, i got the new engine in and mostly hooked up. Started it up real quick last night then shut it off, but it started. Kinda loud without an exhaust but that'll hopefully be fixed today. Funny thing, i was looking at my vacuum diagram and there is a vacuum hose that comes of the purge solenoid and says it goes to charcoal canister, but I don't have a charcoal canister so I'm quite confused. I'm going to assume that the previous owner removed it and rerouted the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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