Jimmy Smarter Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Hey all, A few months back I had a set of 25mm Perrin sway bars installed, both front and rear. I had them installed along with DMS solid end links. My car is an '07 Spec.B with stock springs and struts, not lowered. I noticed when articulating over things like driveway humps that the front bar sounded and felt like it was hitting the frame somewhere but I didn't figure it was a big deal. I also noticed at some point that the noise seemed to stop... lol. Well today I finally brought it back to have them take a look and it turns out the front sway bar has snapped on the mounting holes on both sides of the car! Some photos: http://i.imgur.com/NEE7e.jpg http://i.imgur.com/zG3Ru.jpg http://i.imgur.com/YinQN.jpg http://i.imgur.com/5gnlI.jpg I have no idea what to do at this point, or where the blame for this should lie.. has anyone ever seen anything like this? I purchased the bar from Fred Beans Parts and the end links I purchased directly from DMS North America. Should I just contact Perrin directly and ask if this can be replaced? The bar and the end links didn't seem to mate up perfectly flush with one another, and I have no idea if the end links are backwards or what have you... do they look like they're installed correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted August 3, 2012 Moderators Share Posted August 3, 2012 Seems like that would have to be an issue that occurred when the sways were cast (or whatever process the metal went through). "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 oh snap.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 contact fredbeans since they sold it to you and go from there could be from over tightening/under tightening, or casting problem 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Dagwood Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I feel ya, Jimmy. I broke my Cobb front bar today too, very similar endlinks (though mine broke in a totally different place). Good luck to both of us! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerseyglock Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 WOW, how fast you take corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lanaue Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 What ever happened? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Smarter Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Totally forgot I even posted this, sorry guys! I contacted Perrin and they offered to replace the bar at no cost, so that was good of them. And they offered to give me a credit to cover shipping costs to return the bar to them; they want to take a look at it I guess. I haven't shipped it back yet however. Unfortunately, they said they wouldn't warranty the bar if used with these end links again. I just contacted MSI for suggestions on how to alleviate the stress; I'm thinking along the lines of a longer bolt that mates the bar and the end link, an extra bushing and maybe some washers to space things out a little, because the bar is being pulled 'outward' by about a 1/2" and I'm assuming that stress caused it to break. He emailed me back immediately (and it's 9:30 at night so major props to him!) and informed me the end links are backwards for one thing (oops - I'll be sure to mention this to my mechanic). I'll update again (in 3 months? hopefully not! ) once I have more info.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Smarter Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Billy Dagwood - where did your bar break? You said it broke in a different place, but were the endlinks somehow involved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 I'm going to agree with BarManBean-- seems like a manufacturing issue. If the mounting holes are drilled in after they are cast, they can introduce stresses around the holes. If the bar was cast, drilled, and powdercoated , the PC process will release any additional benefits gained by the heat-treating process You'll see similar things happen on drilled brake rotors, which is why Porsche casts their rotors now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhow257415 Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Did a shop install it? If so it may have been over torqued which could stress the connection even more. Consider the stressors that SCHM1AN stated, plus less strength because of the 2 close holes (one could argue less metal, less strength), plus a potential over torque. Not a good combo at high speeds when rounding a corner! I could be wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I'm going to agree with BarManBean-- seems like a manufacturing issue. If the mounting holes are drilled in after they are cast, they can introduce stresses around the holes. If the bar was cast, drilled, and powdercoated , the PC process will release any additional benefits gained by the heat-treating process You'll see similar things happen on drilled brake rotors, which is why Porsche casts their rotors now. The bars are made from solid drawn bar, heated before being bent, and then machined, then the tabs welded on for the endlinks. Any heat-treatment would take place at this point and before powder-coating (which is done at temperatures far lower than would affect the temper on this grade of steel). I'd guess the holes are drilled in the tabs before they're welded on. It looks to me that there just isn't much tab left around the hole after drilling and it's easy for a stress fracture to occur there. The tab should be bigger. If the bar or links were clunking in use they could have been hitting or binding on something, which is a major stress-riser. Don't just ignore these clunks, check what's causing them! Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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