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Rumphy's n00b15h build thread


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I swapped in a Whiteline adjustable rear sway and it is so much fun. Others have gone with ralliteks. There is a rallitek vendor on this site than could probably hook you up. Replace the rear sway first on a wagon since that is where you need it the most.
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Struts and springs are in with 80 miles on them. So far so good. I've been lazy and haven't gotten my sways put in yet, even though it's flipping easy.. Bought an RFRB, might consider painting it if I can. Not sure if it'll look good black sandwiched between a black hood and grey bumper. Sadly, the RFRB took cash from my stereo funds, so I'll wait on that. Also, I get paid tomorrow night, so I'll order a full rotar/pad kit for all 4 wheels. Probably clean up the calipers a bit in the process, but I'm really not too worried about them.

 

Next up - intake?

 

definitely, with 170k, do the motor mounts. you could also get away with a good MSD coilpack swap for cheap; there's a thread around here about it and how to hook it up.

 

DON'T buy an aftermarket intake. you can fab one up really easy with an autozone cone filter and a MAF adaptor + gasket material. remove all of the airbox piping up until the MAF, then line up the holes for the adaptor (i drilled out a new set of holes, but it doesn't matter as long as you have gasket stuff) and throw the universal cone filter on. for $30, you've got an intake. it's no crazy cold-air-from-the-fender goodness, but it's pretty much a SRI for cheap. a bracket/foam is a good idea to keep it from rattling around, but that's all you'll need to do.

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I'm not seeing a how-to for the MSD. Surely it's not straight plug and play, right?

 

Those group N motor mounts look excellent, but I don't see that they make anything for a 4EAT. Also, unless there's someone in SoCal willing to help me out with it, there's no way I'd be able to do something like that myself.

 

I don't know enough about enough to build my own intake.. That sounds like a steal, though. 180+ for the DragonR vs 30 bucks? I might have to give it a go, might be worth it.

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I picked up everything from advance auto for the intake; originally I had pvc going to the fender and kept the stock airbox, but it's much easier to just have the maf adapter go right to the cone filter. if you want to stay as stock as possible, unhook the snorkus and all the piping forward of the airbox and you're good to go with just a panel filter. here's a stock-ish write up fwiw: http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=11765

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/eclipse-msd-coil-swap-149822.html for the msd info, and http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=9247 for a write-up. YOU WILL NEED TO FAB UP A MOUNTING PLATE/MOUNT IT SECURELY SOMEHOW (which i didn't pay attention to and was pissed when i couldn't get it to line up), as only one bolt hole lines up, and the stock bolts aren't even long enough. it's a cheap mod for a little more power and fuel economy...just make sure to do it right.

 

i don't think it should matter whether you've got an auto or manual for the motor mounts...

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Thanks for the links kaz - I'll definitely be looking back at those in the coming weeks.

 

For now, my absolute next step is brakes - they're getting bad. Thinking about getting these rotors:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280946076135

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271044842386

 

Along with some simple ceramic pads. Comments? Concerns?

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Thanks for the links kaz - I'll definitely be looking back at those in the coming weeks.

 

For now, my absolute next step is brakes - they're getting bad. Thinking about getting these rotors:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280946076135

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271044842386

 

Along with some simple ceramic pads. Comments? Concerns?

 

 

i gotta be honest man, you'll be throwing your money away with the drilled and slotted stuff. unless you have 4 pot raybestos calipers with large rotors at all corners, anything above solid blanks is a waste of money. get a set of the simple blanks and spend the money you saved on a set of hawk pads.

 

if you don't do the wrx brake swap (and unless you plan on tracking the car, it's not worth sinking more money into that), have you thought of rebuilding the calipers?

http://a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/caliperrebuild.html&category=2

it's to an a4 site, but that's where i've been the past year and a half (still miss my legacy), and some of the guys in the audi/vw world do awesome stuff. consider that encouragement; with a parts cleaner, or a toothbrush/sandpaper/stone, you can make them look new at least.

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If they are the same price as non-slotted then they definitely aren't good versions. They will look cool if that's more important than good brakes. Besides, they can't be machined.
RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles
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Unless you get some ridiculously thick blanks, most shops won't machine them anyway. There's always a spec for the minimum thickness though, so if you do go that route, check it out.

 

You DON'T want to touch the slotted/dimpled if they're the same price as blanks. It's not worth your time...there are specific patterns and finishing specs that need to be followed when the rotors are drilled and slotted so that the integrity of the disk is maintained. That's why you don't want to cheap out on a set...if you're going for looks, a clean set of blanks with new or painted calipers are always eye-catching :)

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http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/eclipse-msd-coil-swap-149822.html for the msd info, and http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=9247 for a write-up. YOU WILL NEED TO FAB UP A MOUNTING PLATE/MOUNT IT SECURELY SOMEHOW (which i didn't pay attention to and was pissed when i couldn't get it to line up), as only one bolt hole lines up, and the stock bolts aren't even long enough. it's a cheap mod for a little more power and fuel economy...just make sure to do it right.

 

i was able to mount the MSD using both top bolts, using the stock bolts. they have held up and not loosened at all for the last 15k or so miles. i have a pic of it in my smokey thread if you want to see it finished.

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unless the positioning of the mounts changed from a 95 to a 98, or if they're different froma 2.5 to a 2.2, then I'll take your word for it. I know on my 1998 2.2L I wasn't able to make it work...every orientation. nothing. it drove me crazy. I was able to get a longer bolt with a lockwasher that did the job, but I wish I had done up a plate for it. glad yours worked out
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http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b62/joelhike/IMAG0402-1.jpg

 

Put this on a couple days ago using a license plate mounting kit, worked perfectly. I think I want to dip the grille and bumper - any suggestions on color?

 

Also, yes my car is dirty as crap. There's a lot of bugs on the bay.

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i guess i got screwed with the mounting holes on my ej22 :(

 

WAIT. DO IT IN BEDLINER, that would look badass. There's a lot of OB wagons that will do the spray-on bedliner if they go and raise it/rig it for offroading. but if you go with a color, i'd leave the bumper stock and match the grill to the black of your car. just my $0.02, as i prefer to have a clean, stock looking car with killer internals. sleepers......

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